Originally posted by hambone64
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Thoughts on M3 for sale
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I don't think I have ever heard of someone say HG was a wear item with a straight face. He is either lying about the reason, or stupid. Neither bodes well for the car. At least he is honest that it was changed.Originally posted by egebhardtNo. It's not a wear item until you are well over 200,000 miles. It overheated at some point. Very common.
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No.Originally posted by hambone64Any sure way to know if it will be an issue without taking it to a mechanic?
I don't know what your mechanical abilities are, if you are not sure how to check if an HG job is OK, then you will need to budget for a PPI (BTW, the answer is "leak down test"). And by "budget" I mean be prepared to spend the money on the inspection and WALK AWAY if it doesn't come out well. Lots of people seem to pay for PPIs and then promptly ignore them.
There are a lot of guys on the board that could buy a basket case E36M3 and get them in good order with only parts money spent (even that is expensive, see the link in my signature). If you are not that type, then pay the money up front for an example that won't immediately try to bond with you by forcing you to have major quality time with it in the maintenance facility of your choice.
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If a 95 was going to have a valve retainer issue, it probably already would have had it.
All M3's have the x brace nutserts, ok, I've never seen one that didn't, it might exist. But again, it should already have one..
The 95 is a more oversquare engine, therefore is revs better. (bore/stroke ratio)
They got rid of the tilt wheel, (no telescope) because of Euro crash test results.
Suspension is different than later cars, no better, no worse. It's the staggered wheels and tires that gave it more understeer.
The diff is taller, (3.15 vs a 3.23), but a 3.38 or a 3.46 takes care of that.
I have no idea if the tranny is in fact actually different, or if it just has a different part number. The later ones are rated for 320 Nm, the 95 is rated for 310.. Big whoop./ Both can handle tons of power and other parts will usually fail before the tranny.
It had a 4 spoke wheel? Mine was gone in 1999...
Like someone said, buy the best car you can find, regardless of year.
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I plan on doing 100% of the work to my car. I wouldn't say my mechanic abilities are amazing but I currently drive a VW GTI and any work that needs to be done to it is done by me. I'm perfectly fine with buying an e36 which isn't in perfect condition and fixing it up. At the same time I don't want to dump a ton of money into a car with a bad engine because it overheated. I just want to buy something in decent conditionOriginally posted by enderw88No.
I don't know what your mechanical abilities are, if you are not sure how to check if an HG job is OK, then you will need to budget for a PPI (BTW, the answer is "leak down test"). And by "budget" I mean be prepared to spend the money on the inspection and WALK AWAY if it doesn't come out well. Lots of people seem to pay for PPIs and then promptly ignore them.
There are a lot of guys on the board that could buy a basket case E36M3 and get them in good order with only parts money spent (even that is expensive, see the link in my signature). If you are not that type, then pay the money up front for an example that won't immediately try to bond with you by forcing you to have major quality time with it in the maintenance facility of your choice.
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Originally posted by hambone64I plan on doing 100% of the work to my car. I wouldn't say my mechanic abilities are amazing but I currently drive a VW GTI and any work that needs to be done to it is done by me. I'm perfectly fine with buying an e36 which isn't in perfect condition and fixing it up. At the same time I don't want to dump a ton of money into a car with a bad engine because it overheated. I just want to buy something in decent condition
Beware cars that are too cheap. It's a case of pay me now or pay me later.
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10k including the car? or excluding? I was hoping on spending 10k in total including the car... is that unrealistic? I mean of course things are bound to come up in the long run, but 10k initially for it to run smoothly without issuesOriginally posted by RichardsperryAt 145k miles, if it doesn't have a stack of recent work, just be aware you're looking at about $10k all in. One way or another. The cheaper they are, the more they usually need.
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It depends on just how nice you want to make it...Lol but yea, I'd say including the car, I'd plan for at least $10k. But then it's gonna be mechanically sound, will look presentable.
It all depends on how nice a car YOU need...
You're not getting mine for less than $17k. Some people here laugh at that, but I'd get that or more.
Lol
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new one just popped up... how much would you guys offer? it looks pretty clean.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4322633653.html
Edit: I realize the ad doesnt have the mileage... I emailed him about it so ill post it once I find out
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