got my RTAB pockets reinforced today

[m3f_JPoland]

I would say it is a good idea, but if lines are scribed to return the mounting points to their exact position, I think the alignment would be minimally changed. Otherwise, you could have 2 different alignments with parts in exactly the same place. Little could explain that except that alignment loads the bushing differently every time.



I would test the theory, but I am replacing the front control arms and tie rods and have dropped the cross member so I have disturbed the other end of the car. I think this would disturb the before numbers on my alignment (hopefully in a few weeks -- front subframe just reinforced, oil pan going to welder tonight for baffle, and I should be able to get to the RTAB pockets within the next two weeks).

You are affecting toe when you change the position of the RTABs. So you can try to line it back up and that may work. However, as has been said before, a slight movement of the RTA can result in a change in toe which is relatively significant. Ultimately, you risk wearing out your rear tires much faster if you don't get the position spot on and continue to drive without an alignment.

[m3f_das borgen]

I found that using a scraper to get the undercoating off made it MUCH easier and faster...Go at it with a scraper 1st and and finish off with a wire wheel for the prep work.....


When the welding is done, use a sanding disk to smooth out the surface (grinding disk doesn t work as nicely to "finish" it....)


The I sprayed and cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped down and painted finally


By the time the job was done, I counted at least a dozen pieces of metal wire in my hair (from the wire wheel) ....two of which had wedged in my scalp...it sucked

[m3f_ANT'S M3]

I found that using a scraper to get the undercoating off made it MUCH easier and faster...Go at it with a scraper 1st and and finish off with a wire wheel for the prep work.....



When the welding is done, use a sanding disk to smooth out the surface (grinding disk doesn t work as nicely to "finish" it....)



The I sprayed and cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped down and painted finally





By the time the job was done, I counted at least a dozen pieces of metal wire in my hair (from the wire wheel) ....two of which had wedged in my scalp...it sucked

lmao! same here lol

[m3f_Synenergy52]

Definitely wear safety goggles. A wire wedged in your retina is probably not fun. I wonder if the E46s require these reinforcements too?

[m3f_shaeff]

I found that using a scraper to get the undercoating off made it MUCH easier and faster...Go at it with a scraper 1st and and finish off with a wire wheel for the prep work.....


When the welding is done, use a sanding disk to smooth out the surface (grinding disk doesn t work as nicely to "finish" it....)


The I sprayed and cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped down and painted finally


By the time the job was done, I counted at least a dozen pieces of metal wire in my hair (from the wire wheel) ....two of which had wedged in my scalp...it sucked

It only took me about twenty minutes a side to clean my RTAB pockets. I used the smallest wire wheel bit on my drill. I has very, very stiff bristles and literally cuts through the undercoating with ease. Every so often I'd reverse the direction so it would keep cutting the undercoat out quickly. Safety goggles/mask are a must.


Then cleaned it up with the cup shaped one to get around the threaded inserts. Worked like a charm. The smallest bit is a life saver in this application.


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G93

[m3f_Aavi]

By the time the job was done, I counted at least a dozen pieces of metal wire in my hair (from the wire wheel) ....two of which had wedged in my scalp...it sucked

I can imagine this

[m3f_antik]

the ONLY place to get the reinforcement plates is from bimmerworld...

I just bought in to this repair and my bimmerworld plates should be en route.


However, VAC also offers a solution:

http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...kit-p1890.aspx


So... when you say BW is the ONLY solution, is that because the VACs are garbage or what?

[m3f_das borgen]

So... when you say BW is the ONLY solution, is that because the VACs are garbage or what?

they're not crap....i know some people (including club racers) who've used them and they tell me it s a single-piece solution...... I've never seen a photo of them though

[m3f_antik]

they're not crap....i know some people (including club racers) who've used them and they tell me it s a single-piece solution...... I've never seen a photo of them though

The lack of a photo was my primary reason for going with the BW solution.



The one piece design and lower costs seems appealing.

[m3f_OahuMPower]

when I made that statement, the VAC plates were an unknown commodity.


Keep a look out though, as I've talked AKG into possibly making them as well, so you can get a one stop shop for ALL the BEST E36 reinforcements from one place

[m3f_OahuMPower]

just to update this... AKG did start making the plates as well...



so you can get all the best reinforcements from one place now



http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...0Reinforcement

[m3f_M3_ATW]

just to update this... AKG did start making the plates as well...


so you can get all the best reinforcements from one place now


http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...0Reinforcement

I'm about to order these


hope they fit in there right, don't see why they wouldnt.

[m3f_Eryan36]

I'm pretty sure I've got a pocket failure on my passenger side. That AKG plate looks serious!

[m3f_hencini]

I'm pretty sure I've got a pocket failure on my passenger side. That AKG plate looks serious!

[m3f_OahuMPower]

I'm pretty sure I've got a pocket failure on my passenger side. That AKG plate looks serious!

where do u live?



I do mobile RTAB pocket reinforcement service in the Chicago area, or you can come to me



Calvin