2001 M3 Journey: Laguna Seca Blue Edition

[0-60motorsports]

Great update.

[bavarian3]

Next update: Interior swap and restoration complete. I'll separate the stages into different posts.

First we'll look at the A, B, C pillars. This was not a fun job. Not nearly as easy as it seems but by the end of it you get the hang of it.


The original cloth was falling off or completely gone as shown in one A pillar.





Stripping the backing material is probably the worst part. Unless someone has some tricks I don't know about, the residual adhesive is impossible to fully get off as you'll melt the plastic before removing it completely. I used a nylon wire wheel on a drill and angle grinder. Metal wire wheel was too strong.





It makes an absolute mess too.





For replacement fabric, I purchased BM3109 from veteran co in LA(went in person). Yes they're a real establishment! I actually brought the roll home on the plane.





I used 3m 90 spray adhesive to install. Here is the finished product. 8/10. It's not perfect especially the A pillar inserts, but I saved around $800 it looks like. Let's hope it lasts.

Applying the fabric wasn't easy either.

Protips:
-Buy more fabric than you need, if you haven't done it before you'll mess up a few times.
-Use heat to stretch the fabric when applying on curvature like the bottom of the c pillar. This was the hardest piece.
-Wait for the adhesive to set so it doesn't bleed through.

.



For the rear deck, I noticed the thickness of the backing doesn't seem like it would turn out right. You can also see how different the color is from the faded and unfaded parts of the deck too.





I opted to go with VHT spray paint for this piece.






As it turns out, the results were great. I used a nylon brush to rub it in per the directions. I will say the finished texture/feel is different than OE, but it's fine honestly.





I refinished the grills with SEM color coat. Great stuff for interior. SEM products have been exceptional all around.





Nice




Before installing I got the tint done while the interior was stripped. I went with 75% ceramic so the interior has protection, but keeps most of that fishbowl look =)

The pieces installed...




Then the C pillars could go in




B pillars A+ result.





A pillars pretty good, but the screw cover strip not so great. Probably will just purchase this piece separate later on.





Next I'll cover all the other parts I replaced in the interior before the cinnamon set went in.

[bavarian3]

Next time try with the spring (and damper if necessary) removed

noted! thanks.

[heinzboehmer]

Torquing the swaybar links at ride height was a challenge. Perhaps there's a better way to do it, but this involved using a stubby wrench in a very tight space. Don't want to have to do that again.

Next time try with the spring (and damper if necessary) removed

[bavarian3]

Update time. I hadn't updated this after completing the rear suspension.

I ended assembling each individual piece on to the car one at a time. This allowed me to properly torque the control arms and other bits under load/ride height.

Some challenges to name a couple, cmp bushing raises the subframe, therefore making the rear diff bolts more difficult to get to. I highlighted solving this in this thread. I found getting the diff in and getting the bolt started a huge pain. It's very heavy and awkward maneuvering it into the subframe while trying to thread the front bolt.

I regretfully changed the diff fluid to castrol, yes it groans now.








With the diff in place I could install the driveshaft. I used the OE butyl tape + mineral oil on the CSB per TIS guidance.









Here are a couple shots before mounting the swaybar links.










Torquing the swaybar links at ride height was a challenge. Perhaps there's a better way to do it, but this involved using a stubby wrench in a very tight space. Don't want to have to do that again.







With all the major bits torqued in I was able to get the heatshield in along with the freshly restored exhaust and plastic beauty covers.










Wow what a huge project. I never intended to go that far with it but i'm glad it's finally done. I won't get an alignment till I complete the front suspension & rod bearing overhaul, but initial driving impressions are pretty amazing. It feels like a completely different car.



Next up, I tackle the interior. I'll give a sneak peek as there was a change in plans along the way =)

[0-60motorsports]

Nice work. I really need to do the topside reinforcement too.

[bavarian3]

Let's go over how I handled the topside reinforcement. This car is going to be babied, but it's all about bulletproofing things to be worry-free.

After researching a bunch of solutions, I decided to go with a combo of an x-brace and Vince front gusset cups. I had no interest in cutting into the floor to the degree the vincebar requires.



