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Yes I also agree epoxy plates on rather than weld but drill crack to stop it spreading.
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Sounds like the best case then is catch it before it happens. expoxy the plates on and fill the cavity with foam.
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If Bmw does the resin after they replace the axle carrier then I suppose its a good way of preventing it in the first place.
Its good to see that by welding the cracks makes it as strong as before, but its the rust that worries me because all the rustproofing melted away with welding. With the reinforcement plates also welded in, you wont see rust untill its way too late....
I just filled as much cavities as possible with the expanding foam... Dont know if it will help!!
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Interesting
I posted a thread on cutters as im in the process of preparing the car for a few trackdays.
The Gist on there is that perhaps the Resin isnt sufficient? And is no longer BMW's answer,
Has anyone run the Resin only for a significant period of time including some trackdays to see if it holds up?
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If you havent done it, do yourself a favour and get it done, even if there are no cracks, its a huge mission to fix it if its too late.
I repaired my cars cracks this week. I think the floor should have been replaced but due to lack of skilled workshops and because I couldnt find anybody around here that has done it, I did it myself.
I got the turner plates and I did the Structure/cavity foam. Drove it with the rear seats out after letting it stand for 30hrs and heard a squeek (another crack below the rear seats) welded that up and finally its solid again...
I wish I just did the foam before all the cracks. If one mount fails it puts huge preasure on the rest untill they also fail....
I have pics to prove it.....
Left rear mount
Right Front mount
Left rear
right front
After welding

After sealant and Primer
Inside cracks where squeek came from

I am also going to fill cavity's right under the inside weld with a hard rubber compound just to be safe.
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this is just a prevention not a cure. my personal view is wait until your car is roughly 3 months off the 10 year cut off point for goodwill/new floor replacement. get it checked if you get the all clear get the injection done. most of our cars arn't ten years old till next year so your worrying about it slighly to early :thumbs:
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I wanna get this done also is it best to ask for you gareth or the famous emma?
Jez
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What is the price ELM's are doing it for as want to get mine done soon :whistle:Originally posted by s.mac View PostMines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat

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Think I'll get this done when I'm up there for a service.Sounds like good value if it does stop the cracking.They will probably all crack eventually,except for the garage queensOriginally posted by s.mac View PostMines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat

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Mines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat
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Has anybody got a price for ELM's to do it yet :whistle:
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getting done at Elms :thumbs:
not much more and get the bmw invoice and stamp of approval :beer:The injection process can be done for under £300 here
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Can we lock in a Euro price now for 2013 work ? :-DOriginally posted by alexk View PostI can get the following prices for the 3 of us :
cavity foam 83429410694 = 60 EUR
structuring foam 83420307530 = 125 EUR
10mm plug 51711906001 = 0.14 EUR
So the cost for one car is 310.14 EUR
Shipment to UK another 25 EUR
Total : 335 EUR
If more people are interested (>10) we can get a better price.
In this case I could open a new thread with the list of people that want to order.
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