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Cockroach Individual M3 6/2 AST DIY, 70C Thermostat

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  • samthejam
    replied
    I was able to repair the AST shock, or it hasn't leaked for the past 200 miles. We'll see how long that stays. More about that here, that was my favorite automotive side quest by a huge margin in a long time. More about it here.
    Hey everyone, Yesterday I switched from an old Ground Control (GC) coilover setup to a set of used AST 4150s on my E46 M3. My car is a full-weight (~3400 lbs) track car that I also daily, putting 15k miles a year on it, including long drives to Road Atlanta and Barber from Houston. Previous Setup (Easy to Drive, but Worn Out)

    Untitled by Kurvenkamph Motorsport, on Flickr


    I also got the 70C stat in, from my current observations it will not do any miracles. It definitely increases oil warm up time. The car will need a better rad, however the thermostat will help me know if I'm going in the right direction for certain thermal conditions and also allow me to bring the cooler temps down more than with stock thermostat for cool down laps before I get on it again. Probably will try a Koyo rad first?

    AC OFF
    Untitled by Kurvenkamph Motorsport, on Flickr

    AC ON
    Untitled by Kurvenkamph Motorsport, on Flickr

    If it's 90+ or greater it's just in the standard buffer range cruising or at idle.

    Untitled by Kurvenkamph Motorsport, on Flickr
    Last edited by samthejam; 06-02-2025, 05:46 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    I have a used BBK on the way Stoptech ST40, looks like 355x32mm rotors. I am archiving the part numbers I might need here for reference as I know availability is getting rough.

    Just want it it to be saved somewhere, I can get to on my phone.

    Looks like the kit is:

    83.137.4700​

    Aerohats:
    37.137.7415

    355x32mm Slotted Left Aerorotor with hardware:
    SRT31.737.1101.99​

    355x32mm Slotted Right Aerorotor with hardware
    ​SRT31.737.1102.99​

    Girodisc Brake Rotor Set with Hardware:
    - GD355.32.52​



    Pad Info:
    Hawk Pad Shape: 650
    PFC Pad Shape: 447
    Pagid: 1204


    " FMSI D372, D447, D609. Fits:
    1994-98 Audi RS2
    1994-96 Ferrari 456 GT Coupe Rear
    and many Porsche models, including:
    1996-98 911 Carrera 4 rear
    1991 911 Turbo
    1986 928 S
    1987-91 928 S4
    1990-91 928 GT
    1989-91 944 Turbo
    1992-95 968 Sport
    Also fits the Stoptech ST40 caliper.

    | Brand | Part # | Description |
    |-------------|-------------------|--------------------------------------------------------|
    | PFC | 0447.08.17.44 | 08 Compound – Endurance racing, low wear |
    | PFC | 0447.11.17.44 | 11 Compound – All-purpose racing, flat torque |
    | Hawk | HB141U.650 | DTC-70 – Max bite, aggressive track use |
    | Hawk | HB141G.650 | DTC-60 – High torque, better modulation |
    | Hawk | HB141N.650 | HP Plus – Street/track hybrid |
    | Hawk | HB141B.650 | HPS 5.0 – Performance street pad |
    | Ferodo | FCP372H | DS2500 – Street/light track, refined feel |
    | Pagid | U1204 14 | RS14 – High bite, ceramic-based race pad |
    | Pagid | 63-910-0609 | RSL29 – Endurance compound, consistent wear |
    | Porterfield | AP372-R4 | R4 – Full race pad |
    | Porterfield | AP372-R4S | R4-S – Street/autocross pad, rotor friendly |
    | Centric | 105.06090 | Posi Quiet Ceramic – Low dust, street use |
    | StopTech | 334.0609.17.0 | SR34 – Full race pad, high bite, low wear |


    I'm pretty sure there is a spec series, not sure if its a 928, 944, or 968.​ "​

    PFC 11:
    -0447.11.17.44​


    Brake Line Set for front:
    950.34005 (this is wrong this is for stock calipers)
    950.34000 (this is for st40 kit)

    Caliper Rebuild Kits:
    They seem available but you need to know if long or regular piston? Different diameters from 26-40mm?

    https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=2&srsltid=AfmBOoreRSya8 OkJPSKmsWSSIvjCikHMGOAQIwcrM2lIpgm9mnzTwUEB

    Caliper Bracket part #s:
    36.137.7419
    Selling a set of brand new StopTech ST40 4 piston forged calipers, brackets, rotor hats, stainless lines, PFC Z-rated pads, and Girodisc 355x32 mm discs. For ZCP brake bias, everything you need for a complete front setup. All parts are brand new, never mounted. A comparable setup is currently selling for ~$3400 through most


    Caliper Assemblies in Black:
    ST-40 caliper, 38/44mm pistons, black, 32mm wide, trailing R (ACS.43E.1154)
    ST-40 caliper, 38/44mm pistons, black, 32mm wide, trailing L (ACS.43E.1153)​

    Hardware:???????????????