Starting with the x-brace. I went a unit from puretech. They ship pretty darn quick and have decent support via IG. The price is ok too, around 550 I think I paid. Similar to vincebar, neither have websites so just reach out to them on IG.

Install process is not too bad. Most difficult part is trimming the carpet panels to let the brackets pass through. You basically take a provided drill bit on the bottom side of the rear subframe mount hole and drill up through the floor panel. Do this with the carpet floor in place to pilot holes through it as well. Then use a hole saw on the top side where the pilot holes came out to cut holes in the racp for the xbrace.

Mine ended up not fitting perfectly.




Despite trying every which way to install, the holes from the brace to the tower brackets wouldn't line up perfect, so I did a little trimming. No big deal in the end.





As I mentioned, trimming the side carpet liners were difficult because it's hard to get a perfect starting point. I went at it with a dremel trimming out slits for each bracket.

Final product looks great, and so much less intrusive than other solutions

.











On to the gusset cups...installing these is more involved than you might anticipate. The process involves drilling a pilot hole from the underside till it goes up through the floor, then using a hole saw where the pilot hole came out on the top. After creating the hole you will reveal the state of your front mount. Mine were free of cracks, again showing the great care this car has had.

Next you have to grind down the welds, and flatten the area out with a punch. After creating a flat surface, the mating surface has to be cleared of any paint and roughed up for epoxy.

I didn't document too much of this, but here is what it looks like all prepped before epoxy.



gusset cups also have to be prepped on the backside. Some time is also spent forming them to the floor with a hammer.





I used Ardalite 2014 w/ caulk gun adapter, and a rivet gun from harbor freight. All worked great.






Epoxy was applied and I quickly went to work on the rivets. Start from the middle out.

Don't mind the funny color. I painted them with an LSB spray can I had which turned out to not match even somewhat close, so I rubbed it off with some acetone.




Here is a completed shot. I wanted to finish it paint wise like factory, but that proved out of reach. I don't know about other colors but LSB racp panel is painted in a unique way that is impossible to match, at least at home. I tried all kinds of variations of base color with lsb on top and couldn't get it close.

Eventually, I'll take it to a body shop, but for now the leftover control arm paint looks pretty good.

[bavarian3]

I'll cover one more, somewhat crazy task before showing everything assembled. Restoring the factory exhaust parts.

Now, I have no idea how long this will last, but we can try.

Starting point...









I did some research on how to go about this. Turns out typical polishing compounds work quite well, but you're in for a bad time if you don't have an electric polisher of some sort.

Here's an example of Autosol with a little elbow grease.





I scored a couple Griots DA polishers on sale for Black Fri, which I'll need down the road anyways, and went to work.

My process simplified:
-first clean the pipes parts with degreaser and scotchbrite, hose down
-let dry then scrub down with bar keepers friend in a little water. this further cleans and actually polishes the easy parts.
-autosol or heavy cut compound with da polisher to actually polish everything out
-add Dr Beasleys Metal Coat

results...








as mentioned I added Dr Beasleys Metal Coat. No clue whether it makes a difference but I used it in hopes it'll make this all last longer.




Then of course all new gaskets, muffler and section 2 hangers before assembly.

Not bad eh! We'll see if it can handle some heat.

[bavarian3]

Nice Build, love the attention to detail.

Appreciate it!

Looking good. What has your GF said to all these parts in the house? Lol

Lol she is quite patient for a limited time.

I regret not taking the extra time to clean and paint all the parts during my refresh. Makes it look brand new.

There's always dry ice or steam cleaning!

[Ubaderb]

I regret not taking the extra time to clean and paint all the parts during my refresh. Makes it look brand new.

[bimmerfan08]

I left the parts to dry for a week or so. Then moved on to getting fresh bushings in. This took a collection of kits to get this done, but this bushing kit helped alot. I also had an RTAB specific tool, and autozone balljoint press kit rentals to fill in any gaps.

When your parts are so clean they can go on the carpet.

Looking good. What has your GF said to all these parts in the house? Lol

[0-60motorsports]

Nice Build, love the attention to detail.

[bavarian3]

Still lots to do before everything can go in.

