Clutch Slur Guide

[Pooky]

Is there an all encompassing Clutch Slur guide, as having searched I cant find one?

I'm thinking of a step by step guide to make it simple for me to follow: drive it, reset, software adapts etc. before gearbox off and replacing parts?

I have a warranty but really don't want the hassle of taking it all the way back to Elms again, so where have people had it fixed successfully?

[Trawler]

Someone will be along soon to give some advise but I just drive it hard for a while every time the slur returns. It may take more than one trip to get rid of it.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Give Adem a PM he looks after a few of our cars :thumbs:

[NZ_M3]

Easy

In chronological order for diagnostics of clutch slurring.

1. Do the 50miles/h plus both paddle pull back to reset the wheel speed sensor as per owners manual.

2. Put in sport mode, warm up car and do a few redline pulls in each gear, then off sport mode and do medium load gear changes ... lastly put it in slow shift and do some carpark plodding around type gear changes so the system can learn and re-adapt. Repeat a couple of times and see if it improves. If not move on.

3. Check diagnostics clutch condition as per this thread:
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/csl-register/general/csl-technical-area/515736-how-to-test-clutch-condition-with-the-gt1

4. If all above fails, jack up car and check the linkage collar between the shift actuator and gearbox isn't rusted and seized (part 9 in diagram below) Part numbers : 25112229793 (gearshift rod collar) 23411466134 (dwell pin) 25111222451 (dwell pin locking ring) - this can cause slurring type feel as the gear becomes difficult to engage and you experience delays (thus clutch slur)



5. Next hook the car up to a diagnostic laptop (I recommend GT1 here and NOT INPA - I have had plenty of adaptation reset experience using various tools available (I own all but one in the list) - from GT1, INPA, ISTA, Autoenginuity, Autoland, Autologic ect - I can tell you for a fact that the GT1 does the adaptation the best. The reason I believe is because the GT1 was designed for our cars made during our periods. INPA has an automatic reset function which I have used a couple of times on a couple of different cars and each and every time the results have been anything but good (I believe it is the way that the software is run that causes this) - in fact once it messed up a car so badly that I had to redo the adaptation three times using the GT1 before it came right - anyways, I recommend GT1 only for clutch re-adaptation)

Short form (in correct order):
- Carry out Clutch value teach in
- carry out clutch slip teach in
- reset clutch curve




long form (in correct order):
- Adapt Transmission fully
- teach in clutch value
- clutch slip teach in
- reset longitudinal acceleration sensor
- reset clutch curve



6. If all above still don't solve the issue - I would reprogram the DME with the latest 0401 software and update the SMG control module to the latest software version.



7. If the above still doesn't resolve the issues then its time to drop the transmission and check the clutch in physical form, in particularly the following parts:



- pressure plate (Self Adjusting pressure plates can play up)
- crappy clutch release bearing wear (uneven wear? less likely but possible)
- Guide bush (part 1) below - this is common for it to wear unevenly causing it to catch on clutch engagement. Mine was replaced at low km due to uneven wear on this guide


7. If the above still don't resolve the issues, then I would start to look elsewhere on ancillary items such as the clutch slave actuator, SMG pump ect ... but that's probably getting too far removed from the original poster's question and warranty another write up.

Hope that helps.

[Pooky]

Thanks,

Exactly what I was after.

I've done the first step a couple of times, but maybe not the driving in exactly that way after so will give it another go.

Just need to find someone with the GT1 software now.

[Pooky]

Interestingly having taken the car for a run it's fine on full throttle high rev shifts with gearbox set to max. Shifts thump in, cant detect slur.

Then trying part rev part throttle shifts it slurs a lot, as though as it tries to engage clutch more gradually it's having real trouble.

Does this point to guide bush drag?

[digi]

I had the same issue. I though it was something you cannot get rid of. I was wrong.

I dunno what fixed it, but I don't have slur now no matter what.

These are things I done:

1. Found a leaking SMG actuator, replaced that
2. Replaced clutch as was fixing a RMS leak
3. Changed the 2 little gearbox springs
4. Engine mounts changed as well as oil pan gasket
5. Gearbox temp sensor replaced

My guess is that the clutch was worn, mini leak in the SMG actuator and the gearbox springs. I doubt the engine mounts (someone along time ago mentioned that due to worn engine mounts it caused slur and when he changed it, no more slur) help in my case as I did them a few weeks later as I was unable to resolve my mystery leak (now I know its the RMS and its not on right so still slight leak. Will change the whole RMS housing+seal now :banghead

But no slur, thing just hauls arse now.

[digi]

yea, if you are in there doing the clutch, replace the flywheel too. Otherwise you will get slight judder (during stop start) when the thing is heated up (hotspots). Luckily my mechanic needs to resolve the RMS so I will get a second chance. Will get a new flywheel fitted and replace any remaining serviceable item whilst I'm there.