Overheating on track only

[CraigMillwardCroft]

:whistle: :bigcry: it's the only reason I've gone rwd now...

Was that due to also drive shafts breaking on circuits

[manos///3]

When the air temperature was vey high on track, the engine water temp was climbing to 3/4 , close to red.
Then I changed fan coupling on the main fan and motorsport thermostat and disabled this problem.

My cats are 200 cell SS (cod 787502)

[shane@mbtech]

The viscous fan shouldn't cool more than the air flowing through the rad.

But if the viscous is bolloxed it could in theory create drag on the water pump and add to the issue.

It's worth a pop I suppose.

[ando]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.

[shimmy]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.

Ando

what does your last sentence mean?

[shane@mbtech]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.

Who mapped it?
Who told you they run lean standard?

[alexk]

The viscous fan shouldn't cool more than the air flowing through the rad.

But if the viscous is bolloxed it could in theory create drag on the water pump and add to the issue.

It's worth a pop I suppose.

lawsy you keep insisting the viscous fan is not a problem, but correct me here.
Do you have experience in countries with very high temperatures (i.e. Greece with 45+) ?
As I said in the other thread, the viscous fan is a problem in BMWs when the weathers is very hot and speed less than 60km/h (i.e. going uphill with second gear).
That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.

[shimmy]

lawsy you keep insisting the viscous fan is not a problem, but correct me here.
Do you have experience in countries with very high temperatures (i.e. Greece with 45+) ?
As I said in the other thread, the viscous fan is a problem in BMWs when the weathers is very hot and speed less than 60km/h (i.e. going uphill with second gear).
That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.

either way its got feck all to do with my question! (as its nothing to do with overheating on track at 100% throttle) :banghead:

[ando]

Ando

what does your last sentence mean?

Headgasket went last year, Mr Vanos did it, told me he's done loads of m3 and csl's, as they are lean at the top end of the rev range. so have had it re mapped, it was lean according to the guy that mapped it a local garage done it on a rolling road, took the limiter off to. I had it on track this year got a miss fire and Mr Vanos check it over as I thought ot could be headgasket again, it was coil packs. he asked if I'd had it mapped yet I said 'No' as the car has gone out to the ring this year I thought I'd have it done before it went. Was down on power and torque, feels nice now.

Hopefully will feel even better this weekend when I go out and the Shrick Cams and another remap have been done.

Cheers

Ando

[CSL BEAST]

Hi shimmy its will shanes mate if bmw have changed the motor you now have a new motorsport thermostat,new water pump,oil cooler and all water pipes etc have been changed or checked .The only other parts left in the cooling system would be radiator ,heater matrix heater control valve .Its very hard to check the radiator at the track due to all the plastic cowling so feeling for a cold spot or blockage reducing flow is imposible .As some body else has said reducing air flow to the rad by following a car closley made the temp go up to 3/4 if this is true a blockage in the radiator could possibly cause a similair rise under extreme conditions such as hot ambiant temps and 100% throttle .The csl runs a closed loop 02 sytem so it is monitoring exhaust gas temp and fuel mixture all the time even at full throttle constantly adjusting air fuel mixture not to mention the knock sensor that would pull timing and add fuel if things where going lean or hot i would be very supprized if a cat would cause this issue ,if it was the cat/exhaust temps the eml would be on as the temp sensor in the exhaust down pipe would pick it up.Just my opinion hope this helps to decide what part to change first :thumbs:GOOD LUCK

[shimmy]

Hi shimmy its will shanes mate if bmw have changed the motor you now have a new motorsport thermostat,new water pump,oil cooler and all water pipes etc have been changed or checked .The only other parts left in the cooling system would be radiator ,heater matrix heater control valve .Its very hard to check the radiator at the track due to all the plastic cowling so feeling for a cold spot or blockage reducing flow is imposible .As some body else has said reducing air flow to the rad by following a car closley made the temp go up to 3/4 if this is true a blockage in the radiator could possibly cause a similair rise under extreme conditions such as hot ambiant temps and 100% throttle .The csl runs a closed loop 02 sytem so it is monitoring exhaust gas temp and fuel mixture all the time even at full throttle constantly adjusting air fuel mixture not to mention the knock sensor that would pull timing and add fuel if things where going lean or hot i would be very supprized if a cat would cause this issue ,if it was the cat/exhaust temps the eml would be on as the temp sensor in the exhaust down pipe would pick it up.Just my opinion hope this helps to decide what part to change first :thumbs:GOOD LUCK

Cheers.

1. Radiator
2. Heater Matrix
3. Heater control valve

I guess I have dismissed the radiator as it is so obvious nd so many US ATS have fitted new or upgrades and not solved the issues.

Heater matrix is a good call. I have no idea what it does or how it could affect temps, same with control valve. How do they work?


What do you reckon about fuel regulator and filter that I've just swapped?

[CSL BEAST]

Hi Shimmy
sorry its taken a while to get back to you.The heater matrix is a small heat exchanger or radiator inside the heater box air is blown through it by the heater motor to heat the interior cabin .The heater control valve or duo valve controls the flow of coolant through the matrix .Before i even thought about taking the dash out i would rig a by pass pipe up to rule the matrix out its a pig of a job .Before i went any further i would add a forte coolant system flush run the car for a day or two drain the system and reverse flush the rad wont cost much and may just help then again may not .If myself or lawsy can help just let us know .The fuel filter and regulator can only be a good move after 9 years of use imo.

[northernjim]

Sometimes when the internal coolant system reaches 7 or 8 years old there can be a thin layer of corrosion across the entire internal surface area. If the water temp reaches boiling point you can get "kettling" (small gas bubbles) forming on this line layer of corrosion. Obviously the air bubbles act as an insulator and the temp will increase if you don't drop the engine load.

I think there are some products you can run through the coolant system to remove the layer, and then refill using an additive which combats the kettling. I had a problem like this on a race car and I tried a product called water wetter - I wasn't convinced it would work, but I saw a drop in coolant temps afterwards, probably about 10 degrees.


Only way to find out for sure is to rule them out one at a time.

water wetter/other products are available... contains xyz tho which is unfortunately not good for seals

Was that due to also drive shafts breaking on circuits

:moan: never missed a beat:finga:

That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.

feck just how old are you Alex:119:







Can I ask does anyone know what the water temp gauges readings are? what is operating temp? 100c I assume, but how hot is 'red' 125c? 150c?






I did suffer from a hot engine at donny, when following csl's for a lap waiting for them to move over:wanker: like you say tho, back off and it drops straight back down

[alexk]

Yesterday in Monza I had no overheating issues

My problem is solved :beer:

[AlexGTT]

Yesterday in Monza I had no overheating issues

My problem is solved :beer:

Yes, but what were the ambient temperatures Alex? Generally the issue only happens with 25 degree+ ambients.