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    #16
    Originally posted by Pip1968 View Post
    KarbonKid, who did that for you, how much and whereabouts? I have just been posting about this on the N24 film thread and 'Looking for a CSL' thread. https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...665#post435665

    Thank you.

    Pip
    Ha, just saw your comment on the other thread after positing this.

    I installed this, a real pain getting it absolutely perfect but got there in the end and does exactly what I intended.
    Fabricating the guide tube without too aggressive a bend directing it around components is the challenge you'll face. Too harsh a bend in the guild tube and the dipstick with struggle to get in and out resulting in tip to wear and break off, falling into the sump.
    I did actually take a tonne of photos during and considered creating a template/ jig to allow the shape to be replicated but never materialised. With patients it can be done.

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      #17
      I was afraid you were going to say that. I am not definately not a fabricator not of this sort of thing. Perhaps I will try Hofor Racing :whistle: as they seem to have put something together.

      Did you just extend the original or did you fabricate an entirely new one?

      Pip

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by Pip1968 View Post
        Did you just extend the original or did you fabricate an entirely new one?

        Pip
        No & No :wink: as said an OEM M3 one was installed which comes pre-shaped for a Standard M3 so its half way there in terms of getting it to fit around a CSL Airbox.
        Its crucial to have the correct length otherwise it would not read true, so fabricating your own or extending your existing CSL guide tube is pointless.
        I brought a used one first to practice on and although it doesn't take a lot to bend the guide tube, it creases easily so you have to bend with care and theres a lot more to it than that which I wont go into.

        To give you an idea of size and shape see below.

        OEM CSL - Left/ OEM M3 - Right (before alterations).

        Comment


          #19
          Shame you did not take any after shots :whistle: . The pictures make it look like reattaching is a simple push fit, is it? If attaching is fairly simple I might be tempted. Is is an engine out job to fit or just airbox on/off (several times presumably :-D ).

          Obviously there will be a small (tiny) margin of error depending on how much you have to bend the tube ie it will be fractions shorter with more bends or larger bends. The key must also be to ensure that the same amount of dipstick sticks out proud of the end after as before :smt017.

          Pip

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Mark CSL View Post
            1.1 is the max the gauge can show so its easy to over fill as you cant tell how much is in it
            I also dont thing 0.9 to 1.1 is that much oil

            I dont know gareth but i would never recomend over filling with oil
            I believe Gareth only uses the dip stick to set the level during an oil service. I am sure he does not overfil even when setting to +1.1

            Comment


              #21
              This is very interesting, i know people fit a longer one from a std m3 but never knew what was involved, Seeing it like that now im certain there will be other ways of doing this as long as the length is exactly correct then if there is a way of securing the dipstick in place then it could be done with braided pipe onto part on a dipstick. Just an idea.

              Comment


                #22
                The secret to bending any hollow pipe is to fill the void as any plumber will tell you, they use bending springs for copper pipework.
                It's simply a question of what size spring would be required to fit inside the tube, a sink un-blocker springs to mind. :thumbs:no pun intended!

                Where's Plumber Vic when we need him?

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by 3wheels3 View Post
                  Agree and as most seem to say dipstick is more accurate than electronic reading 0.8l imo is best so as not to over fill but still be very near max.
                  Perfect on dipstick I have found is 1.0 on display.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Surely if you bend the pipe, without altering the dipstick length, the reading will be either reading too high or too low depending on which way it is bent!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by shimmy View Post
                      Surely if you bend the pipe, without altering the dipstick length, the reading will be either reading too high or too low depending on which way it is bent!
                      Pay attention Shimmy :wink: :

                      Originally posted by Pip1968 View Post
                      Obviously there will be a small (tiny) margin of error depending on how much you have to bend the tube ie it will be fractions shorter with more bends or larger bends. The key must also be to ensure that the same amount of dipstick sticks out proud of the end after as before :smt017.
                      Pip
                      Pip :smokin:

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Just do an instantaneous reading on the computer, procedure is in the manual. 0.9-1.0 is perfect IMO, 1.1 too high as said you don't know if it is overfilled. The reading is in litres over minimum ie if it says 0.5 put 0.5 in and it'll read 1.

                        Doesn't take 50 miles to update, just read the manual and do a check, the heading is quick measurement under the checking engine oil level in the csl supplement. Only thing is oil needs to be at temp.

                        I don't believe for a single minute that the difference between 0.9L over min and 1.1L over min is the sole reason for engine failures on track.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by Pip1968 View Post
                          Pay attention Shimmy :wink: :



                          Pip :smokin:
                          But why tiny?

                          3mm difference could be 0.5litres up or down!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Mike R View Post
                            For track use Gareth recommends running it at 1.1 to avoid any oil surge issues, so that is what mine runs at. He believes thar running it as low as 0.9 on track is what can cause the pump to pick up and cause oil starvation (which explains this kind of engine failure at 50k miles if used on track like this).
                            +1 on this. I ran mine at the Ring + GP circuit for two days and made sure that the oil was always 0.8, but it still suffered oil starvation, even though I had been particularly careful (no more than two hot laps, cool down on GP circuit, etc). Since the engine was fixed, I've been religious about running at 1.1.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by GregorJP View Post
                              +1 on this. I ran mine at the Ring + GP circuit for two days and made sure that the oil was always 0.8, but it still suffered oil starvation, even though I had been particularly careful (no more than two hot laps, cool down on GP circuit, etc). Since the engine was fixed, I've been religious about running at 1.1.
                              How on earth do you know when the car suffered oil starvation :smokin:


                              .

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by shimmy View Post
                                How on earth do you know when the car suffered oil starvation :smokin:


                                .
                                Precisely what I said to the warranty company.

                                :beer:

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