Oil cooler diverter valve

[Mike RT4]

The exhaust manifold as you know runs soo close to the side of the block if they are overly heating then they can transmit heAt to the engine block aiding in heating the water!!!just an idea seeing as the cooling route has been almost exhausted!!

I have the manifold on the Cossie heat treated as on track with the ALS running it can see 1100 deg C EGTs .







Perhaps it is worth doing on the CSL?

[CraigMillwardCroft]

I'm not saying you're big boned Shimmy but....







maybe there is another reason the little donkey overheats in your car?:smt102



:smt056

:smt082:smt082:smt082

[shimmy]

Gorilla could exhaust gas temps cause a problem at WOT?
I have read (WITHOUT PROOF)that certain engine remaps they run extremely high egt's from such a highly tuned map????could that be his cause??
A lot of fuel/timing/air mixture causing it to run hot??


Has shimmy had his car remapped??

Old engine had a couple, but removed and new engine never (still same issues)



Regarding nitifreeze, are we saying go to 70% antifreeze, 30% water for max cooling?


:drool:

[O'Neill]

Old engine had a couple, but removed and new engine never (still same issues)



Regarding nitifreeze, are we saying go to 70% antifreeze, 30% water for max cooling?


:drool:

Thought you had the Simpson map with de limit.

[shimmy]

Thought you had the Simpson map with de limit.

I know someone who had the Evolve map, then Simpsons map, the. evolve map, then had the maps erased and a standard BMW map put on.

Not me though.

I just have a new engine with BMW map.

[O'Neill]

I know someone who had the Evolve map, then Simpsons map, the. evolve map, then had the maps erased and a standard BMW map put on.

Not me though.

I just have a new engine with BMW map.

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good :whistle:

[shimmy]

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good :whistle:

Had to sell the shitty fuckers somehow

[alexk]

I still believe the OEM thermostat goes wrong very soon.

If you see the analysis I did here with an old and new thermostat, it is clear that the old thermostat does not open fully.
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/c...t-all-on-track

Guess what ? Last summer I had overheating issues again (even on the highway in Greece, going uphill with 160km/h and certainly not WOT).
At the same time, when the car is driven normally the water temp is moving between the center and then less than center point.
That's a failed thermostat.
I am going to change my waterpump and thermostat now.
As soon as I receive the new one, I will do a new test again and I am sure the one that I currently have in the car, has the same symptoms. Does not open fully.

So when you wonder why shimmy's car was overheating and lawsy's did not, I am sure it's the thermostat.

I personally never had oil temps higher than 120C (even in a trackday last summer with 36-37C).
I am not sure what can be the root cause. Old oil ? Bad Oil thermostat ? Not sure to be honest.

Here's my post from July 2013>
-----------
If you see a post of mine with some thermostat tests, I think the S54 thermostat design is a bit clunky and I start to believe that it develops issues over time, especially on cars that are not being driven oftenly.
If the thermostat does not open my 1-2mm, the water flow will be reduced.
-----------

[O'Neill]

Had to sell the shitty fuckers somehow

:-D:beer:

[alexk]

To add to the above.
Here's another good one for BMW. Bad quality of thermostats.
Mine is going to be warranty this time, as I have the other one less than 2 years.

[shane@mbtech]

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good :whistle:

Ask him about the 4.10 diff:notworthy:

[shimmy]

To add to the above.
Here's another good one for BMW. Bad quality of thermostats.
Mine is going to be warranty this time, as I have the other one less than 2 years.

I swapped mine for MStat and no change

[O'Neill]

Guys as alexgtt has said, it's a road car with road car refinements.

Rip out the aircon system and aircon rad, put some holes in the bonnet, remove pollen filter and seals, get rid of the rad shrouding and viscous fan then the temps should be more stable.... Maybe.

[alexk]

I swapped mine for MStat and no change

How do you know it opens fully ?

[shimmy]

How do you know it opens fully ?

Just trusting that easier to beleive both are good and working rather than both are faulty, same as oil cooler, pump, fan, HG, rads, etc etc

Always possible i have twos faulty ones but not likely.