Brake caliper rebuild/replace question.

[m3f_GreenM3/4]

How do we know when is the time to replace/rebuild them?

On the same brake subject, does anyone here try the DBA T3 rotors?

They look like good quality rotors. They're about $130/piece.



Thanks,

-GT

[m3f_pbonsalb]

When they leak, when the pistons won't go back in to fit new pads because the exposed part of the pistons are too rusted, or when the protective outer piston rubber boots are torn up and you want to be proactive.



I have bought expensive rotors before. I noticed no difference in performance. Now I buy quality "blank" rotors. No holes, no swirlies, etc. Brembo, Zimmerman, Centric, etc.

[m3f_enderw88]

My car has 189K on it. I have detected no problems with the brakes. I do know there is a pronounced lip on all the rotors and the pads are near end of life, but not setting off any wear indicators. I am rebuilding all calipers with BW stainless pistons and blank rotors this weekend-ish. I would rather be proactive about this.

[m3f_tbaker474]

When they leak, when the pistons won't go back in to fit new pads because the exposed part of the pistons are too rusted, or when the protective outer piston rubber boots are torn up and you want to be proactive.



I have bought expensive rotors before. I noticed no difference in performance. Now I buy quality "blank" rotors. No holes, no swirlies, etc. Brembo, Zimmerman, Centric, etc.

All of this.



I just had to tackle this project and went with rebuilt calipers through Turner instead of doing it myself. Only $49 per caliper after the core return, which is about as cheap as buying the parts yourself.... If you need new pistons its actually cheaper. They come with literally every part replaced (seals, bleeder screw, guides, piston, carrier bracket etc...) and they are painted on top of it.

[m3f_enderw88]

All of this.



I just had to tackle this project and went with rebuilt calipers through Turner instead of doing it myself. Only $49 per caliper after the core return, which is about as cheap as buying the parts yourself.... If you need new pistons its actually cheaper. They come with literally every part replaced (seals, bleeder screw, guides, piston, carrier bracket etc...) and they are painted on top of it.

The rebuilt caliper road is definitely more economical. I just prefer to do things myself. Its my therapy.

[m3f_hencini]

I am a d-nozzle.

Yes. That's correct.

[m3f_enderw88]

Yes. That's correct.

Dude, are you hitting the sauce on a Thursday? What was that?

[m3f_white-hot]

I was wondering the same thing.

[m3f_cracky]

dba has nice rotors...



but a bit expensive. grab some brembos or centric.





and if the calipers are working leave them alone..unless youre bored and want to pro actively replace them.

[m3f_GreenM3/4]

dba has nice rotors...



but a bit expensive. grab some brembos or centric.





and if the calipers are working leave them alone..unless youre bored and want to pro actively replace them.

I replaced new Brembo oem blank rotors couple with new Axiss pads about 20K miles ago. The rotors warped and causing vibration at the wheel above 60mph when braking.

I'm not sure if it's because I didn't bed in the brake after my installation causing the vibration 20K miles later. So I don't think I will buy brembo blanks again in the future.

[m3f_cracky]

ive never had a single issue with brembo blanks across a wide variety of makes.



Which axxis pad? Generally pad deposits are the cause of vibrations. Maybe you didnt bed them properly?

[m3f_tbaker474]

I replaced new Brembo oem blank rotors couple with new Axiss pads about 20K miles ago. The rotors warped and causing vibration at the wheel above 60mph when braking.

I'm not sure if it's because I didn't bed in the brake after my installation causing the vibration 20K miles later. So I don't think I will buy brembo blanks again in the future.

ive never had a single issue with brembo blanks across a wide variety of makes.



Which axxis pad? Generally pad deposits are the cause of vibrations. Maybe you didnt bed them properly?

Looks like he didn't bed them at all.

[m3f_enderw88]

Warping is normally caused by doing a few really hard stops, then just standing on the brakes while at a stop. The exposed rotor rapidly cools, and the portion under the pads has lots of insulation keeping it hot, all that uneven thermal expansion and contraction plays hell on the rotors. You should always bed the brakes, but frankly almost no one does (imagine all of the Midas customers bedding in brakes pads on the way home!) You lose performance of the pads, but it won't cause them to warp. That is a different and driver induced problem.

[m3f_GreenM3/4]

Looks like he didn't bed them at all.

It was my mistake. I didn't bed them in at all.

For the new Brembo rotors that I just installed. I did bed them in. I took the car to 60mph and firmly applied the brake to 20mph and repeated that for about 10 times. Then I drove around for about ten mins (try not to apply too much brake during this time) to cool it down.

I have Axiss Ultimate pads.



We will see how well the Brembo blanks will hold up this time.

According to Mike Miller, he said that bedding in is not needed for street driven cars. I also think he refers to OEM rotors/pads.