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Purchasing a high mileage '98

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    Purchasing a high mileage '98

    Hey all,



    I'm new to the M3 world and this forum, but I've owned three 3's and a 2002 so I definitely love me my BMW. I've been wanting to get an M3 for a long time, and I think now is as good a time as any. I'm really glad I found this board too, it's you e36 guys that really convinced me which model to go for!



    Anyways, down to business. I've been looking for a 3/4/5 that's as unmolested (or tastefully done) as possible. I've seen a few so far, but I just found a local guy selling an absolutely stunning 98, basically exactly what I'm looking for. Except, the clock just hit 200k. The car itself is near flawless inside and out, looks basically brand new with surprisingly little wear. It's had only one owner, garaged since day one. I read through all the stickies on this page and knew what to ask the guy, seems like most every problem area has been dealt with, ie coolant system entirely replaced 12k ago. Fca and rtab done recently. Rear shock towers reinforced. You get the picture.



    My main question is: when does the engine internally start falling apart? I figure the timing chain should be replaced before 250k or so to be safe, possibly vanos too? What else inside the engine is prone to fail when the car has gone this far?



    The price on the car will be between 2 and 3k less than what I budgeted for the purchase. I figure I'd easily be able to put that into rebuilding the engine once it needs it and have a car that'll go forever. And since most the low mileage cars haven't had a lot of the same preventative stuff done, and I don't mind cracking open the engine and doing the work myself, it seems that it's a worthwhile deal.



    What does everyone here think about it? Any worries you have about a really high mile engine? What don't I know about that's gonna bite me in the ass on it?



    Thanks!

    Chris

    #2
    Call these guys http://www.metricmechanic.com see if they will rebuild it for you, rebuilds can be very pricey on these cars, you may be better off finding yourself a nice low mileage engine at some point.. I would also have a compression test on each cylinder, if the owner used a good synthetic oil and changed it like he should have you may be fine for another 100k hard to say.. but a good used low mileage motor with install will be under $5k... you can also stick a small block LS1 in it to ..LOL Good Luck!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ///Chris
      Hey all,


      I'm new to the M3 world and this forum, but I've owned three 3's and a 2002 so I definitely love me my BMW. I've been wanting to get an M3 for a long time, and I think now is as good a time as any. I'm really glad I found this board too, it's you e36 guys that really convinced me which model to go for!


      Anyways, down to business. I've been looking for a 3/4/5 that's as unmolested (or tastefully done) as possible. I've seen a few so far, but I just found a local guy selling an absolutely stunning 98, basically exactly what I'm looking for. Except, the clock just hit 200k. The car itself is near flawless inside and out, looks basically brand new with surprisingly little wear. It's had only one owner, garaged since day one. I read through all the stickies on this page and knew what to ask the guy, seems like most every problem area has been dealt with, ie coolant system entirely replaced 12k ago. Fca and rtab done recently. Rear shock towers reinforced. You get the picture.


      My main question is: when does the engine internally start falling apart? I figure the timing chain should be replaced before 250k or so to be safe, possibly vanos too? What else inside the engine is prone to fail when the car has gone this far?


      The price on the car will be between 2 and 3k less than what I budgeted for the purchase. I figure I'd easily be able to put that into rebuilding the engine once it needs it and have a car that'll go forever. And since most the low mileage cars haven't had a lot of the same preventative stuff done, and I don't mind cracking open the engine and doing the work myself, it seems that it's a worthwhile deal.


      What does everyone here think about it? Any worries you have about a really high mile engine? What don't I know about that's gonna bite me in the ass on it?


      Thanks!

      Chris
      Get a really good PPI done with a leakdown test. That will tell you how much wear and tear is on the engine. How much wear and tear is on the engine depends on how hard it was driven. If the car rarely saw high RPMs the engine could have another 100k miles left in it. If it was run hard it might be time for a top end rebuild.


      I'd only pull the trigger if the car passes a PPI with flying colors and you can get it for well under $7k. Otherwise you'll be better off buying something with much lower mileage that doesn't need much worth.


      Since this is a one owner car you should be able to find out everything that has been replaced. Thats great the control arms and rtabs have been replaced. I'd also check into the items below, rotors and tires should be easy to visually inspect, ask about when the other items were last done.


