Multiple Searches, Still need help! (Urgent cooling question)

[m3f_JbE36M3]

I've found most sites saying BMW stopped using the plastic impeller'd water pump in 98. Is my 99 exempt from this common problem? I'm having major cooling issues and am wondering, as I am trying to replace the cooling system entirely (on a two children, single mother budget) if I can skip/save this task till absolutely needed? Also, If I had to transport the car with a coolant leak, that doesnt overheat right away (distance traveled is less that 2 miles on flat road, to save me 150 on a tow) which way would be bes? Top down and heat on high? or no heat at all?





Thanks, everyone. BTW. I remember when I was a VW owner, and on the VwVortex forym, whenever I were to ask a technical question, I'd get attacked for not being an ASE Master Mechanic., So thanks for everything...

[m3f_fitchesbass]

metal or plastic impellers both fail regularly.


Plastic impellers disintegrate.


Metal ones the bearings fail.


I would replace no matter which one you had if it hasn't been changed in awhile.


As far as the tow situation I don't know if I would reccommend risking more damage to save money for a tow. $150 for a 2 mile tow seems expensive. Really if the car overheats or some other components are hurt you may end up causing more damage and more $$.

[m3f_baltimoreM3]

Before Bagtho tells you this, I'll start...stop driving your car until it is fixed. BMW temp gauges are a joke. The slightest degree off center could mean trouble especially if you do this on a regular basis.


What are you major cooling issues? Are you guessing your water pump is failing? What was leaking? What mechanical skills do you have?


If you do this repair yourself, water pump and thermostat - figure $150. $300 - $400 at a repair shop.

[m3f_JbE36M3]

It overheated, dripped alot of coolant, lookins like its coming from the lower radiator hose. I have plenty of mechanical experience of my Chevy's, and I did a complete teardown on a 2004 GLI 1.8T, but never touched a BMW before.


*edit* Temp guage didnt move- shut it down IMMEDIATELY and haven't touched it since. What happened was I was driving it home, a little generous on the throttle, and literally a popping noise was heard. then, I stopped at a gas station, and "Check coolant Level" appeared, and it started to smoke. With Children and a job, I havent precisely located the leak, so I figured I'd let it sit. I need the car for next weekend, and there is a place <2mi. away that someone I know owns (residential with extensive tools, a 4 post)- Thanks

[m3f_baltimoreM3]

How many miles on the car? On the waterpump?


If close to 80K miles, I would highly recommend saving up and planning on doing a waterpump and thermostat. Otherwise replace hose, fill up with BMW coolant (or match whatever you have now), and bleed. Remember these cars are a pain to bleed sometimes, use care and patience when bleeding. I usually carrying extra coolant in the trunk after bleeding, for topping off.

[m3f_JbE36M3]

Ok- from what I am Certain of, the Thermostat has been replaced- (Car has 131k) also had aluminum housing. Radiator looks BRAND new, (In contrast to the dirty motor) but I'm worried that it may be the radiator neck.

[m3f_fitchesbass]

How many miles on the car? On the waterpump?



If close to 80K miles, I would highly recommend saving up and planning on doing a waterpump and thermostat. Otherwise replace hose, fill up with BMW coolant (or match whatever you have now), and bleed. Remember these cars are a pain to bleed sometimes, use care and patience when bleeding. I usually carrying extra coolant in the trunk after bleeding, for topping off.

I would just do it 80k is in my opinion a long time on the water pumps for how unpredictable they are.



I had a metal water pump for 2 years - maybe 10k miles and the bearings seized on me -- destroying the fan blades and also most puncturing my radiator.



I wouldn't drive it as I stated before and as many will tell you. You risk being out more than $150 for a tow.

[m3f_fitchesbass]

Ok- from what I am Certain of, the Thermostat has been replaced- (Car has 131k) also had aluminum housing. Radiator looks BRAND new, (In contrast to the dirty motor) but I'm worried that it may be the radiator neck.

If you have experience with cars, replacing the cooling on this car should be easy as pie.


There are plenty of DIYs out there for all this stuff and really with online stores you can overhaul your cooling system for a good price and not worry about it happening again later. DIYing on these cars will save you a lot of money - which it looks like you would like to do (but who doesn't )


I would replace the T-stat (keep the alum housing), water pump (I would go with metal), hoses and radiator if the neck is cracked.


If you are a little apprehensive about doing the work alone for the first time someone on the forum in your area might be able to help you for a few bucks or even for free?!

[m3f_baltimoreM3]

I would just do it 80k is in my opinion a long time on the water pumps for how unpredictable they are.



I had a metal water pump for 2 years - maybe 10k miles and the bearings seized on me -- destroying the fan blades and also most puncturing my radiator.

80K miles is just the general range that our OEM pumps seem to last. 70K miles might be a better start to get a replacement unit in.



10K miles on a waterpump means you got a bad waterpump or you're using crapping coolant. Remember most people on here are daily driving these cars, which means according to your history would be changing the pump three times per year. Your case is probably very rare.

[m3f_badgtho]

I'm having major cooling issues and am wondering, if I can skip/save this task till absolutely needed? ...

the cooling system is the lifeblood of the car.



if you continue to drive it, you will be without an engine.