CSL v's M3 - Exact part differences needed!!

[NZ_M3]

Awesome find Alex!! List updated!!

##Now waits for an influx of Yanks placing orders for the super lightweight CSL microfilter housing ### :hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

[Bounce]

I am very happy
I made a new discovery for something that is different in the CSL and no one knows (or I can be wrong and someone knew about it).

How did this came in my mind... the background.
I remember years ago in my E46 compact and another friend's compact, I was changing the spark plugs and when I removed the microfilter housing, I noticed that is was extremely heavy.
I couldn't believe this thing was so heavy and BMW made such a stupid design.
Some time ago, I was changing the air filter of the CSL and removed again the microfilter housing. This time... didn't felt so heavy as in the compact but I thought... maybe it's because I am much stronger now.
The last weekend I was thinking again about this housing, that I could make a carbon fiber one, to reduce the weight. At the same time, I was remembering that the one in my CSL felt so much lighter than the compact.
So today I decided to check !

Here you go my friends.

The CSL ones (fitted only in the CSL and no other E46) ->
Microfilter housing, bottom part 64 31 7 895 937 1.050 kg
Microfilter housing 64 31 7 895 939 1.630 kg


The ones used in every other E46 (including M3) ->
Microfilter housing, bottom part 64 31 8 362 894 1.690 kg
Microfilter housing 64 31 8 370 066 2.625 kg

Yes, the BMW engineers thought about it and stripped out 1.7 kilos from this microfilter housing.

NZ_M3, I think you can update the list of confirmed part differences !!!
:thumbs:

PS : I will continue my quest to discover every bolt that is different !!!

I knew that,:whistle::whistle:

[alexk]

CSL rules

I am very happy
I made a new discovery for something that is different in the CSL and no one knows (or I can be wrong and someone knew about it).

How did this came in my mind... the background.
I remember years ago in my E46 compact and another friend's compact, I was changing the spark plugs and when I removed the microfilter housing, I noticed that is was extremely heavy.
I couldn't believe this thing was so heavy and BMW made such a stupid design.
Some time ago, I was changing the air filter of the CSL and removed again the microfilter housing. This time... didn't felt so heavy as in the compact but I thought... maybe it's because I am much stronger now.
The last weekend I was thinking again about this housing, that I could make a carbon fiber one, to reduce the weight. At the same time, I was remembering that the one in my CSL felt so much lighter than the compact.
So today I decided to check !

Here you go my friends.

The CSL ones (fitted only in the CSL and no other E46) ->
Microfilter housing, bottom part 64 31 7 895 937 1.050 kg
Microfilter housing 64 31 7 895 939 1.630 kg


The ones used in every other E46 (including M3) ->
Microfilter housing, bottom part 64 31 8 362 894 1.690 kg
Microfilter housing 64 31 8 370 066 2.625 kg

Yes, the BMW engineers thought about it and stripped out 1.7 kilos from this microfilter housing.

NZ_M3, I think you can update the list of confirmed part differences !!!
:thumbs:

PS : I will continue my quest to discover every bolt that is different !!!

[_Nathan_]

FAB are the BMW breakers that readily spring to mind.

[Craig]

Been new to the BMW game, although I know the mechanicals of the car I have no idea when it comes to specialists? Care to enlighten me with a few names and contact details?

Ideally I need to find an interior damaged, or blown up M3 lol.

[windy]

Have your tried some of the specialist M breakers? If you're turning it into a track slag, you could put the lot in an M3 shell. If you found one that just needed a roof skin you'd be laughing!

Though I don't know if you can buy shells from breakers these days, what with all the legal nonsense?

[_Nathan_]

I've got some CSL rear camber arms (different to M3 ones) you can have cheap

[Craig]

Could be, need to try and work out every part im going to need right down to the last bolt. Then work out the costs of those parts, factor in the labour and paint costs...

I'm very mechanically competent so the stripping and rebuilding can be done by myself, but I need to make sure the chassis is straight then work out whats bent on the rear of the car as the passengers wheel camber is definatly out of line too, this side made contact with a barrier but not a hard hit.