      That list should include:


      -Shocks and struts


      -Brakes & Rotors


      -Tie rods


      -Tires


      -fluids, (trans, rear end, brake, Power Steering)


      -belts, tensioner, pulleys


      -full cooling system? (hoses, thermostat housing, thermostat, waterpump, radiator, expansion tank)


      -engine mounts, trans mounts, flex disk, shifter bushings


      -Clutch


      Good luck! If it is exceptionally maintained and in great condition this could be quite the value. Nobody is going to want to touch it due to the mileage so you should be able to pick it up cheap.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the replies.



        @spank, those metric mechanic guys look like they do nice stuff, but damn 10k+ for an engine, wow! I'd definitely go for finding a lower mile replacement first, it doesn't seem like they're too hard to come by, I just gotta fight off all the 318ti guys As fun as a v8 would be...lol, I'm a bit of an oem where.



        Anybody know of good mechanics in the Los Angeles/Pasadena area?



        @alan, I agree with you about the price, I was looking in the 8-9k range, and if I can get this for 5-6 with a thumbs up PPI it'd be a steal. Thanks for the list too, those are all on my plan for when I go check it out...hopefully this weekend. I do know the entire cooling system is 12k old.



        Chris

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ///Chris
          Thanks for the replies.



          @spank, those metric mechanic guys look like they do nice stuff, but damn 10k+ for an engine, wow! I'd definitely go for finding a lower mile replacement first, it doesn't seem like they're too hard to come by, I just gotta fight off all the 318ti guys As fun as a v8 would be...lol, I'm a bit of an oem where.



          Anybody know of good mechanics in the Los Angeles/Pasadena area?



          @alan, I agree with you about the price, I was looking in the 8-9k range, and if I can get this for 5-6 with a thumbs up PPI it'd be a steal. Thanks for the list too, those are all on my plan for when I go check it out...hopefully this weekend. I do know the entire cooling system is 12k old.



          Chris
          For a price point, a low mileage M3 that was hit hard can be had for under $3k from insurance auctions.

          Comment


            #6
            So I'm guessing you might be paying around $4,000, give or take.

            You could easily spend $2,000 immediately with maintenance.

            500 for fluids and filters

            500 for new guibo and RMFD driveshaft

            500 for new DrVanos Stg2 with upper chain and tensioner

            500 for shocks and struts



            The list grows once you have the car for a month because right now your vision is on what you know. Wait until you re-read all the maintenance records and look under the car for an hour. You'll find lots on a 200k mile car of any kind. It sounds like a good project car once you spend a total of $6000. Just be ready for more.

            Comment


              #7
              @alan, that's not a bad idea - I'll check out some local insurance auctions. Never done that before, I guess it's just as easy as looking in the classifieds?


              @egebhardt, exactly - it would turn into a good project but still be drivable right from the get-go. I comfortable and happy turning a wrench and getting my hands dirty, and with these cars there's always more.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ///Chris
                @alan, that's not a bad idea - I'll check out some local insurance auctions. Never done that before, I guess it's just as easy as looking in the classifieds?
                Depends on how the rules are in your state. In most places you'd need a license, shouldn't be too hard to find someone licensed to work out a deal with you. Check out copart.com, they are the manheim of insurance auctions.

                Comment


                  #9
                  @egebhardt, exactly - it would turn into a good project but still be drivable right from the get-go. I comfortable and happy turning a wrench and getting my hands dirty, and with these cars there's always more.
                  $7,000 would make a nice car in your situation. You do the work, of course.



                  I just paid 6000 for a 98 with 150k.

                  I knew it would be a project.

                  1000 Driver's seat re-leather

                  500 fluids filters - light bulb problems

                  600 Guibo-RMFDdriveshaft-shiftbushings

                  500 key-ins-dmv-tax

                  0 radio dim fix - wash - wax - clay - carpets



                  I just saw a 1997 M3/4/5 Sedan 5spd with 38k on it for $16k. (pictured)

                  I would have loved that, but I started thinking.

                  All the rubber and plastic wear parts and fluids and filters are going to need to be replaced there too. What would I really gain?



