Dan's original owner '01 dual duty M3

[01M3Fan]

Lastly I had to modify the bracket at the bottom of the airbox to make enough clearance to slip on the solenoid rubber housing over the bracket tab.



Maybe what was there would have worked, but I tried to replicate the gap on the OEM airbox mount. We’ll see…

[01M3Fan]

I decided to pull the fan shroud on this job to get more room for the Vanos rebuild, so I took the opportunity to shorten the LH shroud to make more room for the CSL intake. Here's my cut line - about an inch.



And while I was at it, I decided to cut a slot into the shroud so I can get it on & off without having to pull the radiator hose.

[01M3Fan]

I also used a hairdryer to help me remove the TMS sticker from my intake, carefully cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol & then applied the new M Power sticker - I’m sure that’s good for another 5 or 10 HP all by itself. 😉

[01M3Fan]

Today I pulled off the valve cover in prep for valve adjustment and Vanos rebuild - very pleased with what I see, everything is clean as a whistle.

[01M3Fan]

I spent a lot of time carefully manipulating the oil dipstick tube without kinking it. I used a hockey puck to rebend the line - I think it helped with creating a big radius and I only made little changes and re-fit. I re-routed the line behind the power loom and next to aux water pump and then removed the plastic clip that secured the wiring harness for the aux pump and used that as bolting point.



I used one of the rubber mounts from old airbox to give it some compliance. Hopefully it’ll be enough - dipstick draws out and goes back in about the same effort as before.

[01M3Fan]

I’ll have to go back and turn these & crop - sorry for the sea sickness

[01M3Fan]

I took the opportunity to install a different aux water pump that I’ve seen others use to free up real estate in the area.

Here's the original two pump setup


And here's the single pump setup which eliminates the taller pump

[01M3Fan]

Got the old airbox out - the oil drain back line was the only real challenge and once I had the box off the ITB’s, I was able to pop it off with big flathead screwdriver. Everything looks great underneath.

[01M3Fan]

Since my car is ‘01 I decided to send the DEC to Kassel Perf for update to HP spec with CSL base. I’m planning on getting tune from HTE Perf and I’ll be also adding MAP sensor from CV-19 as well as new decal 😉

[01M3Fan]

Getting ready to install TMS CSL intake, full Vanos rebuild/lockdown & set valve clearances.

Here’s the expensive piece - packaging was fantastic - can’t wait for install.

[01M3Fan]

Jumping to current day - decided to give the car a good wash before I started pulling things apart in the engine bay.

Car still looks fantastic even though it's 21 years old and I get thumbs up and comments from folks that they love the car. I was nervous about the Imola interior when I bought it (would I get sick of it) but wow, so glad I did - still looks amazing today!

[01M3Fan]

Ditto - placeholder 4

[01M3Fan]

The stink of running catless was getting to me and I moved to a new state and needed to get through inspections - so I decided to bite the bullet and install a set of 63.5mm Supersprint headers and their high flow cats.

Here's a shot underneath with the Euro headers out - everything looks good and seems to be plenty of room...



I managed to get the headers in and then realized I do have to install the longer studs... I had bought them but the old ones looked great - so hoping to skip a step, but just not enough exposed threads, so I double nutted the studs and backed out the old ones and installed the new ones. Fortunately, everything came out and went in OK. I used a home brew penetrating oil - 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. I bought a gun micro oiler with a hollow tube tip and it works wonders.

A "plus" during this exercise was I trial fitted my O2 sensors and EGT probe to see what I was up against with the cats in Section 1. I found that SS had forgot to drill out the bung for the EGT sensor - so I had time to rework that before the "final" install.



Here's the new studs in



Next - reinstall the headers! I could get them in place myself, but the primaries are so large a diameter, wrench access is awful and I had to enlist a helper with small hands to get some of the nuts on the studs, my hands were just too big. Tightening them was a huge PITA - had to get very creative with wrenches and on 2 of the nuts I had to suspend a wrench from above with a magnet and then tighten the nut one 6th of a turn and then re-index the wrench and repeat... 45 minutes to get one nut on - excruciating! But...


A tight fit at the transition!




And the view from below - I ended up partially disassembling the EGT harness to the DEC and then ran the lines going to the rear O2 sensors down along the fuel lines and put the harness connectors near the fuel filter underneath the metal protective shield. I just couldn't make it work from the right side of the car no matter what I tried...

[01M3Fan]

Well - the MCS shocks and struts were just too track oriented for me and I decided to remove them.



The comfort and damping were fantastic, I was running 550/650# F/R springs if I recall and the ride was great - no complaints there. But, they were very noisy... I sent them back to MCS for rebuild and upgrade to latest valving, but not a lot of improvement... Could hear a lot of "clicking" of the valves opening and closing in the shocks, so off they went. I have heard that the 2 way non-remote are the noisiest and the 1 way are supposed to be quiet - but I installed a set of TCK DA coil overs instead.



I ran the konis for several years with 450# front and 550# rears, but always felt the rear of the car was harsh on the street. I worked near Boston, so the roads were in terrible shape... So after reading about flat ride on the Forum, I changed the fronts to 300# springs and couldn't be happier - great ride and the harshness in the back is gone - even though I didn't change the rear springs!

[01M3Fan]

So my Christmas Present to myself - a set of MCS 2WNR coil overs courtesy of Mr. Wolfe. :-) Can't wait to install!!



I plan to get the car up on jack stands this winter and pull rear subframe, inspect the chassis and condition of the TMS strengthening plates. Also install TMS Aluminum rear subframe bushings and while I have the exhaust on the ground - weld in the AR20's and a set of race cats to tone down the rasp and the stink. I'll post some pics as I work through that project.

Also plan to pull fuel injectors and get those rebuilt - I haven't checked in a while, but previously when I looked I couldn't find any DIY's, so that might also be a project for me to document as well.

Parts I've accumulated over last couple of months:
- MCS 2WNR Coilovers w/Vorschlag GTS springs, camber plates & monoball RSMs
- TMS aluminum rear subframe bushings
- Auto Solutions 30% reduction Ultimate SSK
- UUC enforcer transmission mount deflection limiter cups
- Transmission, Differential & engine oil and filters

Planned work:
- Remove Dinan Koni's & Springs
- Remove driveshaft & exhaust section 1 to muffler
- Drop rear subframe
- Remove UUC SSK & Install AS SSK
- Install UUC Transmission mount enforcers
- Inspect TMS subframe reinforcement plates & unibody
- Clean up any rust & protect w/POR15
- Press out OEM subframe bushings & install TMS Al bushings
- Install new rear differential bolts
- Inspect rear suspension bushings
- Install MCS Coilovers w/550/650# springs
- Weld in AR20 into US section 1 next to OEM resonator
- Remove fuel injectors & send to clean and overhaul (write DIY?)
- Engine oil, transmission & diff oil change
- Brake fluid flush

Some nice rear spring perches



Here's the grungy rear subframe


Cleaned up and painted with rust encapsulator paint

Decided to go with aluminum rear subframe mounts in attempt to minimize risk to mounting points on the unibody. Getting the old bushing out was a huge PITA - I have a hydraulic press, but nothing to press against to get them out! So, went ballistic and drilled a ton of holes in the old ones and got the BFH out and was able to pound them out. With the help of some friends, we were able to hold the subframe in space, another guy hold the bushing and the 3rd guy actuate the press... Finished product.