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**m3f_OahuMPower** · 12-02-2010, 06:11 AM

just turn the entire clutch stop to the left.. everything will come out no prob...

**m3f_das borgen** · 12-02-2010, 06:32 AM

lefty loosie

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 06:34 AM

The issue with that is the rubber part and the metal disc behind it spin freely of the bolt. I can't get much rotation of the wrench behind the clutch stop. I managed to get the locking nut loose though.

**m3f_JPoland** · 12-02-2010, 07:03 AM

It sounds like you just need to figure out what size wrench will work and pick one up. The right tool can make all the difference in the world in tight spaces.

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 07:35 AM

I'm thinking a trip to harbor freight is in order. Besides that, Does anybody have any insight into the clutch issue and answers for questions 1 and 2?

**m3f_JPoland** · 12-02-2010, 08:18 AM

I don't have the Rogue clutch stop but I would wager that yes it is definitely longer and most likely thicker (that comment... ). The stock stop is pretty pithy.

I can't say that you definitely don't need any clutch stop at all but I feel pretty confident that you won't overengage a stock clutch even without any stop. If the clutch is a performance aftermarket kit then you need to be careful as you can overengage and the clutch fork can contact the pressure plate. You will hear it though if that happens.

Best way is to remove the stop, then if the point where the clutch engages is still really far from the floor, you should probably have some sort of stop to be safe (see the home made clutch stop in the DIY sticky for a cheap and quick alternative). If you're only looking at like a few inches from the floor then I think you should be ok. Listen for any nasty sounds when the pedal is down.

Recap: I think you'll be ok without one but just be observant.

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 08:38 AM

I have no idea what kind of clutch is in there. Until I get this sorted out, I may have to just remove the stop and see what happens. It seems like I don't have enough pedal travel for the clutch to fully engage with the stop in there.

I'm wondering if old brake fluid reacts to weather changes. I noticed this problem also in the summer when its really hot, but not nearly to this extent.

**m3f_hencini** · 12-02-2010, 08:45 AM

Originally posted by cstern

I have no idea what kind of clutch is in there. Until I get this sorted out, I may have to just remove the stop and see what happens. It seems like I don't have enough pedal travel for the clutch to fully engage with the stop in there.

I'm wondering if old brake fluid reacts to weather changes. I noticed this problem also in the summer when its really hot, but not nearly to this extent.

If your brake fluid is reacting to the weather, it's time to flush that bish...

No matter what, it sounds like it's definitely time to flush the system and maybe replace the master and/or slave. After I replaced my failed master cylinder, I was *amazed* by how much higher the clutch engaged.

Do you have side-to-side slop in your clutch pedal? If so, you probably need new bushings (Delrin) and might as well do the plastic pedal while you're in there. I belive that my master cylinder failed prematurely becuase of the side to side slop. It was exhibiting similar travel to yours before it went...

In the meantime, you should be totally fine running without a clutch stop. Anyway, I did it for a while and had no issues. So you could probably remove the stop as a quick fix, but it sounds like you have an issue with the system that you need to address immediately...

**m3f_JPoland** · 12-02-2010, 08:47 AM

Originally posted by cstern

I have no idea what kind of clutch is in there. Until I get this sorted out, I may have to just remove the stop and see what happens. It seems like I don't have enough pedal travel for the clutch to fully engage with the stop in there.

I'm wondering if old brake fluid reacts to weather changes. I noticed this problem also in the summer when its really hot, but not nearly to this extent.

I have heard that really old fluid in the clutch line may hinder performance some but I'm honestly not sure how substantial that is if any. Keep in mind that the clutch line draws fluid from the reservior very near the top so keeping the proper level is important.

I recall having problems with my clutch line in my old wrangler when it would get cold. The seals would contract and some air would get in. Hopefully nothing has gone bad with yours.

Just take out the stop and see what happens. This has happened to a lot of people before and removing the stop often cured the problem.

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 08:53 AM

Originally posted by hencini

If your brake fluid is reacting to the weather, it's time to flush that bish...

No matter what, it sounds like it's definitely time to flush the system and maybe replace the master and/or slave. After I replaced my failed master cylinder, I was *amazed* by how much higher the clutch engaged.

Do you have side-to-side slop in your clutch pedal? If so, you probably need new bushings (Delrin) and might as well do the plastic pedal while you're in there. I belive that my master cylinder failed prematurely becuase of the side to side slop and it was exhibiting similar travel to yours before it went...

In the meantime, you should be totally fine running without a clutch stop. Anyway, I did it for a while and had no issues. So you could probably remove the stop as a quick fix, but it sounds like you have an issue with the system that you need to address immediately...

I think I would have to agree. My pedal has side to side movements and squeaks occassionally.

I would have to assume something went wrong with the clutch system. It shifted like butter after a tranny fluid change and the z3 shifter a few weeks ago.

Sounds like a slave and flush as well as pedal and bushings. I hope that the master is ok.

**m3f_hencini** · 12-02-2010, 08:57 AM

Originally posted by cstern

I think I would have to agree. My pedal has side to side movements and squeaks occassionally.

I would have to assume something went wrong with the clutch system. It shifted like butter after a tranny fluid change and the z3 shifter a few weeks ago.

Sounds like a slave and flush as well as pedal and bushings. I hope that the master is ok.

Master isn't hard to do. You don't even have to get the car on stands. If your pedal is sloppy, I'd look at the master first.

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 09:02 AM

Clutch master is cheaper than I expected. Maybe just do it all.

Master $62

Slave ~$60

Clutch pedal $25

Bushings~$20

Fluid~$20

SS Line if I want ~$29 (but it is from uuc)

I can get it all done for under $200

**m3f_hencini** · 12-02-2010, 09:18 AM

Originally posted by cstern

Clutch master is cheaper than I expected. Maybe just do it all.

Master $62

Slave ~$60

Clutch pedal $25

Bushings~$20

Fluid~$20

SS Line if I want ~$29 (but it is from uuc)

I can get it all done for under $200

I'm not a big fan of throwing money at a problem and/or replacing parts needlessly, but it's tough to argue with those numbers. I'm guessing at least the master needs to be done, and depending on mileage/condition/frequency of flushes in the past, your slave might not be far behind...

Hell, if you're already in there doing bushings and pedal, you might as well do the master, especially if it's questionable... The way I see it, the most you'd be out is $60 for the slave done prematurely, but I guess it's cheap insurance...

I say dooooooo eeeeeeet...

**m3f_cstern** · 12-02-2010, 09:42 AM

I'm not much of a fan either, but since I have to change the fluid and Im relatively new at the process, I would rather handle it all now. It just makes sense.

I'll probably flush again when I do the brakes.

And at 221k miles, just about every part could be replaced because it is probably worn. Except the parts I already replaced.

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Rogue clutch stop and clutch issue

Rogue clutch stop and clutch issue

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