Oil cooler diverter valve

[Mike RT4]

Its not going to be used on a permanent basis, only on track.
Not mapped in, purely as a safety buffer. Used it on other cars with great results, and no issues.

My car will do about 2000-4000 miles per year, and the Meth will only be injected WOT, on track only.

I am willing to try it, you get nowhere without trying. :thumbs:

Have you tried it on the S54 Danny?

That makes no sense to me on a normally aspirated engine. I can only imagine you will just end up inducing misfires.

The Cossie has WI as standard, but it is ECU controlled and only comes on when Air Charge Temps exceed 44°C and the boost is above 7psi (to prevent it coming on at low rpm / and or from heat-soak). It then automatically turns off when the ACTs drop back below 38°C or the boost drops below 7psi. By using these parameters and a pair of fine 0.6mm WI jets, most of the water is evaporated in the heat-exchange process and so only steam vapour enters the engine.

The problem with using WI on an NA engine is that the ACTs aren't sufficiently high (no compression process), so you will not get the water converting to vapour in any heat exchange process, and so far more water droplets will enter the combustion process that will reduce the octane value of the fuel as well as trying to drown the spark, resulting in misfires.

[shane@mbtech]

That makes no sense to me on a normally aspirated engine. I can only imagine you will just end up inducing misfires.

The Cossie has WI as standard, but it is ECU controlled and only comes on when Air Charge Temps exceed 44°C and the boost is above 7psi (to prevent it coming on at low rpm / and or from heat-soak). It then automatically turns off when the ACTs drop back below 38°C or the boost drops below 7psi. By using these parameters and a pair of fine 0.6mm WI jets, most of the water is evaporated in the heat-exchange process and so only steam vapour enters the engine.

The problem with using WI on an NA engine is that the ACTs aren't sufficiently high (no compression process), so you will not get the water converting to vapour in any heat exchange process, and so far more water droplets will enter the combustion process that will reduce the octane value of the fuel as well as trying to drown the spark, resulting in misfires.

It's a meth mix, not just water mike.

We had great success with meth injection direct into inlet mani on Evo.

The extra ignition it was able to run was not far off race fuel. Much cooler running on engine. I will be adding after mapping. Atomisation will be fine, it's injected in a very fine mist and I will use WOT only. If it doesn't work, I'll remove it. No hardship.

They ran meth injection for years on Indy cars, NA, with great results.

[Mike RT4]

It's a meth mix, not just water mike.

We had great success with meth injection direct into inlet mani on Evo.

The extra ignition it was able to run was not far off race fuel. Much cooler running on engine. I will be adding after mapping. Atomisation will be fine, it's injected in a very fine mist and I will use WOT only. If it doesn't work, I'll remove it. No hardship.

They ran meth injection for years on Indy cars, NA, with great results.

On a turbo car (like the Evo), no bother, but I bet you will be removing it off the E46 :hahaha:.

However, I would never run it how you were on the Evo, unless it was mapped so that when the low level light for the water / meth mix bottle came on, it switched back to the standard map, as running out of the water / meth mix with the increased ignition timing doesn't bear thinking about LOL.

[shane@mbtech]

On a turbo car (like the Evo), no bother, but I bet you will be removing it off the E46 :hahaha:.

However, I would never run it how you were on the Evo, unless it was mapped so that when the low level light for the water / meth mix bottle came on, it switched back to the standard map, as running out of the water / meth mix with the increased ignition timing doesn't bear thinking about LOL.

It was fully mapped in the evo, and linked into ecu.

My reasoning on m3 is purely to keep it safe.

Many are running water/meth injection on NA with great results.

I'll keep you updated. I AM trying it, so the proof will be in the pudding.

[shimmy]

Lawsy, the heat soak issue will only turn up around 23-24 deg C so you'll have to come south to catch that sort of heat, but very very interested in the results.

The whole airflow issue inc number plate and fans is interesting and worth playing about with (does Alexxgtt run without front plate on track, as he also has experienced the heat soak overheating)

[Mike RT4]

Lawsy, the heat soak issue will only turn up around 23-24 deg C so you'll have to come south to catch that sort of heat, but very very interested in the results.

The whole airflow issue inc number plate and fans is interesting and worth playing about with (does Alexxgtt run without front plate on track, as he also has experienced the heat soak overheating)

What is this specific heat soak overheating that you talk of and how does it manifest itself?

