OK...I think I'm converted

[Mark CSL]

CSL#4 cups and a big brake kit have a kfc then brake for the hole
i dont tan well :hahaha:

[glendog74]

Well, I'm SHOCKED! Andyk - the last bastion - of unmodified CSLs has finally succumbed to the Dark Side... :hahaha:

I agree with Shimmy/SOAB - it is rather subjective but i can't categorically state that my APs have enabled any reduction in braking distance with standard road tyres (PS2) on track. What the APs do very well over OEM is remain judder free and resist fade, in-turn promoting huge confidence in them, making you think less about cooking brakes and more about driving smoother/faster...

Can't wait to try my Cup Tyres on track now and feel the full force of grip, cornering and effective braking! :smt023

[SMD]

About time Andy!:thumbs:

The brakes should have been done by the factory when making the car!:whistle:

[jibm]

SAW 6

Three CSL are travelling side by side along the M6 at 70mph. It's a beautiful sunny day and everythings lovely. BUT OH NO, suddenly a huge hole appears 40meters up the road, and there's a horrible pit of fire below.
The brakes are instantly stamped on - but two of them are going to get a severe tanning session :hahaha:

Which one do you choose? Live or die the choice is yours

CSL#1 - Bog standard factory CSL with PS2 tyres
CSL#2 - Bog standard factory CSL except AP 365mm/6pot RS29 brakes with PS2 tyres
CSL#3 - Bog standard factory CSL with Cup tyres

:hahaha:

[Andyk]

Well that has suprised me to be honest...my standard brakes with upgraded pads and braided hoses was OK and really only started to go off towards end of day...if you say that AP's don't allow you to break later then to be honest 2k plus for the kit seems like a bit much just to stop fade.....But i will say again Eric had the same tyres as me and he was def breaking later than...this was his first track day as well.

My mate who does a bit of Rally Driving and also has a CSL on standard breaks went out with him on his first run to give him some tips and he came back and said the AP's were awesome and you couls def break a lot later....

I am confused now....

[Hazy]

tomorrow at Anglesey should be interesting comparison....

I have gone from a bog standard CSL, I have had the geo altered to run 2 deg of negative camber front and rear ( its a pig in a straight line over 120mph now:bigcry, fitted Ferodo DS3000 full race pads (they fq your discs and black the wheels instanly, but boy do they stop), DOT 5 point summat race fluid and a fresh set of cups instead of Goodyear F1's. Looking forward to the transformation.

Me and Radders always run at a similar pace, so we can evaluate his AP's against my standard brakes too.....report and pics to follow Saturday night:thumbs:

Have I gone the right route with the geo???

[bryce]

Andy, the brakes (OEM / AP's / Alcons) will only ever stop you as quick as the car can keep on gripping the road. Theoretically you should be able to lock up OEM brakes, so APs/ Alcons cant stop you any quicker than that. Ya follow? BBK's are designed to resist fade for longer, so you can keep hammering and they stay nice and sharp.

As SOAB covered, side by side OEM vs APs - assuming all else is same ie tyres / weight / conditions - braking from say 100mph as hard as you can - once, should stop in the same time / distance. Do this 20 times in a row, and the AP's will be stopping quicker.

Have I gone the right route with the geo???

What did you do about toe? Im toe'd in rear, toe'd out front. It sucks on the road though. :banghead:

[Hazy]

Andy, the brakes (OEM / AP's / Alcons) will only ever stop you as quick as the car can keep on gripping the road. Theoretically you should be able to lock up OEM brakes, so APs/ Alcons cant stop you any quicker than that. Ya follow? BBK's are designed to resist fade for longer, so you can keep hammering and they stay nice and sharp.

As SOAB covered, side by side OEM vs APs - assuming all else is same ie tyres / weight / conditions - braking from say 100mph as hard as you can - once, should stop in the same time / distance. Do this 20 times in a row, and the AP's will be stopping quicker.



What did you do about toe? Im toe'd in rear, toe'd out front. It sucks on the road though. :banghead:

Not sure mate, will scan the set up details sheet later, have a lok and tell me what you think. BTW, what pressures for the track cold/hot for Cups??

[bryce]

Not sure mate, will scan the set up details sheet later, have a lok and tell me what you think. BTW, what pressures for the track cold/hot for Cups??

Im no expert, but mine is a fast road geometry setup from Thorney.

Most run 32pun Hot. Which is about 26 cold.

[_Nathan_]

32 hot so about 24-26 cold IME.

[_Nathan_]

Bryce beat me to it

[Hazy]

Im no expert, but mine is a fast road geometry setup from Thorney.

Most run 32pun Hot. Which is about 26 cold.

Hmm....thats quite low innit????

[bryce]

They get very hot though! Just run them to track at 32 cold, then let them down when ya get there.

[Mark CSL]

Yip i run cups at knockhill 32psi cold to drive there and down to 27psi before the first session then check them after some hot laps and 32psi hot is just right:thumbs:

[Shake&Bake]

Hi all, just back from work so have only seen thread now. As Andy said I did seem to be able to brake much later than a lot of people yesterday (including that lovely blue Exige). They do fill you with confidence and and you are much more likely to brake later and later. Admittedly I am very hard on brakes. The tyres I had on were the conti's, I never hear anyone talking about them on forums but I think they were fantastic. If what ye are saying is correct about the addition of the cups then I REALLY can't wait for CC.

To be fair Andy wasn't the only one that was suprised at how late you could brake with the AP's.

AP's do fade as well btw as I found out.

Anyone know of any nice 5 bed close to Llandow for sale :hahaha:

S&B