Hope you get it sorted Malcom, as said there are a few options open to you but if you go for the plates I would stay away from the resin, Regards
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Hi John, I've viewed all the comments generated on here (thanks everyone) and think its safe to say there is not one right or wrong way of dealing with it. So, trying to strike a balance of best route versus costs. Somewhat disappointed with the response or lack of it from BMW UK Customer Services who have not even bothered to call me back, but guess that's the way it is sometimes!Originally posted by s1csl View PostComment
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Would be interesting to know how many uk csl boot floors have failed, and then repaired by BMW goodwill, Both our cars were done on goodwill, from memory repairs were done when cars had covered 50k miles " approx " so that's Two. Any body else ???Comment
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They refused to do mine about 2.5 years ago despite proving that the fault existed 5 years prior to that (the car had been stored for 5 years).Comment
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Looks like if you rag um, they crack. if you put them in storage they crack, or if you use them like a old get like me,they crack. But if you have no service history like me or extended warranty bmw will fix them for free. :blalalala: I would imagine BMW are glad to see the back of umOriginally posted by estoril View PostComment
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There was a poll on another thread somehere - back in the period when most cars were getting close to 10yrs and this was a hot topic.Originally posted by Chad View PostComment
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Must have a read back , But I guess it's just as relevant now as ever, as there are over 20 csl's up for sale at the moment, many claiming to be low mileage at crazy money , possibly never needed to have been repaired , possibly an higher mileage car with repairs already done , could be a better buy if your not in it for investment,and it's a car you have always wanted, and actually want to use :thumbs:Originally posted by JBird View PostComment
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A year ago I decided to refurbish the rear underside of my car as it had started to look a bit sorry. So as the rear subframe was coming down anyway I decided that I was going to fit the reddish plates whether my racp was cracked or not. Turned out when we cleaned it all up we found one small crack starting to appear at the front right mounting location also a few spot welds were showing signs they were parting again the left side inner arch was showing a slight part in the seam also. So it was in better condition than you could be led to believe. Basically you really need to drop the subframe out clean the whole area up access The condition then decided your course of action. You really don't need to spend a fortune fixing this issue my whole fix came to about £3000 but that included
1. The complete fitting of the reddish plates all the welding of the affected areas all rust removal then por15 .seam sealer etch primer and painting
2.all rear parts blasted and powder coated. We hand painted the diff housing and drive shafts
3.replaced rear brake lines and all the carriers for them and fuel lines.
4.replaced diff/trailing arms/subframe bushes with power flex items
5.new hubs brake shields and rear shocks including top mounts
6.new hand brake shoes and cables .
7.all fluids(diff/brakes) and gaskets.
End result was excellent and money well spent.Comment
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I also asked some questions about this some time ago:
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Reddish can sort this out for you and also get the vince bar. Check on m3forums for his contact.Comment
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The Vice bar seems an interesting option.Originally posted by 0-60Motorsports View Post
Would it need to be done with reinforcing plates? And resin as well?
Also how much does it cost and were do you buy it?
Does Redish provide it as well?
Kind regards,
AlexComment
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Hi Alx,Originally posted by Alx View Post
We (Redish) can help you with this if needed.
If going for the VinceBar, it's also worth improving the structural mounting points (under the car) of the Rear Axle Carrier Panel.
I'm not sure of the exact price of the VinceBar as it's an American product but he's on m3forum.net, as Ejaz just mentioned.
Over the past 6 years repairing E46 RACP's we've completed 8x CSL's (and approx 140x standard M3's).
The other thing to look out for is the internal cavity mount spotweld and cracks which are becoming more common.
These are even harder to diagnose, and go on to repair, than the underside of the RACPanel as they are hidden in cavities only accessible inside the car.
Check out this 49k 2004 M3 from last week:
If you need any help or have any questions just let us know and we'll be more than happy to help.
Best regards,
James RedishComment
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Thank you for your advice, James.Originally posted by JamesR View PostHi Alx,
We (Redish) can help you with this if needed.
If going for the VinceBar, it's also worth improving the structural mounting points (under the car) of the Rear Axle Carrier Panel.
I'm not sure of the exact price of the VinceBar as it's an American product but he's on m3forum.net, as Ejaz just mentioned.
Over the past 6 years repairing E46 RACP's we've completed 8x CSL's (and approx 140x standard M3's).
The other thing to look out for is the internal cavity mount spotweld and cracks which are becoming more common.
These are even harder to diagnose, and go on to repair, than the underside of the RACPanel as they are hidden in cavities only accessible inside the car.
Check out this 49k 2004 M3 from last week:
If you need any help or have any questions just let us know and we'll be more than happy to help.
Best regards,
James Redish
As I said before, if you were not this far from Switzerland, I would already have taken my CSL to Redish.
Maybe we will find a solution in the future? ;-)
My independent mechanic is quite familiar with the CSLs and he regularly checks the car.
His advice is to reinforce it, but only once the cracks appear.
Very few cars seem to suffer from this here apparently. Maybe this is due to the roads or to the fact that we are too far from the racetracks...
I will keep following this thread with great interest.
Kind regards,
AlexComment
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