ok, another temperature issue

[shimmy]

forgot to ask!

another little problem at Donny yesterday!

towards the end of the day my water temp started rising just into the red, after say 4-5 laps of hard driving

never went fully into the red and once you came down by 2-3% effort or slight short shift the temp was back to 2/3, and half a lap of that and it was down to 1/2

my temp guage has never ever (apart from Monza at 40 deg track temp) been above 2/3 on track so something is up.

Finally twice just when the temp was touching the red on Goddards 180deg corner my smg cog light flashed amber 3 times but went off (like a timed flash, not a faulty light)

so any ideas once again!:bigcry:

[david]

nothing strange, it's normal, BenM3 and my self at spa a few weeks ago had the same thing with 25°/27°C (77/80F°) outisde, I even got to the Red limit during that day chassing ben and Pierre with is GT3 :whistle: and to stay around the 2/3 of the jauge, we had to drive with heater full T° and full fan on with windows open...

the oil T° got over the 2/3 of the jauge, that's around 130°C, ... 266F°!!!

to lower the Temp, we use Motul Mo-coo liquid , it's increases the heat exchange with metal, and lower down the Temp around 15°C (59F°)

it's really great

hope that helps

[SpineOnABap]

Hmmm, dunno - never seen water temp rise like that! Infact never seen it move much at all, even during those 100 lap jobbies in the summer at Oulton lol.. Oil temp moved everywhere but not water - that was rock solid!

[alexk]

Guys, that's not normal.
The water temp should never increase, unless there is a problem
In your place, I would check (replace) water pump and radiator.

[shane@mbtech]

I agree. You guys have serious problems if you continue to Cain your csl on track at those temps. Stop driving hard the minute the temp starts gettin high. My temp crept up once whilst stuck in traffic and I replaced my broken viscous fan. It never budges on road or track and drive it properly on track for 20 min solid session. I'd suspect waterpump/thermostat/rad issues. Get it checked out before it bites.

[shimmy]

I agree. You guys have serious problems if you continue to Cain your csl on track at those temps. Stop driving hard the minute the temp starts gettin high. My temp crept up once whilst stuck in traffic and I replaced my broken viscous fan. It never budges on road or track and drive it properly on track for 20 min solid session. I'd suspect waterpump/thermostat/rad issues. Get it checked out before it bites.

Thanks guys, it's def not normal coz has never happened before in uk after around 40 trackdays

something changed yesterday and it needs sorting

[shane@mbtech]

Thanks guys, it's def not normal coz has never happened before in uk after around 40 trackdays

something changed yesterday and it needs sorting

If you drive whilst getting too hot it will warp the head. Let us know what they find

[david]

Well, personnally, I was first suprised too (and warried), but, by having a few laps in Csl's (and M3) with hard driving with other cars close and on the track, all of them had the water and oil temperature gone up, seen the water and the oil jauge both at 2/3 in many M3 serie E46, I got to the red limit due that I was chassing benM3 + other car by sticking to there ass in straight line, the cooler was catching directly the exhaust and engine heat and does take any fresh air at all, that's why I got too the red limit,when I saw that, I dropped the throddle, moved out on the right side, shift to 6 and drove around 60/65miles and water temp came down right away back to the 2/3 and slittly lower than the 2/3 gently.

warried, I gave a rang to 2 bmw specialist around France (as Marchal sport and Delage), they told me that it was normal to see the water temp go up on track and intense driven when you used gears 2/3/4 till 8000 often and no warries to have until you stay below the red zone and below of maximum 2/3 of the oil temp, they just told me that if that happen, to assure the best, I needed to change oil and cooling liquide often

BenM3 used Motul Mo-coo before, he saw clearly the difference since, I've not tried it yet on track.

[Bealo]

I have never seen my water temp move at all.....


Best get it checked out Shimmy, better safe than sorry.

[shane@mbtech]

Well, personnally, I was first suprised too (and warried), but, by having a few laps in Csl's (and M3) with hard driving with other cars close and on the track, all of them had the water and oil temperature gone up, seen the water and the oil jauge both at 2/3 in many M3 serie E46, I got to the red limit due that I was chassing benM3 + other car by sticking to there ass in straight line, the cooler was catching directly the exhaust and engine heat and does take any fresh air at all, that's why I got too the red limit,when I saw that, I dropped the throddle, moved out on the right side, shift to 6 and drove around 60/65miles and water temp came down right away back to the 2/3 and slittly lower than the 2/3 gently.

warried, I gave a rang to 2 bmw specialist around France (as Marchal sport and Delage), they told me that it was normal to see the water temp go up on track and intense driven when you used gears 2/3/4 till 8000 often and no warries to have until you stay below the red zone and below of maximum 2/3 of the oil temp, they just told me that if that happen, to assure the best, I needed to change oil and cooling liquide often

BenM3 used Motul Mo-coo before, he saw clearly the difference since, I've not tried it yet on track.

If your water temp is moving this much you have a fault, be it, radiator, head, stat or water pump, more likely the latter.

I would not believe what people tell you over the phone, one thing ive learnt from running my own garage is... No matter how trivial something may seem, get an expert to check it out physically themselves, not over the phone diagnosis.

The amount of customers who say " it was playing up about 2 weeks ago, but i thought it would be ok" are getting more commonplace, usually as we are loading their car off the recovery truck.

Ignorance is bliss, until it bites you in the arse.

As i stated earlier my temp guage does not budge, until one evening stuck on a car park (M6 motorway :banghead_ it started creeping up at standstill. I diagnosed fault using logic as viscous fan, when i checked the viscous fan was k-nackered. I replaced and all has been sweet since.

On track, driving flat out 100% throttle for a 20min session, my coolant temp guage does not move from halfway, my oil however gets to 125c. Is my car faulty? As yours is ok according to the bmw specialists you called.

Never ever mess about with overheating/getting hot as the fault may not rear its head for a good few miles after over heating has taken place.

[thegingerninja]

Engine temp should not move regardless of how hard you drive it. The radiator is oversized and the thermostat is in place to stop the engine from running too cold. It will be either, rad, pump or stat.
Normal for the oil to hit about 125, but shouldn't really go much more than this.

[shimmy]

So assuming it is radiator, water pump or thermostat for those of you know what prices these things are and assuming they won't be able to tell which it is, what is the most logical sequence to replace in bearing in mind cost and/or most likely failure?

My car goes into Murketts Thursday for a check up so opinions welcomed.

[Bealo]

Mine's at Murketts next monday for the biggy inspection 2.

fingers crossed your issue is a cheap one mate.

[benCSL]

When you run on track with 30 °, i think it's normal (behind porsche with her rear motor!!), i don't have the problem at Dijon Presnois, Spa, or Hocki when it's 10/20 °....

[shane@mbtech]

So assuming it is radiator, water pump or thermostat for those of you know what prices these things are and assuming they won't be able to tell which it is, what is the most logical sequence to replace in bearing in mind cost and/or most likely failure?

My car goes into Murketts Thursday for a check up so opinions welcomed.

With the symptoms you are stating cheapest easiest try is a stat, but..

If i were looking at it i would suspect water pump starting to fail, the impeller is common for braking off and causing your symptoms.

I would check rad flow, from top to bottom, running water through this is a simple check, if flow seemed ok i would then put all pipes on and check coolant pump for flow through pipes. hopefully the bm tech should be able to tell if the flow/return is not correct.

From your symptoms i would personally be checking the water pump, tell them you think it is noisy, then they should check it:thumbs: