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**m3f_fiveightandten** · 08-30-2010, 07:25 PM

Originally posted by XSPORT652

me.....jinxing myself right now

Mine *look* fine. But you can't really get a good look at the metal without dropping the console down. I've been meaning to do this all season.

**m3f_JPoland** · 08-31-2010, 04:14 AM

I just finished doing mine this past weekend (Ok I didn't do the welding but everything else). I also installed the AKG 80A RTABs. Mine hadn't pulled out which I was really relieved about.

Pulling the consoles really isn't THAT bad. A little bit of a PITA to wrestle them around but there really isn't much to doing it. You will need to disconnect your ebrake cable AND have an alignment done after this (on the rear at least). For something you'll only have to do once, it is WAY less involved than say securing the OPN

**m3f_fiveightandten** · 08-31-2010, 04:21 AM

Originally posted by Mr Estoril

I just finished doing mine this past weekend (Ok I didn't do the welding but everything else). I also installed the AKG 80A RTABs. Mine hadn't pulled out which I was really relieved about.

Pulling the consoles really isn't THAT bad. A little bit of a PITA to wrestle them around but there really isn't much to doing it. You will need to disconnect your ebrake cable AND have an alignment done after this (on the rear at least). For something you'll only have to do once, it is WAY less involved than say securing the OPN

You didn't drop the whole arm? The impression I have from Cal and others is that there isn't enough room to work with if the arm isn't dropped out. Ie. disconnect upper and lower control arms and get the thing completely out of the way.

I know I could get in there to clean the undercoating off, but I don't weld, so i'm not sure how much of an issue it is to have the RTA right there.

**m3f_JPoland** · 08-31-2010, 05:03 AM

Originally posted by fiveightandten

You didn't drop the whole arm? The impression I have from Cal and others is that there isn't enough room to work with if the arm isn't dropped out. Ie. disconnect upper and lower control arms and get the thing completely out of the way.

I know I could get in there to clean the undercoating off, but I don't weld, so i'm not sure how much of an issue it is to have the RTA right there.

I did drop the whole arm, sorry if I indicated otherwise. You're impression is correct, IMO. It could be done without dropping the whole arm but it would be more of a PITA than just removing the arm as all one piece. I just took the arm, hub, and half shaft out as one piece.

For anyone else considering this, there are several "while you're in there" items (optional but some recommended). This all depends on how crazy you want to get but if you ever plan on rebuilding your half shafts (See Cals super crazy overhaul thread) now is the time to do it. Also a perfect opportunity to replace ball joints (recommended if you haven't already). You can also put in new rear wheel bearings (recommended depending on milage/how they feel). If you really want to go all out you can drop the rear subframe and do bushings, and rear sway bar reinforcements if you want.

If you want to do rear camber arms, you could do that now as well since it will require an alignment and the console will already be out of there.

Just some options to try and get what you want in one pass.

**m3f_cstern** · 08-31-2010, 05:09 AM

217k miles and no visible cracks at all. I replaced the RTABs about a month or so ago. Its on the list for the rear suspension overhaul though.

**m3f_jmd471** · 08-31-2010, 05:38 AM

Would using epoxy to install the plates be worth considering? Was just thinking, why add welds to a rust prone area. Plus it doesn't look like they see that much sheer force.

**m3f_OahuMPower** · 08-31-2010, 06:10 AM

Originally posted by jmd471

Would using epoxy to install the plates be worth considering? Was just thinking, why add welds to a rust prone area. Plus it doesn't look like they see that much sheer force.

I got my laugh for the day with my coffee... thank you.....

**m3f_fiveightandten** · 08-31-2010, 08:06 AM

Originally posted by jmd471

Would using epoxy to install the plates be worth considering? Was just thinking, why add welds to a rust prone area. Plus it doesn't look like they see that much sheer force.

Eh, just put some gorilla glue up there to hold everything together!

**m3f_camdinans3** · 08-31-2010, 08:27 AM

I think it took me longer to grind off the undercoating and clean the area up than it took to weld these reinforcements in. Totally worth it and absolutely ridiculous not to do if you're already replacing your rtabs.

with all the proper reinforcements done....i can sleep at night

**m3f_hencini** · 08-31-2010, 08:30 AM

Originally posted by camdinans3

I think it took me longer to grind off the undercoating and clean the area up than it took to weld these reinforcements in. Totally worth it and absolutely ridiculous not to do if you're already replacing your rtabs.

with all the proper reinforcements done....i can sleep at night

Given that I don't drive the car hard and am planning on replacing the RTABs either this winter or next spring, I'll probably wait and do them both at the same time...

How thick are the plates? Can this be done with a 110v MIG?

**m3f_shaeff** · 08-31-2010, 08:43 AM

Yes, it can be done with a 110v mig. I had the voltage fairly low on my 210A HH. If you don't get enough penetration, you can always use pure c02 rather than C25 (75% Argon, 25% c02) You get more weld penetration with pure c02.

What amperage output is your welder?

**m3f_OahuMPower** · 08-31-2010, 08:58 AM

Originally posted by camdinans3

I think it took me longer to grind off the undercoating and clean the area up than it took to weld these reinforcements in. Totally worth it and absolutely ridiculous not to do if you're already replacing your rtabs.

with all the proper reinforcements done....i can sleep at night

until you start ripping out the rear crossmember that holds the front two subframe mounts.

or...... you get the idea

**m3f_camdinans3** · 08-31-2010, 09:05 AM

Originally posted by OahuMPower

until you start ripping out the rear crossmember that holds the front two subframe mounts.

or...... you get the idea

damnit nightmares again....efff...

CES does have a SICK all new subframe with quick disconnects for dropping the diff without removing the subframe or anything else.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1458221

E46M is looking better and....oh wait....they have a class action lawsuit against subframe failures

Originally posted by hencini

Given that I don't drive the car hard and am planning on replacing the RTABs either this winter or next spring, I'll probably wait and do them both at the same time...

How thick are the plates? Can this be done with a 110v MIG?

And whether you drive it hard or not matters? rtab pocket failures happen regardless of that fact.

**m3f_hencini** · 08-31-2010, 10:36 AM

Originally posted by shaeff

Yes, it can be done with a 110v mig. I had the voltage fairly low on my 210A HH. If you don't get enough penetration, you can always use pure c02 rather than C25 (75% Argon, 25% c02) You get more weld penetration with pure c02.

What amperage output is your welder?

It's a Hobart Handler 175... Essentially a Miller machine in cheaper clothing... I've done 3/16 with it in a single pass no problem. Can't remember if I've ever done 1/4".

**m3f_hencini** · 08-31-2010, 10:45 AM

Originally posted by camdinans3

And whether you drive it hard or not matters? rtab pocket failures happen regardless of that fact.

True, but that's not my point. What I'm saying is the fact that I'm not in a high risk group (people who track, AutoX, etc.) combined with the fact that I'm planning on doing my RTABs in the next 3-6 months is my justification for not walking out to the garage and doing this project this afternoon.

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