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    Preventive Maintenance.

    Not withstanding that we get our cars serviced & checked over by our favourite mechanic, but is there anything that should be replaced before a failure leads to the car being off the road and the following expensive bill.

    For example the subject of replacing the vanos filter crops up now and again. Is this necessary?

    Never hear anything about the timing chain.

    Be interested to hear your views/advise

    #2
    Not a part change, but I get a compression test done annually (every 5k ish for me). Also oil change same interval.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Trawler
      Not withstanding that we get our cars serviced & checked over by our favourite mechanic, but is there anything that should be replaced before a failure leads to the car being off the road and the following expensive bill.

      For example the subject of replacing the vanos filter crops up now and again. Is this necessary?

      Never hear anything about the timing chain.

      Be interested to hear your views/advise

      Yanto's advice is a good start. Compression test and annual gloop change.

      This is not a recommendation just what I've changed out of the ordinary-

      Fuel Filter (silver tube under the near side of the car)
      Mine was the original so had it done

      Cush drive doughnutty rubber thingy
      Mine was original so had it replaced. 60K miles and 12 years had taken it's toll.

      We do on the whole over-service our cars and to some extent extreme preventative maintenance doesn't hold off failures.

      Despite 5 years lavishing funds and lots of TLC, mine has hit me with a big bill. Bad timing as I was on the back of a very early Insp 2 that could have waited 12 months. It never rains but it.....etc.

      The M4 is fast becoming a realistic option.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks & to anyone else that posts. Other than annual oil change & air filter being cleaned I have only replaced all the bushes front & rear. Other fluids as and when necessary, sometimes to book, other times after a track day.

        Comment


          #5
          When my car turned 60k miles I had the rod bearings and oil pump replaced. Its just something I do to all my M cars when they reach the 100k km benchmark. Gives the engine a life extension.
          When we removed the bearings I was glad I did it because they were very worn and had more or less 10k miles tops before a giant engine failure. Now, I can push it as much as I can with a clear mind.

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            #6
            I would get the connecting rod bearings and oil pump replaced/checked at 100.000km / 60.000 miles.

            Mine are about to get replaced now, actually. I am relieved that i dont have to worry about them anymore. :supz:

            Comment


              #7
              This: http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13163 ... is also worth doing as it's often overlooked.

              More frequent (than BMW recommended) engine oil & filter changes + the forgotten Vanos filter are both great preventative measures worth doing :smt023

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                #8
                There is a pretty long E46 M3 maintenance thread over on m3forum:

                http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=190111

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mattCSLnut View Post
                  This: http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13163 ... is also worth doing as it's often overlooked.

                  More frequent (than BMW recommended) engine oil & filter changes + the forgotten Vanos filter are both great preventative measures worth doing :smt023

                  Matt

                  re: main bearing and oil pump change

                  a few peeps recommend this @ 60k miles

                  Is this preventative maintenance or another example of extreme over servicing?

                  Just a thought as my car is @ Barts at the mo.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by cslsuperfan View Post
                    Matt

                    re: main bearing and oil pump change

                    a few peeps recommend this @ 60k miles

                    Is this preventative maintenance or another example of extreme over servicing?

                    Just a thought as my car is @ Barts at the mo.
                    In my case it was a piece of mind for a relatively reasonable price.
                    Based on my previous experiences and experiences of friends, in most cases of engine failure, worn rod bearings are the main reason. While at it, it is a good idea to replace the 12yr old oil pump which has worked for thousands of ours pumping tons of oil.

                    It is a not a must but a great safety measure.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by cslsuperfan View Post
                      Matt

                      re: main bearing and oil pump change

                      a few peeps recommend this @ 60k miles

                      Is this preventative maintenance or another example of extreme over servicing?

                      Just a thought as my car is @ Barts at the mo.
                      Defo preventative maintenance mate :supz: especially as you're still Tracking yours Ben :thumbs: as it's piece of mind (as Can said earlier) to get these done, but do insist on ARP bolt kit over OEM: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22...-m11-size.aspx :smokin:

                      Comment


                        #12
                        @matt

                        As far as i am concerned the engine used in the CSLs already use the newer rod bolt design which are M10x1,25 those you've linked to are replacements for the old M11 bolts. So those you've linked wouldn't fit.
                        See this link for reference:


                        The redesigned ones are pretty reliable but BMW recommends you use new bolts everytime you change your bearings because they have a one-time-use stretch design.

                        I am picking my CSL up tomorrow, i told them to keep my old bearings so i can upload some pictures of them if anybody is interested.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by select View Post
                          @matt

                          As far as i am concerned the engine used in the CSLs already use the newer rod bolt design which are M10x1,25 those you've linked to are replacements for the old M11 bolts. So those you've linked wouldn't fit.
                          See this link for reference:


                          The redesigned ones are pretty reliable but BMW recommends you use new bolts everytime you change your bearings because they have a one-time-use stretch design.

                          I am picking my CSL up tomorrow, i told them to keep my old bearings so i can upload some pictures of them if anybody is interested.
                          Sorry "select" :smt053 wrong ARP link ... these are the ones I meant :http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-22...-m10-size.aspx :thumbs: Highly regarded by race engine builders.
                          ... and I'm aware of the nature of any stretch bolt it's single use only :smt023
                          Good luck with your CSL tomorrow and I'll be interested to see the pix of your old engine bits

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mattCSLnut View Post
                            Defo preventative maintenance mate :supz: especially as you're still Tracking yours Ben :thumbs: as it's piece of mind (as Can said earlier) to get these done, but do insist on ARP bolt kit :smokin:

                            Matt

                            I've emailed Damian for a quote.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I've changed a leaking cpc valve on the side of the block.
                              Headlight level sensor arm on the front as it had seized.
                              Full Vanos rebuild using the American seals.
                              Vanos soliniod. These can get cracked circuit boards.
                              Track rods always seize up and I've replaced mine.
                              Head gasket has been swapped.
                              Plastic throttle linkages on inlet manifold had some play so I renewed those.
                              Special diff oil with friction modifier to stop the grinding sounds.
                              Rear exhaust hangers split over time.
                              Exhaust backbox flanges corrode and fail.
                              Smg Salmon relay swap
                              Alternator and battery will fail eventually

                              Just a small list of things I've done to keep cesil going strong .

                              Comment

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