Originally posted by ArBrnSnpr
Originally posted by 97_4dr_5spd_m3
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I just did the clutch as well, and so has Nick... I think the diff was worste
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Nice work! I can't see in the pics so what viscosity did you use for the RP Max Gear?Comment
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nice thread? jezz get off my nuts.Originally posted by 97_4dr_5spd_m3Comment
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75w140 is recommended....Originally posted by RT Cockburn
you can use 75w90 though....Comment
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I put in 75w140 in a couple of weeks ago; just curious as to what he was usingOriginally posted by OahuMPowerComment
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Theres NO WAY lifting the diff on your back and getting the bolts started is worse than aligning the transmission. Maybe if you were using a jack the diff would be worse since you have to lift it anyway, but with no jack I'm gonna have to disagree with you Cal!Originally posted by OahuMPowerComment
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75W140Originally posted by RT Cockburn
I've been running the M1 75W140, but I decided to give this a try. Until I see any evidence that the increased viscosity of the 140 causes notable drivetrain parasitics, i'll stick with that. I don't see that happening any time soon though.
The tough part about the diff is that you have to tilt it at such an extreme angle to get it past the spare tire well. You can use a jack to support it, but at some point, you pretty much just have to get in there and dead lift the thing up and into place.Originally posted by ArBrnSnpr
With the transmission, you can really almost get it into position while it's on a jack and not have to wrestle with it that bad...provided you have the right tools.
Then again, I can't speak from experience, seeing as I just threaded some torx bolts in while Calvin dead-lifted my transmission into place on his back. It was the easiest part of the whole clutch/flywheel job for me.Comment
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Ivan,Originally posted by ivopivo11
I used a copper pipe coupler to install the balljoints the first time around. I found one that was the same diameter as the balljoint outer casing and used a hammer to tap them in with it. What I didn't realize was that the copper on the pipe coupler was kind of folding in and this created a sharp edge on the inside diameter of it. Since the impact with the hammer probably caused it to slip around a little (even though I put a larger collar around the OD to hold it steady), it put a few small nicks in the rubber boots of 3 of the balljoints. These were only noticeable when I was examining the rubber. I happened upon them when I was wiping anti-sieze off of them with a rag.
With the second set of balljoints, I didn't use a hammer. I just pushed them in with the makeshift press I made to get them out. I had no issues with this method, though it's essential that you keep everything aligned perfectly. It's tempting to get the impact gun out, but going slow with a ratchet is the safest way, even though it takes a while.
Also, it should be noted that most of the bushings on the car are designed to go in ONE DIRECTION. Many of them are symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which direction you install them...but the holes in the suspension arms are tapered on one side so the casing slides in easily and seats properly. Do NOT try and put them in the arms in the wrong direction.
With respect to pre-loading...
When you torque things down, you limit the travel of the suspension arms to the amount of rotational motion the bushings allow. This happens in 3 places; The RTA to chassis bushings, the upper control arm to subframe bushings, and the lower control arm to subframe bushings. The bushings don't change their clock positions, but the arms move. The weight of the car is more than enough to tear the rubber if you don't set the position of the arm in the correct arear before you tighten things down. We call this preloading.
The upper and lower control arms should be preloaded at ride height. The RTAB bushings have their own pre-loading procedure, and this is a pain in the ***. If you're going with poly RTABs, you don't have to worry about this.
I mentioned torquing the upper control arms with the subframe out of the car because you'll have a seriously hard time getting a wrench into the front to hold the nut in place while it's in the car. In addition, with the diff in the car, you won't be able to get a ratchet on the LCA bolts. A wrench, yes...ratchet, no.