                  Ok. Ok. Ok. Flame On!!!! - The low-mile car would actually be worth something if kept low-mile. The 100k+ cars may never be worth more than $6k.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for all the good thoughts guys, I found a great mechanic recommended by a local BMWCCA guy, and I'm gonna take the car over to him and have him look at it this weekend. If it's all good, I'm gonna go for it and pull the trigger.



                    Hopefully you'll see me posting pics of the new baby soon!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just bought a roughed up E36 (98). Got it for a great price at an auction, but it needs work. First time M3 owner. I have no owners manual, although I have purchased one and it is on the way. Trying to perform a tune up, but am very unfamiliar with the engine. Needs coolant, where does it go?!?! What oil should I be using? (140K miles, thinking 0W/30??) Paint chipping around door, recommend self touch up paint, or should I consult a pro? Very excited about cleaning up this great car, but a little overwhelmed at this point. Looking for some guidance from experienced owners. Thanks in advance to all!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Hawaii98M3
                        Just bought a roughed up E36 (98). Got it for a great price at an auction, but it needs work. First time M3 owner. I have no owners manual, although I have purchased one and it is on the way. Trying to perform a tune up, but am very unfamiliar with the engine. Needs coolant, where does it go?!?! What oil should I be using? (140K miles, thinking 0W/30??) Paint chipping around door, recommend self touch up paint, or should I consult a pro? Very excited about cleaning up this great car, but a little overwhelmed at this point. Looking for some guidance from experienced owners. Thanks in advance to all!
                        Ummmm are you sure you shoulda bought that car?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I had a 325is with over 200k on it and it ran perfectly. Very quiet, smooth idle, normal power for the car, smooth 5-speed tranny, etc. If fluid changes and maintenance were done on schedule, it should be fine. At higher mileages, be prepared to replace things like the heater core, aux fan and engine fan clutch, HVAC blower motor, etc. These are typical high-mileage E36 replacement irems, as well as the alternator and starter which can go at any time on any car with over 200k. If you get the car for a good price, it could be a good deal for you.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Hawaii98M3
                            Just bought a roughed up E36 (98). Got it for a great price at an auction, but it needs work. First time M3 owner. I have no owners manual, although I have purchased one and it is on the way. Trying to perform a tune up, but am very unfamiliar with the engine. Needs coolant, where does it go?!?! What oil should I be using? (140K miles, thinking 0W/30??) Paint chipping around door, recommend self touch up paint, or should I consult a pro? Very excited about cleaning up this great car, but a little overwhelmed at this point. Looking for some guidance from experienced owners. Thanks in advance to all!
                            I"d have someone inspect it that knows E36 M3s and find out what you have. If this car needs tons of work or has a major issue like a blown headgasket it should go right back to the auction...



                            With the age of these cars, most of the examples that end up at auctions need lots of maintenance which is why they were traded in the first place.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Don't let the car intimidate you. These cars are relatively easy to work on.



                              You're going to want to replace the entire cooling system unless you have proof this was done recently. A BMW requires a whole new cooling system about every 80-90k miles. You could push it beyond that, but you'd also be pushing your luck. Buy all the parts and do it yourself. It's very easy. The parts will cost about $500-600 to do EVERYTHING right. Try pelicanparts.com or autohausaz.com. The important parts are radiator, expansion tank, tank cap, bleed screw (I believe this comes with a new tank), water pump, water pump pulley, thermostat, thermostat housing, 3 pulleys, both belts and new clips for the radiator (you'll likely damage the old ones taking them out)



                              You need to do this. Check for pics on the web for BMW cooling system DIY. All BMW 6 cylinders are generally the same. If you don't find an E36 M3 DIY with pics, look for an E39 one. There's tons of those, I know




                              Originally posted by Hawaii98M3
                              Just bought a roughed up E36 (98). Got it for a great price at an auction, but it needs work. First time M3 owner. I have no owners manual, although I have purchased one and it is on the way. Trying to perform a tune up, but am very unfamiliar with the engine. Needs coolant, where does it go?!?! What oil should I be using? (140K miles, thinking 0W/30??) Paint chipping around door, recommend self touch up paint, or should I consult a pro? Very excited about cleaning up this great car, but a little overwhelmed at this point. Looking for some guidance from experienced owners. Thanks in advance to all!

                              Comment

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