Would a bonnet with vents help, or is that "cutter" talk LOL?

[shimmy]

What is this specific heat soak overheating that you talk of and how does it manifest itself?

Would a bonnet with vents help, or is that "cutter" talk LOL?

May well do, I have a thread started somewhere (overheating on track)

I think it's related to when the engine gets up to temps on track on a hot day, then at full throttle the heat seems to grow and oil then water climb (water would climb to red) but soon as you come off 100% throttle it drops back.

Tried a few things and sow how thing the a/c cars have restrictive airflow and fans stop running at high speeds.

Maybe vents, lifted bonnet, extra front airflow all help BUT bigger oil rad, bigger water rad, new M stat, new pump clean rad etc all do not.

[Mike RT4]

May well do, I have a thread started somewhere (overheating on track)

I think it's related to when the engine gets up to temps on track on a hot day, then at full throttle the heat seems to grow and oil then water climb (water would climb to red) but soon as you come off 100% throttle it drops back.

Tried a few things and sow how thing the a/c cars have restrictive airflow and fans stop running at high speeds.

Maybe vents, lifted bonnet, extra front airflow all help BUT bigger oil rad, bigger water rad, new M stat, new pump clean rad etc all do not.

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

[shimmy]

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

Nope, I bought a new water pump.

[shimmy]

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

But you have to drive it hard :-D

[Mike RT4]

But you have to drive it hard :-D

So I assume you have only experienced this as a passenger in your car with Lawsy driving ?

[shimmy]

So I assume you have only experienced this as a passenger in your car with Lawsy driving ?

Wrong again....Yanto told me:finga:

[adem.csl]

Shimmy does your heater blow out constant hot air in those conditions??maybe partially blocked lowering water circulation??
I haven't had any overheating issues on track.
Is your a/c condenser in good condition not all blocked up with leaves n stuff?that could restrict air flow to your rad!!

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

Shimmy- in regard to the ''running hot'' which
if I am correct was at Spa ? where cars with
almost identical set ups, in respect of Cooling,
was that some Cars after several laps and with
ambient Air Temps being above 28c ?after
several laps with high engine loads, some
cars were OK on water temp, although they
were experincing higher oil temps, but your
car and a few others ? were seeing very high
water temps and having to lift, ie reduce load
to cool engine water temps down.

I think there was another thread where somebody
was running their Heater on full to try and
pull temps back down

For sure front number plate removed, AC Rad etc
removed could all assist and might make a few degrees
difference to overall coolant temps but not the
differincies you talk about.

From what you have said I would guess that there was
a good 10 maybe 15 degree difference in coolant temps
between almost identical cars [cooling set up etc].

Based on what you have said and if I have read it
correctly in regard of the overall conditions and symptons,
then this may well be Anti Freeze related.

Example- A pressurised coolant system with 30% anti freeze to 70%
water will start to boil at least 12 degrees lower than the
same coolant system with 50% anti freeze 50% water.
The same coolant system running 70% anti freeze with
30% water, the highest mix you can run, will run well over
15 degrees more, even higher in some conditions.

While nobody knows what percentage Anti freeze the various
Cars were running, it is a fact that its the water system that
cools the thermal store [engine] so the more the water temp
rises the less effective the coolant is being, which can only be
down cooling of the rads etc or the coolant itself.

As the cars mentioned were all almost identical with same water Rad,
oil rads, std hoses etc and the fact that number plate and A/C removal
might make a few degrees difference then it does suggest
that the reason may be some cars could well have been running a much higher
concentration of Anti freeze thus running at approx 10 maybe 15
degrees lower on the water Temp Gauge, but still showing similar
higher oil temps.

If it was down to cooling air flow then there would have to
some major differincies between the cars in question
which from all accounts there is not.

Bit off topic but still related, just.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[shimmy]

Shimmy does your heater blow out constant hot air in those conditions??maybe partially blocked lowering water circulation??
I haven't had any overheating issues on track.
Is your a/c condenser in good condition not all blocked up with leaves n stuff?that could restrict air flow to your rad!!

Heater- no don't think so as I remember trying to lower temps by turning heater to FULL HOT , matrix could have been an issue but surely that would have an effect at all speeds (like many possible causes)

I had the rad and AC rad take out and cleaned inside and out, when pump, fan, stat and cooont replaced.