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Best Tranny Mount Reinforcement (TME's)

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    Best Tranny Mount Reinforcement (TME's)

    Doing some maintenance for my first track day and heard of the dreaded money shift problems. So I'm thinking TME's are in order. So what is best for a street car? Stock,Stock with UUC limters, UUC, Rogue?

    #2
    AKG or Rogue should be fine.

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      #3
      I've got Vorshlag 80A transmission mounts. I'd recommend replacing the motor mounts as well to limit the movement between the engine and trans. Also, slop in your shifter bushings is as big (or bigger) of a contributor to a money shift than trans mounts.

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        #4
        I would not go to red or hard poly tranny mounts unless the car is a dedicated track car. I found them objectionable for street use. The softer poly is fine.



        I agree that inconsistent or poor shiftability is often more than just tranny mounts. The motor mounts are also important (consider them as front tranny mounts if you want). The complete linkage on a stock car should be replaced, including the selector shaft bushing. The detents in the side of the tranny should be redone (requires tranny removal).

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          #5
          The reinforcement cups are only needed if you are using an OE rubber mount. Most of the better poly units do not require the cup since they are more robust than rubber. Many are also bolt-through designs and again no cup needed. All poly units will add some NVH to the car compared to rubber. If that is an issue for you the most well regarded setup seems to be the E21 OEM mounts with UUC (bite my tongue) reinforcement cups. Gives less NVH but allows less deflection. Whatever you choose make sure to do the motor mounts at the same time if they are original or otherwise old.



          BTW I run Vorshlag Red poly motor/orange poly trans mounts and they are awesome, but there is a good deal more NVH than stock (doesn't bother me).

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            #6
            how many miles? have you even looked at your tranny mounts? I'd inspect those and the motor mounts before buying anything.


            I'm at around 88k and inspected mine and they seemed fine so I left them for now (DD). Will replace with OE when the time comes.

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              #7
              I replaced my tranny mounts in both e46 + e36 with Rogue tranny mounts. Didn't notice an increase in NVH (could be just me though).



              Also changed shifter bushings, along with motor mounts.

              I definitely would recommend doing everything at once.

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                #8
                Originally posted by roarE36M3
                how many miles? have you even looked at your tranny mounts? I'd inspect those and the motor mounts before buying anything.



                I'm at around 88k and inspected mine and they seemed fine so I left them for now (DD). Will replace with OE when the time comes.
                I will post my weekly Rubber Parts PSA here:



                Rubber doesn't care about miles. It cares about age, heat cycles, and ozone exposure. A 17 year old car with 10K miles will have the rubber parts shot. The transmission and engine mounts can go bad "just sitting there". High miles usually brings temperature cycles, but if you drove the car continuously for 100K miles (60 MPH 24/7 for about 70days) the rubber wouldn't be much worse than if the car was driven a few thousand miles over the same 70 day period. It is also very difficult to inspect rubber parts since their surface condition isn't always representative of their internal condition. So, the moral of the story is, replace rubber parts as they age, not as the chassis gains miles.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by enderw88
                  I will post my weekly Rubber Parts PSA here:



                  Rubber doesn't care about miles. It cares about age, heat cycles, and ozone exposure. A 17 year old car with 10K miles will have the rubber parts shot. The transmission and engine mounts can go bad "just sitting there". High miles usually brings temperature cycles, but if you drove the car continuously for 100K miles (60 MPH 24/7 for about 70days) the rubber wouldn't be much worse than if the car was driven a few thousand miles over the same 70 day period. It is also very difficult to inspect rubber parts since their surface condition isn't always representative of their internal condition. So, the moral of the story is, replace rubber parts as they age, not as the chassis gains miles.
                  ^This +1. Anything that is hydrocarbon based is going to breakdown over time and will be accelerated by these other environmental factors.

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                    #10
                    I've replaced my tranny mounts with Rogue, they seemed very high quality and I haven't noticed any increase in vibration. Now that I think about it, I got a few days off coming up, I should replace the motor mounts as well, I haven't looked into what it entails yet, but how long do you guys usually take in replacing those?

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by falciott
                      I've replaced my tranny mounts with Rogue, they seemed very high quality and I haven't noticed any increase in vibration. Now that I think about it, I got a few days off coming up, I should replace the motor mounts as well, I haven't looked into what it entails yet, but how long do you guys usually take in replacing those?
                      I'll let you know tomorrow. I am changing mine.

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                        #12
                        I just recently changed mine for the vorshlag 95a motor mounts and 80a trans mounts, and noticed a huge increase in vibrations, but also a much better feel of shifting.

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                          #13
                          1-1.5 hours tops, thats if you have a motor lift like the one below. Remove all mount nuts (4) and lift the engine up a bit and work the engine a little side to side as you go to get the mount bracket off the mount. I have always ended up taking off one of the mount brackets (right side is easy) just to make it easier, but you don't always have to. Also, having a bunch of wobble extensions make the job much easier on the top nuts.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by white-hot
                            1-1.5 hours tops, thats if you have a motor lift like the one below. Remove all mount nuts (4) and lift the engine up a bit and work the engine a little side to side as you go to get the mount bracket off the mount. I have always ended up taking off one of the mount brackets (right side is easy) just to make it easier, but you don't always have to. Also, having a bunch of wobble extensions make the job much easier on the top nuts.
                            That's my plan, I bought that lift to help with my transmission swap, this job, and the OPN when I get around to it.

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                              #15
                              Where does one get a motor lift like that?

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