This is something that can be done in a few hours and is pretty straight forward.
I have just done this on my replacement S50B32. the procedure for all DOHC shimmed valve springs are pretty much similar reagrdless of make, several of my previous cars required this type of adjustment. It is worth doing every 10K as it improves performance, fuel consumption and emissions.
Tools needed
General stuff: Socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, etc.
For the valve adjustment:
Micrometer (Optional), 20 piece 0.05mm to 1mm Feeler gauges, Tool for depressing the valve springs (others may have advice on what they use for this; BMW tools are usually stupidly expensive, i have access to a machine shop at work so I make my own tools up out of Al offcuts or old conrods etc as needed), needle nose pliers and a tin of compressed air.
Hardware
Shim set (The BMW shims were quite expensive, about £6 each. Some people say the fiat ones can be used and are about £1 but have never tried so can't vouch for this)
New cylinder head cover gasket.
1) Remeve the plastic spark plug cover, the igntition coils and spark plugs
2) Remove enough of plastic stuff at front of engine enough to get access to the crank pulley (my engine was out when I did this so not sure what is required to be removed here)
3) Fit a breaker bar to the crank pully bolts to be able to rotate the engine ( as the engine is out i turned it by hand when on an engine stand)
4) Remove the cylinder head cover
5) Starting a cylinder 1 rotate the crank till the cam lobes on the intake cam shaft point vertically up - using feeler gauges carefully check the clearance is between 0.18mm and 0.23 mm, rotate again so exhaust cam lobes are vertically up (exhaust shim clearances are between 0.28mm and 0.33mm)
6) If the allowed clearance is exceeded use the special tool (or equivalent), carefully depress the springs do not damage the cam lobes and remove the Shim, I then measure this with a micrometer and work out the replacement shim size for the valve and note this down. Blow out the seat area with compressed air.
7) Continue 5 and 6 for all other cylinders.
8) I then purcahsed only the shims I need as you may need up to 24.
9) Insert them shims into the seat, double check clearances with the feeler gauges and lubricate with your usual engine oil.
10) replace the cylinder head cover (new gasket) and then reinstate all the various bits removed.
If you do fancy saving yourself some cash (this cost me <£60 in parts) and doing this type of thing yourself I would suggest that you purchase the latest TIS and ETK from Ebay (about $20) I am awaiting for mine to arrive. So this may not be the exact BMW procedure but it is how I did it and it seemed to work fine however I haven't tested it yet, the engine is still out for other small tasks.
i wanted to say it s the same as S54 (which would have been readily available on a US forum) since they're basically the same motor just like ducati 4V motor specs on the 999 compared to the earlier 996 specs
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