Won't start!

[Porker]

They still haven't figured out how to solve the starting problem. Any advice here?

[Porker]

You tried both keys?

Yes, I have!

[_Nathan_]

You tried both keys?

[Porker]

The issue with not-starting is solved, it was a faulty communication with the SMG selector lever.

The EWS (electronische wegfahr sperre) says: "starter motor is blocked due to P/N"

Haven't found a solution yet.

Anyone else had this issue?

[Porker]

The issue with not-starting is solved, it was a faulty communication with the SMG selector lever.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Hi Pip,

To be honest, I don't think that's the case. When I push started it, it worked fine for two months, which should indicate the alternator is charging the battery? Also now, the lights and everything work perfectly, which should indicate the battery is in good nick (multimeter check confirms this). It seems like an electrical issue, strangely happening two times after I'd washed the car, maybe something to do with water getting where it shouldn't get?

The answer must be don't wash it :whistle: Would be nice to find the problem though.

[Porker]

Surely then it must be the alternator. With the new battery not being fully charged it probably just held out for the two/three months since it was replaced.

It is a commonly replaced item on the CSL and a warranty item I believe.

Pip

Hi Pip,

To be honest, I don't think that's the case. When I push started it, it worked fine for two months, which should indicate the alternator is charging the battery? Also now, the lights and everything work perfectly, which should indicate the battery is in good nick (multimeter check confirms this). It seems like an electrical issue, strangely happening two times after I'd washed the car, maybe something to do with water getting where it shouldn't get?

[Pip1968]

Surely then it must be the alternator. With the new battery not being fully charged it probably just held out for the two/three months since it was replaced.

It is a commonly replaced item on the CSL and a warranty item I believe.

Pip

[Porker]

I've had exactly the same problem on two occassions. I have a fresh battery since November, the lights are working fine, but it refused to start.

First time I push-started the car, started fine for about a month, until yesterday, same thing.

The car is booked for a clutch replacement next week, I'll have the starting problem checked as well, I'll let you know what it turned out to be.

[Jonnymaz]

He is not very clever then, as a car sat there will not have 14.2v in the battery. Either you misheard him or typo.

He said something about 14.2v being the magic number, although he wasn't particularly clear. Perhaps he was referring to the output of the alternator?

I was more interested in finding out how to fix it than listening to the science behind it!

[Bounce]

we are just simple builders!

Yep,just drive them,don't know how the fook they work:smt039

As Donald Sutherland once said to Clint Eastwood about his Sherman Tank in Kelly's Heroes.:-D

[shimmy]

And post 7,neither do I.:-D

we are just simple builders!

[Bounce]

Post 3...... And I have no clue whatsoever

And post 7,neither do I.:-D

[shane@mbtech]

Yes, good call:thumbs:

The nice repair man checked the battery with a multimeter whilst the engine was running and explained that the reading could suggest what was wrong:

Less than 13.something volts means the alternator has gone (not enough charge getting into the battery).
Fluctuating between 13.something and 14.2v (I think), the alternator is ok but the battery is not holding the charge (as in my case).
Over 14.2v both ok.
He explained that the engine needed at least 14.2v to start, any less and nothing would happen.

I'm sure someone in the know will correct me if this is a load of bollocks but it might help someone with a similar problem!

He is not very clever then, as a car sat there will not have 14.2v in the battery. Either you misheard him or typo.

[Jonnymaz]

Yes, good call:thumbs:

The nice repair man checked the battery with a multimeter whilst the engine was running and explained that the reading could suggest what was wrong:

Less than 13.something volts means the alternator has gone (not enough charge getting into the battery).
Fluctuating between 13.something and 14.2v (I think), the alternator is ok but the battery is not holding the charge (as in my case).
Over 14.2v both ok.
He explained that the engine needed at least 14.2v to start, any less and nothing would happen.

I'm sure someone in the know will correct me if this is a load of bollocks but it might help someone with a similar problem!