Originally posted by eacmen
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Cam Bolts Broken After Replacement
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I don't think the soldering iron tip can transfer the heat to the bolt effectively. When soldering, the molten lead acted as a prefect heat transfer media between the iron tip and the object, but without the molten solder, I say less than 30% of heat transferred. A torch or heat gun or hair drier is better.
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248 loctite here with the bmw bolts. Loctite TDS datasheet says 90% strength in presence of motor oil.Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
Hey now!! I bought the Lang kit, which comes with the Red stuff so how could I possibly have made an error
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It's funny how much I over thought the Vanos job, I put the Lang bolts in 3 times, with fresh new ~$40 bolts each time! Once with non-oil resistant blue at 9 ft. Lb., then with oil resistant blue torqued to 9 ft. lbs., than finally Red oil resistant loctite torqued to 12.9 ft lbs.
That also leaves out all the other bullshit items I over-thought while I had it all apart which some of you I'm sure remember.
That particular job did teach me to just take it easy on future jobs, do it right, but don't over complicate what is a relatively easy job.
Fuel is usually the major issue for loctite.
As long as you clean the threads when installing should be fine.
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Hey now!! I bought the Lang kit, which comes with the Red stuff so how could I possibly have made an errorOriginally posted by maupineda View PostOMG! one guy did not lock it right, the other soldered it!!! People stop shooting themselves in the foot!!! LOL. Kidding!!
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It's funny how much I over thought the Vanos job, I put the Lang bolts in 3 times, with fresh new ~$40 bolts each time! Once with non-oil resistant blue at 9 ft. Lb., then with oil resistant blue torqued to 9 ft. lbs., than finally Red oil resistant loctite torqued to 12.9 ft lbs.
That also leaves out all the other bullshit items I over-thought while I had it all apart which some of you I'm sure remember.
That particular job did teach me to just take it easy on future jobs, do it right, but don't over complicate what is a relatively easy job.
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OMG! one guy did not lock it right, the other soldered it!!! People stop shooting themselves in the foot!!! LOL. Kidding!!
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For bolts this small soldering iron should make quick work of heating up the bolt enough. Depending on wattage 30-60 seconds should be enough with a large chisel tip. Just make sure you clean up the area free of oil, flashpoint of the oil is like 400F. I think loctite recommends 500F to loosen the adhesive.Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
You can try applying some heat which breaks down the loctite. Its been awhile...might have to be careful with the plastic.
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You think I can remove those bolts with the red loctite w/o breaking them? That would be preferable..Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
I have a spare set of those parts so I had mine hot tanked. That is overkill but you can pull those parts off and properly clean them
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I have a spare set of those parts so I had mine hot tanked. That is overkill but you can pull those parts off and properly clean themOriginally posted by Cubieman View PostYea, I'll bet I spent 10mins+ on each hole using various chemicals/cleaning tools to make sure the female threads were clean. That takes a while to do it correctly, you can't simply roll a q-tip around for a sec and call it good.
I found Locitie 768 cleaning solution and MEK along with some very tightly wound conical cotton q-tip like things for cleaning guns helpful. Also a dental pick was nice to get out the big pieces of old locite I had on mine as someone had already been in there.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapered-Regul...08CPU4JW&psc=1
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Yea, I'll bet I spent 10mins+ on each hole using various chemicals/cleaning tools to make sure the female threads were clean. That takes a while to do it correctly, you can't simply roll a q-tip around for a sec and call it good.
I found Locitie 768 cleaning solution and MEK along with some very tightly wound conical cotton q-tip like things for cleaning guns helpful. Also a dental pick was nice to get out the big pieces of old locite I had on mine as someone had already been in there.
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Loctite no workie if there is oil present. Not matter what kind of loctite you use.
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Yea, I dread the day I have to loosen those bolts.Originally posted by Slideways View Post
Not without a blowtorch
Changing cams is going to be extra fun
My hopes are if they won't come out in situ I could fully remove the TC tensioner and hopefully have enough slack to slip the sprockets off the hubs and then pull the cams with sleeves still installed so the bolts can be drilled out more easily.
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It's interesting to see the notches on the bolts cut by the splined sleeve. Obviously the sleeve only hammering the bolts in one direction -- CW I think. But in order to hammer the bolts, the sleeve must be running behind (slower than) the cam sometime, and then accelerated faster and hammered the bolts. The exact hammering effect was happing on the vanos disk holes by the EX hub tabs with the disk original larger holes. The modified smaller holes reduced the hammering significantly.
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Not without a blowtorchOriginally posted by Cubieman View PostRemember the Langs are grade 12.9 vs OE 8.8, I went about 12ft lbs if I recall correctly and used red oil resistant loctite.
Total overkill, wish I would have used the BMW torx bolts w/ blue 243 loctite. I may not be able to get those out down the road easily using the red.
Changing cams is going to be extra fun
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Remember the Langs are grade 12.9 vs OE 8.8, I went about 12ft lbs if I recall correctly and used red oil resistant loctite.
Total overkill, wish I would have used the BMW torx bolts w/ blue 243 loctite. I may not be able to get those out down the road easily using the red.
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