As it is the season for race car pictures

[chicken]

:drool:

[s.mac]

Some nice equipment there :smokin:

[_Nathan_]

Popped the dash in to see what it'll look like, I'm happy :thumbs:

Bit of work left to do on the shell yet before paint yet though.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Looks good cage looks well built too :-D

[jibber_monkey]

AP Racing now do pedal boxes for drive by wire applications, the tilton one I bought wasn't great for leg room so AP one incoming, heated screen going in too.

Oooooo oooooo ooooooo (monkey noises)! Did you go for the AP drive by wire set up in the end? We're just about to start the build of our e46 M3 for the Kumho Championship and need a drive by wire solution as we're retaining the std ecu (mainly cos I've just sold my Motec M84). AP looks favourite as only other solution we've been able to source is OBP and the least said about that the better!

[_Nathan_]

Yes but don't think sensor output range is the same as OEM.

M84 doesn't support drive by wire anyway, or Vanos so not the best choice for an S54 regardless.

Have seen implementations with the OEM pedal linked to the AP pedal and they work well if you are keeping the OEM ECU, difficulty is making sure you get full travel.

OEM ECU in a race car is a big compromise though IMO.

[jibber_monkey]

Thanks for the super speedy response :-)

We're trying to keep things simple with std motor and ecu to get the car out for the last race of the season. depending on how we get on we'll consider management and engine options over the winter.

Given we're racing in the Kumho there doesn't appear to be much point chasing power, just need to map for torque and get the weight of the car right. Out of interest, is there anything specific that the std ecu doesn't like about racing? Heat related retardation, weird mapping issues etc?

[_Nathan_]

Just a pain in the arse to get working once you start removing bits of loom / sensors and will go to limp mode if everything not perfect or mapped out. Are you keeping ABS?

Few people have moved to throttle cable to bypass the limp by forcing the throttle open :thumbs:, just have to leave the DBW motor in place as without the sensors it goes mental.

Avoid a well known BMW tuning outfit who claim they can make it work standalone but clearly don't have a clue based on the experience of a customer. Promised the world and after many delays delivered a car that wasn't usable.

[jibber_monkey]

Hmmmmm looks like we may be in the market for an M800... Will drop you a PM tomorrow :-)

Definitely not going to keep the ABS.

[_Nathan_]

I'm keeping ABS in mine with an M190, if you have a CSL/CS unit (or a unit with the CSL/CS software) I think it is worth keeping, you just need to run 2 brake pressures + yaw sensor and the 4 wheel speeds.

CSL register discount applies but no pressure, there is a guy in ireland who can get it working ok but it is still harder to use on a race weekend in terms of seeing what is going on / logging etc.