I got my parts from a combination of the following sites:
-OEM:
www.pelicanparts.com
www.bimmerzone.com
www.mileoneparts.com
-Aftermarket:
www.bimmerworld.com
www.vorshlagmotorsports.com
Hope that helps.Comment
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Wow this is amazing. I will have to do this next year. It is one of only things left to do for suspension.. Great work!Comment
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did Ivan shoot you a PM Nick? I sent him this way from Euroteknik.com.. a local euro chicago forum....Comment
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Yea I did... I'm going to start sourcing all the parts very soon hopefully... need about $1k worth considering I already got the springs/shocks.. thanks CalOriginally posted by OahuMPowerComment
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Thanks man. Good luck with yours.Originally posted by ChuteboxeM
Yeah, I figured i'd just reply here so the info is out in public.Originally posted by OahuMPower
Good luck man. Here's some part #s for you to save you some trouble. This isn't everything I bought, but a good deal of it. I also bought new RTABs, a few bushings, balljoints, ect, shift linkage parts and stuff that aren't on here because the order confirmation emails didn't include the part #s and I don't have the time now to track them down. Hope it helps out a bit though. You may have to weed through and take out the clutch stuff.Originally posted by ivopivo11
Tischer BMW order (these are BMW part #'s):
11621744232 - Exhaust nuts - $0.68 X4
07119912524 - Exhaust bolts - $ 0.42 X4
07129900047 - Self locking nuts for drive shaft (transmission side) - $0.45 X6
07129964672 - Self locking nuts for drive shaft (diff side) - $0.28 X4
07129946401 - Self locking nuts for drive shaft center support - $.045 X2
18101405737 - Exhaust gaskets (Asbestos free) - $9.10 X2
33101214099 - Rear diff input shaft flange seal - $13.50
33176760337 - Rear diff front mounting bolt (the infamous diff bolt) - $1.41
35211158290 - Clutch pedal bushings - $1.18 X2
23211490120 - Rear diff input shaft lock plate - $1.10
33121200284 - Rear diff input shaft dust cover - $1.84
----Total Price: $47.53
Bimmerworld order:
Powerflex rear subframe bushings - $139
E36 lifetime rear shock mounts - $39
Brake light switch - $19
----Total Price: $199
eBay clutch kit order (Gripforce clutches. I give them positive feedback. Good communication, quick shipping, good packing):
Sachs OEM clutch disc
Sachs OEM pressure plate
Sachs OEM throwout bearing
Sachs OEM pilot bearing
Clutch disc alignment tool
This is Sachs clutch kit part #K7023801, and they threw in the alignment tool and the pilot bearing. This is the OEM clutch kit, and the one you get from pretty much every common BMW parts vendor. I just got it a little cheaper on eBay.
----Total Price: $275
Pelican Parts Order (these are Pelicans part #'s):
21-52-6-766-277-M33 - Clutch Slave Cylinder - $63.75
25-11-1-469-397-M92 - Shift handle ball cup bushing - $5.00
25-11-7-507-695-M9 - Shifter arm bushing attaches to transmission - $4.00
25-11-1-222-015-M9 - Shifter Arm Plastic Bushing attaches to chassis - $20.50
25-11-1-222-451-M9 - Pin retaining clip - $0.50
11-14-1-432-240-M30 - Gasket, Rear Crankshaft Seal Housing - $2.00
11-14-2-249-533-M104 - Rear Main Seal - $24.00
26-11-7-526-611-M104 - Guide Bushing for Drive Shaft Centering Sleeve - $9.75
23-12-1-282-394-M30 - Selector Rod Seal - $3.00
23-12-1-222-771-M175 - Transmission Output Shaft Seal - $2.25
21-51-1-223-328-M200 - Pivot Pin for Clutch Fork Lever - $1.50
22-31-6-771-219-M65 - Transmission Mount, Left or Right - $26.00 X2
26-11-2-226-527-M57 - Flex Disc (guibo)- $98.00
33-10-7-505-602-M213 - Differential Output Flange Seal - @15.50 X2
----Total Price: $275.75
Pelican Parts Order (these are Pelicans part #'s):
07-12-9-900-047 Lock Nut x 3
18-30-1-737-774 Copper Lock Nut, 10mm Exhaust Flange x 4
26-12-2-227-278 Center Support with Bearing Assembly
33-17-1-134-910 Differential Mount, Front of Rear Subframe
33-31-9-059-300 Axle Carrier Mount Set (60.5 mm), Front of Rear Subframe
33-31-9-059-301 Axle Carrier Mount Set (62.5 mm), Rear of Rear Subframe
33-32-1-092-247 Inner Bushing on Rear Upper Control Arm x2
33-32-6-770-824 Inner Bushing on Rear Lower Control Arm x2
33-32-6-775-551 Outer Bushing on Rear Upper Control Arm x2Comment
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good post Nick.. I actually used pieces of that list for my clutch install as wellComment
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Damn, you just did exactly what I need to do to my rear...Comment
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what everyone needs to do with more than 80-90K ...Originally posted by Sirius
the RTABS, RSM's, and 4 ball joints at a minimum..
the more rear end refreshes I do, the more I realize that the ball joints go bad just as much as the RTAB/RSM's and REALLY make a difference with new OEM onesComment
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