I started with probably the worst job, attempting to clean the undercarriage. I tried a whole bunch of products with a pressure washer, and I could only get so far but it helped.

Especially with these wheel wells....had no idea LSB was under here! Wish I had a before shot.





This fuel tank was also filthy. Got to clean it up along with a new filler neck hose from @mpower22








On to the RACP inspection.

My car came with existing subframe plates, but I kinda wish I could've done this all myself. Upon initial inspection, the plates were not sealed and painted well so there was some surface rust forming around the plates and under the seam sealer.

I threw a wire wheel on and went to work. The spot welds were clean and intact everywhere. I can't believe how well babied this car must have been.






I'll cut to the chase here and show the finished product to reseal the plates.

The products I used:
-first spraymax 2k primer(most important) to seal everything
-then 3m urethane seam sealer on top to avoid any moisture being trapped on the bare metal
-top coated with SEM EZ coat
-coated with Transtar chip guard

It's a lot of products, but IMO the 2k primer is the most important. Spraymax makes it easy with a 2 part in a rattle can and no nasty Isocyanates.





"While I was in there" and everything apart, I worked on some other things around the drivetrain.


The picture speaks for itself.






The car also came with a UUC short shifter which I found unbearable. I'm new to the getrag as I came from an e36 m3(as shown earlier) with new detents and other bits and it shifted like butter.

In effort to find smoother shifting I decided to get all new oe bushings and go back to stock.






In with the new shifter and guibo. Note: do not install the guibo this sequence before the driveshaft. I had to reinstall it on the driveshaft later on.






I gave the paint and myself some time to rest and did some other fun stuff.

[bavarian3]

I left the parts to dry for a week or so. Then moved on to getting fresh bushings in. This took a collection of kits to get this done, but this bushing kit helped alot. I also had an RTAB specific tool, and autozone balljoint press kit rentals to fill in any gaps.


I opted for CMP solid bushings for the subframe. Mainly because they look cool of course.





Getting these in were a breeze. I used a circolight alternative to aid pressing.




And the front diff bushing. The kit really helps here.





Press it till it hits your backing plate, translation from TIS rough guidance.





Looks good.





On to the trailing arms...

The kit really helps here so you remove and press these bushings with the brake shield in place.





Unlike all the other bushings, the RTAB's were crazy tight going in, even out of the freezer with P-80 lube added. Impact wrench or real hydraulic press needed here.












On to the upper arms, these bushings go in by hand tool very easily. Keep in mind the kit alone won't service these coming out. To get them out initially I had to take my bushing to the hardware store and get an appropriate socket that fit.





Lastly the diff


Bushings are only sold with the cover, and this thing was filthy anyways so out with it...




nice seeing it all together





When your parts are so clean they can go on the carpet.



don't mind the overspray and dirty brake shields n hubs, these will be addressed when i redo the brakes.

[bavarian3]

Moving on, I started dropping stuff...






Pretty easy process honestly, just forgot to completely pull out the e-brake lines so I bent those into needing replacement.

As with the rest of the car, super good bones, just soo much dirt accumulated over the years.






Original plans were to clean all the parts, replace all bushings, and send it all back up there, but after seeing this post from BMWahba on his undercarriage resto I couldn't unsee it. So I got to work...



First I started removing all bushings and prepping parts for paint...lots of work and not fun.

The subframe bushings came out easy with some heat and a wack.




It was nice having proper tools around.




I sanded things to a reasonable degree, was unnecessary to get bare metal.










And on to some paint work. I went with Spraymax 2k primer for durability and protection, then VHT Roll-bar and chassis rattle can for top coating.


I kept it simple by keeping parts intact where possible.

Don't worry, new diff cover going in here.











I looked high and low for a quality spray can that would mimic aluminum. Found literally a paint that is marketed as aluminum with actual the actual metal in it, interesting. Came out great.




To give myself even more work, I decided to have fun with the swaybar color. Clearcoat was later added to this.




Oh and last but not least, can't forget about all the trim pieces. I was running out of room at this point and parts starting spilling into the house.

These received SEM Trim paint over some adhesion promoter(probably unnecessary)