I've just come back from the Ring at DN10 track day, worst I've ever seen for my car on temps, was 28 degrees though. I was having to let off down the straight and then it was more or less ok for a lap. If I did the full straight I was getting between the dot and the red mark by halfway round the lap and had to let off when the temp quickly dropped back down. I know it's an extreme circumstance given the abuse is higher than normal and the temps, but I think I need to give my 9 year old cooling system a refresh now.
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I suffered this again over the 2 days at the ring this week.
Every time however it was caused by catching slower cars and the refusal of them to move over to allow me to pass. When collecting the dirty hot air from them I observed a rapid rise in the water temp up into the red.
Backing off and pulling out of the disrupted air flow and it would return to normal within a minute or so.
A couple of pals were running their M3's with the electric fan mod and commented that they never had a problem.
Wed was 24 deg c and Thurs 28 deg c so fairly warm.Comment
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My mate was in my car and said the same thing when I was behind a car about the hot air when I mentioned my temps had suddenly risen, the thought didn't occur to me!Originally posted by rstoughy View PostComment
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I've never noticed high temps.
Mostly out in front though, maybe that's why :gayfight:Comment
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I saw it a few times.Originally posted by lawsy View Post
94c you are in the middle.
95c and you go to 3/4Comment
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+1, also, if water temp becomes critical, is there a warning light.Originally posted by shimmy View PostComment
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i was one of the people running electric fan with both OEM fans removed at DN10 and coolant temps were fine, highest i saw on track was 92 deg but generally it sat about 85
before heading out each session i ran it in the service menu so had the digital coolant readout on the dash
FYI the second dot on the analogue gauge is about 100 deg - this was about the highest i saw in the pit area due to heatsoak off the oil late in the day as by end of the day (did 20 laps) the oil was up near 125 deg after doing 4 laps on the trot, rest of the time oil sat about 115 at most
over winter I will be fitting a bimmerworld oil cooler, combined with the fluidyne rad & slim fan setup this should give the perfect setup on the track - Grant with the black CSL mentioned that his higher capacity oil cooler (HPF I think it was) made a massive difference in keeping the oil temps more stable at about the midway mark on the oem oil temp gauge. shouldn't need to worry about overcooling the oil either as there is a stat in the oil filter housing of the S54Comment
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How comes you aren't staying with the mishimoto rad?Comment
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it's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports oneOriginally posted by Graham View Post
Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)
so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these carsComment
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Above 100C which is an issue for this engine.Originally posted by shimmy View Post
When you are in red, the red is iluminated behind so you know you have an issue.
Quoting from the E46 M3 user manual.
Between the blue and red zones
Normal operating range. The needle
may rise as far as the edge of the red
sector during normal operation.
I just start to wonder if we are being too sensitive with the temperature displayed ?
I personally had an issue with the radiator and viscous fan (again this one) but if BMW says it's normal to go up to where the red is starting (obviously not inside the red and the red lamp on), why should we worry if it's a bit above the middle ?
Putting this on the table as it has been troubling me for a long time.
Father says below 99C it's not a problem.Comment
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Ah ok I'm with yaOriginally posted by stevenEK9 View Postit's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports one
Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)
so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these cars
I am looking into oil coolers now, they just seen pricey for the E46 M3 due to the shape, you can buy universal kits for half the price!Comment
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Originally posted by stevenEK9 View Postit's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports one
Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)
so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these cars
So you are saying OeM rad is good enough, I still think we have not found the issue that is causing this, just various ways if masking it, let's not forget this issue occurs at full speed, maximum airflow theoretically, maximum cooling.
Still think it could be an airflow issue. Also let's not forget the fans do not work at high speeds, they are turned off.Comment
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Next thing I am replacing is the temperature sensor.
But again, the manual says this is normal.Comment
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