    Attached Files
    Last edited by samthejam; 06-04-2025, 06:09 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Originally posted by nextlvel View Post
    One of my fave build threads by far, all the pictures and background make the whole thing so much more "real"
    Glad you are enjoying following along!

    Leave a comment:


  • nextlvel
    replied
    One of my fave build threads by far, all the pictures and background make the whole thing so much more "real"

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Did some research and found some Porsche Bilsteins that fit. I did the same thing for my E28 since it did not have much aftermarket support, Porsche shocks are great to adapt as they are valved fairly stiff since Porsches have an engine in the back. They are also shorter, but the bumpstop engagement looks perfect. I went with the stiffest one I could find as I have a stiff rear spring. Older 911s have a lot of different options for OTS Bilsteins.

    Just got back from a test drive, best the car has ever felt. Firm but supple ride, way more rear grip. Just feels good. I had to get some adapters but got lucky with scamazon.
    Last edited by samthejam; 05-17-2025, 08:43 AM.

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  • samthejam
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    Dude, run 17s. So much cheaper. 275/40R17 660s are $1100 shipped from Tire Rack.
    I'm not against it, just using the wheels I have

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Dude, run 17s. So much cheaper. 275/40R17 660s are $1100 shipped from Tire Rack.

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    Howdy y'all another update.

    So I ended up getting the Continental Extreme Force Contact, 275/35R18. They were on sale. Fuck modern 200tws tire sizing, they must be like 285s. My last set of direzza were "265s" but look a lot different than the Rs4s that are mounted on same wheels. Anyways, so I took out the spacers not a big deal but fucking annoying. I should've got the 265/35R18 RT660s that were also on sale but wanted something a bit more endurance focused for this go around on tires.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    During that I noticed my RR balljoint was fucked. Had quite a bit of play, explained why the car was so loose last time I took it out.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    So I ordered a toolset from Amazon and Lemforder Balljoints, was very happy to see Made in Germany on the Box!


    My friend with less than a weeks notice suggested we go to FD to spectate Road Atlanta, and I realized I hadn't taken a day off yet this year. I also wanted to help jayjaya29 finish his S54, we are pretty close talk to eachother almost everyday about our cars, life etc.. The progress had naturally slowed down with his new child, and he needed the car mobile to maintain his other cars. He has helped me out in so many ways the least I could do was a weekend slam to get it out on its first test drive. So the plan was, get car aligned Thursday. Leave Friday, do the weekend stuff and cannonball home Monday a standard Atlanta trip for me.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    Not a big fan of FD, but a big fan of supporting this amazing track and people using it. It was a good time.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    Now back to the car. Before I left, I saw the LR shock was leaking there was oil up the 3 or 4th threads. Which sucks. We had the car packed down with 3 people, luggage, all my tools, spare tires etc. The shock did not make it. When we arrived to Atlanta it was dripping oil onto the floor. It had a slight knocking noise under big bumps, I felt it during a driver swap sleeping in back seat. The car was also pulling to the left, Lins Automotive was open and by the track so I stopped by to get a last minute alignement. I called Friday ahead for notice and they were very cool about it.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    Other than that, no real issues on the trip. Thing pulls strong, we had some stretches of open roads still pulling up the factory Vmax that is deleted, but didn't have the balls to go past it.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    When I left ForumlaD, one of the drift shops by there had $100 dyno pulls. So I pulled in and let er eat. They strapped down the factory lower camber arms, so pretty sure rear alignment moved a bit but luckily they didn't bend visually.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    The guy at the shop said they usually dyno at 260 there which seemed very low, but I had no baseline so who knows. Anyways Pretty happy with that, I am told if I do a cold air intake like AFE or something there is some more. However K.I.S.S, stock airbox is very serviceable.


    Back to the shock, by the time I was back home in Louisiana. The noises it was making was not good, and the last stretch to my house in Houston was rough but we made it.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    The shock is quite rust proofed. I need the car in less a month at Road Atlanta and I want it up quick and cheap. I think I have come up with a solution, I will post that next if it is successful. Trying to save up for MCS new or find a good pair used so want to just get moneys worth out of this set.

    That puddle of oil off to the side is from just setting the shock over. It still has gas pressure but it is hemorrhaging fluid.

    It got 22mpg with me using cruise going 80-90. My friend drove it briefly on the way up and he got 24mpg doing 60-70.





    ​​
    Last edited by samthejam; 05-13-2025, 07:14 AM.

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Poly is trash. Stay OE rubber or go with the Turner spherical.

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    So these Bimmerworld TrackCABs have been pretty terrible. They just don't hold up well for me. Even if installed flush they will work their way out and eventually start to wear a groove in them.

    Remember how I just did these a couple months ago?

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Well here is the driver side.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Already a groove and itll do a popping thing under braking. You can't replicate it with a pry bar, its fucking annoying in daily use until it gets really really bad. . Luckily a set of used FCABs came up here on the forum, a set of AKG ones already installed in some housings.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Installed those last nights laying in the rain in the driveway, hopefully these will hold up better. I also bent back out the heat shield for passenger side FCAB. I think that whole shield will just need to be replaced.

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    So my tire situation was in pretty dire shape. I asked around on facebook and SQ13 had some older 265/35R18s. They're older Acceleras like 7 years old but tread, so perfect enoough to get me around in interim until I can get a new set of 200tw.

    This was an adventure in itself getting them back here.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Then I stacked the wheels in...
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    I have a bunch of extra SSRs but they don't match.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    I really liked the silver in the front. More on that later.

    Next I wanted to tackle the ducting so went to my friend Alejandros house, and he had something I could use as well as a bunch of other hardware and little bullshit.

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    I could not stare at the mistmatched wheels any longer, so I got the spray can out.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    I also realized I was losing my mind driving the car making changes trying to feel differences. I started to just wonder if the methodology I was using, to tune it which was mainly adjusting ignition timing because that's what I saw in the other tune. This just seemed like the wrong approach with the amazing vanos system on this engine. So I gave up and decided it was best for my time and sanity to outsource this.

    So I bit the bullet and got a tune from @HassanEido. Absolutely wonderful experience, Feels great and my car has all the factory safeties. The level of transparency, communication from a tuner is something I have never seen before. So that has been great, going to start looking locally to find a dyno shop so he can get it perfect but so far the canned tune feels great.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr






    Last edited by samthejam; 04-24-2025, 05:46 AM.

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  • Bry5on
    replied
    For tuning, smart to keep it simple with mild changes. Unfortunately it's very difficult to tell exactly when/where the DME is pulling timing because the sampling rate of the d-bus is so slow. The adaptation values for timing pull it based on events then slowly try to return back to 0 as I understand it, making tuning a little tough. These motors are also pretty sensitive to air/fuel ratio at part throttle, so if you're playing with timing and getting a better burn, you might need to add a bit of fuel. A user named Pavlo produced a pretty nice guide for doing basic part throttle fuel tuning which is super helpful, but won't replace a Wideband O2 to really nail it. Good luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by samthejam View Post

    I will grab that A/C Condensor just to have as a spare. I want to try and clean mine in the car if possible, but if it is pretty worn out than can put in yours.

    Do you happen to have your original bellypan by chance?
    No belly pan.

    I’ve found cleaning the radiators helps a little but replacing it makes a much bigger impact. Really need to remove and then shake the crap out.

    What do I have to do to get that headliner?

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    I have an AC condenser that is in decent shape. That will help.

    The biggest problem is you probably have a lot of high pressure air under the hood which stalls flow through the radiator and oil cooler. The E9X M3 ducts the oil cooler underneath the car out of the engine screening. That would help.

    The other thing that helped a lot was swaintech coating my headers and reinstalling the heat shields. Then relocating the expansion tank to the drug bin and then replacing it with a 2l Canton tank helped a bunch. Also can run a higher pressure cap.
    I will grab that A/C Condensor just to have as a spare. I want to try and clean mine in the car if possible, but if it is pretty worn out than can put in yours.

    Do you happen to have your original bellypan by chance?

    Leave a comment:


  • samthejam
    replied
    I also see I am missing a fuck ton of the ducting, Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr


    Mine doesn't even have the lower piece that directs air towards the oil cooler/rad, it's broken. Missing the side pieces and the undertray so going to source all that.
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr

    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Untitled by Sam DaJam, on Flickr
    Last edited by samthejam; 04-13-2025, 06:04 PM.

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