Originally posted by mattCSLnut
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E46 CSL Subframe Strengthening
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Excellent... fingers crossed all will be well :thumbs:Originally posted by cslgirl View PostMy man is at Coopers in Sevenoaks and he has always looked after the csl - never had any probs/worries.
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My man is at Coopers in Sevenoaks and he has always looked after the csl - never had any probs/worries.
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Where are you taking it for the checks Lesa ? I ask a some dealers are less capable then others and miss the bleeding obvious :banghead:Originally posted by cslgirl View PostBringing the CSL over to the mainland this weekend/next week as the CSL is going in to be checked for any subframe cracks on Tuesday!
Hoping all is well as none were noticed last time it was looked at.
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Bringing the CSL over to the mainland this weekend/next week as the CSL is going in to be checked for any subframe cracks on Tuesday!
Hoping all is well as none were noticed last time it was looked at.
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You are right: 68kg on the front seats and 14kg in the trunk+full fuel tank
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As stated you need to have a full tank of fuel and load the boot up and front seats from memory.... I realised this when doing a full alignment on mine and had the same issue.
Steve
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Thanks, I am not a mechanic but the guys who took the measures shoud know what they do since it was Kohl Automobile (AC-Schnitzer) in Aachen (Germany).
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Where are you taking your car ? Are they mechanics or farmers ???Originally posted by Jetcat View PostHello,
I have 2 pictures in my Album.
It shows the left and right arm.
You can see that the right one can not be adjusted more.
Thanks
They need to loosen the nut on the front part of this camber bolt and turn it 90 degrees counterclockwise.
Then you will get -1.5 deg camber.
PS1 : make sure they check the elliptical washer on the front. They cannot put it wrong but I guess you can always be surprised with things...
PS2 : this bolt could tow a tanker boat. if it's stuck just cut it out and put a new one along with a new spherical joint
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Hello,
I have 2 pictures in my Album.
It shows the left and right arm.
You can see that the right one can not be adjusted more.
Thanks
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That's a bit weird.Originally posted by Jetcat View PostHello,
Does anybody have an idea how I can fix the angle of the rear tyres of my CSL?
I checked the car and according to BMW the rear angle should be -1°50"
Although they tryed to fix it, it was not possible, especially on the right side) to adjust the bar Nr 5 (see picture) to more than -0°50".
Does anybody have an idea how to fix that?
Many thanks
Can you elaborate the 'couldn't fix more than 0.5' ?
OEM it should be possible for -1.5, unless
- rear arm is bent
- the camber bolt is stuck and cannot turn
Some pics of the lower arm would help
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You can buy the TMS/Rouge adjustable arms, which should sort the problem.
First though, make sure the dealer has loaded the car correctly when doing the KDS.
The car should have a full fuel tank, & the boot & front seats should be weighted (75kg in the boot IIRC?, not sure on front seats?)
Without this loading, you'll struggle to set it correctly.
Originally posted by Jetcat View PostHello,
Does anybody have an idea how I can fix the angle of the rear tyres of my CSL?
I checked the car and according to BMW the rear angle should be -1°50"
Although they tryed to fix it, it was not possible, especially on the right side) to adjust the bar Nr 5 (see picture) to more than -0°50".
Does anybody have an idea how to fix that?
Many thanks
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M3 CSL rear tyres not enough négative angle
Hello,
Does anybody have an idea how I can fix the angle of the rear tyres of my CSL?
I checked the car and according to BMW the rear angle should be -1°50"
Although they tryed to fix it, it was not possible, especially on the right side) to adjust the bar Nr 5 (see picture) to more than -0°50".
Does anybody have an idea how to fix that?
Many thanks
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I've done one of these repairs on a car at work. I used the Turner Motorsport repair kit, but after seeing the kit I'll make my own next time.
I recall the repair coming to around £1000 over here as well. The car I repaired did have a huge crack around the o/s/f rear subframe area which is the main area. There was also a fairly substantial crack at the back of the n/s/r rear subframe mount, a less usual area for the failure but I have seen a few.
In this case its neccesary to drill at either end of the cracks to stop the spreading, and then weld the cracks shut. Instead of the resin, I opened up the chassis leg inside the rear of the car and welded the 2 skins together to increases strength.
I have a feeling I'll be doing a few more of these in years to come!!
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Yeah delighted I got it done now when I had the chance NickOriginally posted by Nikey30 View PostLooks like a top job Jeff, mine is getting booked in with MProve in the next few week, looking at your pics their work looks good.
Works out at £1000 for the strengthening plates and resin injection, then extra for stuff like new OEM subframe bushings Vic. Cheaper than a new floor anyway!Originally posted by plumber vic View PostHi Jeff
what sort of money are we talking about:whistle:
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