ASC light stuck on

[m3f_Matt15]

I did an ASC delete a few months ago. I left the connector loose without anything plugged in so the ASC light was obvious.



However last week I realized that the electronic ASC actuator was removable from the throttle body so I took it off and plugged it in. However the light still persists. Is there some kind of reset I have to do?



Thanks in advance

[m3f_TheJDub-E36]

I did an ASC delete a few months ago. I left the connector loose without anything plugged in so the ASC light was obvious.


However last week I realized that the electronic ASC actuator was removable from the throttle body so I took it off and plugged it in. However the light still persists. Is there some kind of reset I have to do?


Thanks in advance

Pretty sure it will be on unless you have a functioning ASC system.

[m3f_Solaris99]

You just want the light to go out? Pull the bulb from the cluster.

[m3f_Nipps]

You just want the light to go out? Pull the bulb from the cluster.

I'd get some info from the more knowledgeable members before doing this, but I believe you can put a resistor on the plug so the system thinks you're ASC is working.

[m3f_TheJDub-E36]

I'd get some info from the more knowledgeable members before doing this, but I believe you can put a resistor on the plug so the system thinks you're ASC is working.

That didn't work for me, but I also don't mind the light.

[m3f_Matt15]

I may have misunderstood how it works. I thought leaving the actuator in would have disabled the light but I think there's more to it. Oh well I'll just have to live with it

[m3f_TheJDub-E36]

I may have misunderstood how it works. I thought leaving the actuator in would have disabled the light but I think there's more to it. Oh well I'll just have to live with it

It leaves it on, the light being on means off.


It's weird.

[m3f_fiveightandten]

I did an ASC delete a few months ago. I left the connector loose without anything plugged in so the ASC light was obvious.



However last week I realized that the electronic ASC actuator was removable from the throttle body so I took it off and plugged it in. However the light still persists. Is there some kind of reset I have to do?



Thanks in advance

I don't understand this sentence. Describe how things are right now in the car.



There are 3 ways people "delete" ASC:



Method 1:

Remove ASC throttle plate, leave throttle body in place.



Method 2:

Remove ASC throttle body completely.

Remove ASC throttle body actuator and replace with 10 ohm resistor



Method 3:

Remove ASC throttle body

Replace throttle body actuator with 10 ohm resistor

Unplug ASC throttle position sensor

I may have misunderstood how it works. I thought leaving the actuator in would have disabled the light but I think there's more to it. Oh well I'll just have to live with it

You're not alone in misunderstanding things. People "delete" the ASC in E36s all the time without understanding how the system works, or what they are doing. This information keeps getting passed down from the first guys that figured out how to trick the system.



I've read posts and know people that have had ABS system failure that can be attributed to ASC delete (it's not common, but does happen). ASC is linked to the DME and the system retards ignition timing, among other things.



Read the information about it in the Bentley manual (there are much more in depth technical documents from BMW floating around as well), and decide if you still want to keep it.







The theoretical performance gain is paltry, especially if you don't have any supporting intake mods. Personally, i'm fine with pressing the button to disable it when I start the car up. The system is more complex than most people think, and it's more intimately linked to the DME than most people realize when they just read some Bimmerforums ASC "delete" DIY thread and blindly follow the instructions without understanding how things work.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

Deleting it is fine and won't do any harm. I deleted mine 10 years ago. It is way too intrusive for me to use it, and I drive my car year round in NH including rain and snow. I agree it is only a small restriction on a stock car, but it gets in the way, literally of some mods, like an M50 intake manifold or a supercharger (both of which I have had). I have gradually eliminated some of the ASC junk over the years -- at first, I left the actuator plugged in but tucked under the master cylinder. Then I did the 10 ohm resistor. My light is on, showing you the ASC is off. I will pull the cluster bulb the next time the cluster comes out. I do not believe deleting the ASC will cause any ABS problems. ABS unit may fail, but that is usually due to internal wiring issues and has nothing to do with ASC. I am on the original ABS unit in my 99M3, with ASC deleted in 2005.


On my E90 M3, I did not like the traction control, either, but it is much less intrusive. I drive with it on most of the time. There is a European version that can be activated with a module change and some coding that allows much more slippage before intervention, and I can turn that version on with a steering wheel button. I actually rarely turn off traction control in that car. The E36M3 version, on the other hand, was pointless.

[m3f_95maxrider]

I don't understand this sentence. Describe how things are right now in the car.


There are 3 ways people "delete" ASC:


Method 1:

Remove ASC throttle plate, leave throttle body in place.


Method 2:

Remove ASC throttle body completely.

Remove ASC throttle body actuator and replace with 10 ohm resistor


Method 3:

Remove ASC throttle body

Replace throttle body actuator with 10 ohm resistor

Unplug ASC throttle position sensor

Sorry for the thread bump!


Hi Nick, I currently have method #1 done to my 98 M3 and am considering going to method #3. As with everyone else, I don't want to impair normal ABS function, but it sounds like the 10 ohm resistor usually takes care of that, although some people still report getting an ABS light after doing the resistor.


Do you think any of the three methods is better than the others? Alternatively, aside from reducing clutter and saving a pound or two, is there any reason to go from method #1 to #3? Just a slightly smoother intake path?


Thanks!

[m3f_zhp43867]

Sorry for the thread bump!


Hi Nick, I currently have method #1 done to my 98 M3 and am considering going to method #3. As with everyone else, I don't want to impair normal ABS function, but it sounds like the 10 ohm resistor usually takes care of that, although some people still report getting an ABS light after doing the resistor.


Do you think any of the three methods is better than the others? Alternatively, aside from reducing clutter and saving a pound or two, is there any reason to go from method #1 to #3? Just a slightly smoother intake path?


Thanks!

The interior diameter of the ASC throttle body is about 63.5mm. I say about because I've read that many places but never checked with a caliper myself. If you delete the plate and "machine" the interior a little you can get to ~64mm. This roughly matches the diameter of the stock main throttle body, which is IIRC 64.5mm.


If you do not have a big bore throttle body, the ASC throttle body is not a real restriction. The only way it is restrictive is the way in which the ASC throttle body in conjunction with the ribbed stock boot affects the smoothness of air flow. The benefit to leaving the gutted ASC throttle body in place is that the rear braking aspect of ASC still works and the ASC system believes its working. The mod makes ASC much less intrusive.


You can remove the throttle body and add a resistor to keep ABS function, but removing the secondary throttle body will entirely disable the ASC system. If the first resistor you try to maintain ABS function does not work, Google around as different people report successes with various resistors. You cannot keep the ASC system working even partially without the cable and actuator aspect of the ASC throttle body, I'm experimenting with that now.


To answer your question on method #3, if you have a larger AFM (though this isn't necessary for the gain to exist) and a BBTB like I do (Riot Racing is 68mm) the ASC throttle body is a restriction in the path. Deleting it and adding a silicon intake boot will give you (most likely) a few HP, as you are cleaning up the airflow path and deleting a bottle neck as it heads into the intake manifold.


http://www.bimmerinfo.com/ASC_Mod.htm