[Bealo]

Thing's could be looking a bit better for you Craig :thumbs:

Fingers crossed...

[Craig]

Yeh, do all M3's have the composite crash structures or just the CSL?

[phat///M3]

Guess i need to do some sums and work out if its going to be economical to repair, aswell as all the jig work its going to need repair work to pretty much both arches, then the wings, bonnet, bumpers and doors need replacing and / or repairing. Its also going to need wheels, tyres, headlight, suspension, lower arms, brake line, new splitters and rear valance plus a whole host of other bits. I'm extreamely particular too, if I'm going to rebuild it i'll also be improving on it and making sure every bolt is copper greased and all parts OEM or of a very high quality.... Maybe I need to get some body shop quotes first, then get some part prices and go from there. Ideally I'd like to get my CSL back up and running too, but if its going to cost £20k I might think otherwise. I could be tempted to strip out the interior and fit a cage and harness ready seats so selling the interior would recooperate some costs, I'd be quiet happy making it into a dedicated track car, but I wouldnt skimp on the body repair work.

You should be able to get most of the cosmetic stuff (front wheel arches, bonnet, doors, headlights, etc. of ebay (.co.uk and also .de) as most of those parts are shared with a normal M3, and the doors I think are even shared with any e46 coupe.

[Craig]

Im located in Guisborough, which is 7 miles from MIddlesborough so you're talking about 60 miles. I don't mind part finding either as I have a few trade accounts with places too.

Things might just be looking up a lil lol.

[1cosmicboy]

Thanks guys!

Michael - I can get the car to anywhere in the country I'm in the North East anyway, if you wanted to show the pictures to you're body guys and ask them what other photo's they'd want and what state of strip down they'd want the car then maybe we can get this car back on the road?

Of course payment can be made in any way, shape or form. I'd be in no rush either, what about the damaged arches on the rear quarters they going to be easy enough to repair?

craig ,will give you my bosses email address tomorrow nite ok ,we have an account with lloyds carlisle,and with me having a csl ,getting parts will not be a problem,he may come out and look at the car if ur not too far away .will get in touch tomorrow nite
michael

[Craig]

Guess i need to do some sums and work out if its going to be economical to repair, aswell as all the jig work its going to need repair work to pretty much both arches, then the wings, bonnet, bumpers and doors need replacing and / or repairing. Its also going to need wheels, tyres, headlight, suspension, lower arms, brake line, new splitters and rear valance plus a whole host of other bits. I'm extreamely particular too, if I'm going to rebuild it i'll also be improving on it and making sure every bolt is copper greased and all parts OEM or of a very high quality.... Maybe I need to get some body shop quotes first, then get some part prices and go from there. Ideally I'd like to get my CSL back up and running too, but if its going to cost £20k I might think otherwise. I could be tempted to strip out the interior and fit a cage and harness ready seats so selling the interior would recooperate some costs, I'd be quiet happy making it into a dedicated track car, but I wouldnt skimp on the body repair work.

[NZ_M3]

that's most definitely repairable from the photos I can see - I suspect the driver side front rail will be tweaked a bit from the damage to the strut and the lower sill/floor (back of wheel arch). Definitely a good couple of hours on the jig - but can surely be made as good as new.

The engine will definitely have to come out, so too the partial interior to repair that wheel arch floor.

The strut top is an individual piece where it broke off, so it's a matter a aligning the chassis and rewelding a top on there - a good shop will be capable of doing it without you even been able to tell that it's ever been touched (well in NZ they can at least).

I've seen lot worse bought back to life (including a 5 series that got T-boned) where the cost of repair was almost the same cost as buying a new car and a 7 series that needed a whole front end cut - needless to say when I went to see the cars I couldn't tell that it ever had a front cut put in and that was with the engine out and the car up on a hoist.

Good luck Craig!! Hope to see it back on the road soon in whatever form you've got in mind for her :thumbs: