Another booty refurb (56K, you fail)

[m3f_Roland H]

what everyone needs to do with more than 80-90K ...



the RTABS, RSM's, and 4 ball joints at a minimum..



the more rear end refreshes I do, the more I realize that the ball joints go bad just as much as the RTAB/RSM's and REALLY make a difference with new OEM ones

[m3f_fiveightandten]

My ball joints were by far the parts that showed the most wear. My RTABs and subframe bushings were actually fine. The RTABs showed very minimal separation and/or dry cracking. The balljoints were loose as hell.


FYI for anyone ordering from Pelican. Do NOT blindly order the outer ball joints (aka "bushings") from them, as they list the lower ones as being bushings and will send you rubber bushings from the earlier design, as opposed to ball joints (ask me how I know this ). The part number for the upper and lower ball joints is/are the same, and it's 33326775551 (BMW p/n).

[m3f_OahuMPower]

FYI for anyone ordering from Pelican. Do NOT blindly order the outer ball joints (aka "bushings") from them, as they list the lower ones as being bushings and will send you rubber bushings from the earlier design, as opposed to ball joints (ask me how I know this ). The part number for the upper and lower ball joints is/are the same, and it's 33326775551 (BMW p/n).

another great NOTE Nick

[m3f_Titan 3]

Nice clean up!

[m3f_MOTRSPRT]

My ball joints were by far the parts that showed the most wear. My RTABs and subframe bushings were actually fine. The RTABs showed very minimal separation and/or dry cracking. The balljoints were loose as hell.



FYI for anyone ordering from Pelican. Do NOT blindly order the outer ball joints (aka "bushings") from them, as they list the lower ones as being bushings and will send you rubber bushings from the earlier design, as opposed to ball joints (ask me how I know this ). The part number for the upper and lower ball joints is/are the same, and it's 33326775551 (BMW p/n).

I would like to know how a person can diagnose bad ball joints either from driving the car or looking underneath the car. I'm curious if mine are going bad now.

[m3f_PurduinaM3]

Grab a hold of your rear LCA, if it twists and turns easily and feels loose, they are in need of replacing. Also check the boots to make sure they're not ripped.

[m3f_MOTRSPRT]

Should the car be jacked up or does it matter?

[m3f_SneauxM3]

Nice nice, always good things I read from you.



I have most of my pieces in garage, im soon to do this in the next few weeks as well. That diff does suck balls on the ground, after reading Calvin's check on his sway bar mounting tabs, i took my diff out so could drop the subframe just to look at everything. Not the most fun, but a learning experience.



Cheers man.

[m3f_MOTRSPRT]

Grab a hold of your rear LCA, if it twists and turns easily and feels loose, they are in need of replacing. Also check the boots to make sure they're not ripped.

With the car sitting on the ground they twist about 1/16", but I need to twist with a reasonable amount of force to do it. It's definitely not a 2-finger twist, but rather my whole hand, forearm, and bicep. They don't really feel "loose".



I should probably start another thread...

[m3f_pauliannella]

exp +3

[m3f_EastBayBimmer]

Nice job! I'm getting ready to do the ball joints and control arm bushings. What did you use to press the ball joints and bushings in? Is there a kit or did you make something?

[m3f_WK446]

fiveightandten: Great photos and writeup! Thanks for sharing!

[m3f_Porschetech]

nice one nick.......great job