Oh for Pete's sake...brake circuit warning came on again

[m3f_drtwofish]

Hey all, looking for input here - my brake circuit warning light just came on two weeks after I spent a day carefully replacing the trunk harness with the OEM patch cable. Everything was carefully matched and soldered, done right, and all lights are working as they should. It's come on three times now - once a few days ago, and twice today. Any ideas where to start if I can't observe something not working properly? Just a gremlin that I have to live with?

[m3f_westopher]

How old is your brake light switch?

[m3f_Billyp7718]

From what I have read it is likely the brake light switch. I will be doing this soon as I've blade the same message come up in the past month or so.


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[m3f_drtwofish]

Two votes for the brake switch - looks like a likely candidate to me for a few bucks. I wonder if I could have mucked something up when changing the clutch pedal bushings? It's so intermittent though...

[m3f_Braymond141]

You can fix the current switch quite easily. A 240k mile switch I had just needed the contacts inside cleaned.


Switches are not expensive, but you have options.

[m3f_drtwofish]

You can fix the current switch quite easily. A 240k mile switch I had just needed the contacts inside cleaned.



Switches are not expensive, but you have options.

Sounds like a plan - any suggestions for getting the old switch out so I can clean it? I just watched Nick's video and he makes it sound impossible to remove without breaking.

[m3f_Earthwormjlm]

Sounds like a plan - any suggestions for getting the old switch out so I can clean it? I just watched Nick's video and he makes it sound impossible to remove without breaking.

First, don't bother cleaning the switch. If you break it, you are screwed until a replacement arrives, with no brake lights at all.

Just buy a replacement, they are cheap.


Do not follow any video telling you to pull so hard that the switch breaks when you remove it.

You will end up bending the metal bracket the switch clips into, then you'll spend a lot of time realigning the bracket.


This is not a job you want to be spending a lot of time doing, to reach the switch, you have to put yourself into very uncomfortable contorted positions.


Here is what the switch looks like:





Notice the red collar (might be white on some brands). To install or remove the switch, you have slide that locking collar forward, so that the side clips are free to move.

You want the switch to look like this:





If you still can't get the switch out, after moving the collar seemingly as far forward as it will go, press the brake pedal down, and slide the collar even further.

You'll hear a clicking sound, as the white plunger tip on the switch extends. The switch plunger length is adjustable, that's what the clicking is.


Install can be a ***** too, the connector portion of the switch is quite sharp. Slide the collar forward just like when removing, press the brake pedal down

(or wedge a stick between the pedal and seat), and press the switch into the bracket, noting the correct orientation. Slide the collar down to lock the switch in place.

Release the brake pedal, and make sure the pedal makes contact with the switch.

[m3f_Braymond141]

It is very easy to remove the switch without breaking it. Pull the white plunger as far as it will go, pull the red collar as far as it will go. It will now easily pop out. If it doesn't you didn't pull as far as you they can go.


Lol at the risk factor. Pull it and clean it. Pay attention to the internals of the switch.

[m3f_westopher]

I got mine out then smashed it with a hammer when I was done because it was so frustrating. It was worth paying for the new part to get that out.

[m3f_Braymond141]

I'll make a DIY in a few hours.

[m3f_drtwofish]

Thanks for all the input, everyone - I did some more poking around in the interim and decided just to order a new switch - Earthworm's right that if I f'd anything up I'd be without brake lights on my DD for a week, so I just ordered a new switch from ECS. Bray, your DIY will be appreciated if you get it made, and if I manage to get the old switch out without busting it I'll clean it up and have it as a backup. Can have rotating switches every time they fail

[m3f_bhennrich]

I got mine out then smashed it with a hammer when I was done because it was so frustrating. It was worth paying for the new part to get that out.

There have been quite a few parts on my car where I have done the same myself! Maybe I am crazy and just like to throw away money, but some things on these cars are just easier to replace with a new part and have an old one to take our frustration out on!!!

[m3f_vmbray]

Take the seat out and save some misery. Four screws. Disco the battery first or clear srs error later.


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[m3f_mr_pacman]

I just replaced my switch today.


After getting frustrated trying to take the old switch out and contorting my body, I removed the foam knee pad bolster, pulled out my dremel tool and cut the old switch. Took 30 sends.


Getting the new switch in can also be tricky. I ended up putting it in at an angle so the tab on one side was in, then I snapped the other side into place.

[m3f_drtwofish]

Take the seat out and save some misery. Four screws. Disco the battery first or clear srs error later.



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This argument seems familiar...almost like I was just having it two weeks ago when I changed my clutch pedal bushings



This is the solution I opted for then, which worked well except by grazing my steering wheel with the seat I put a gouge in the paper-thin leather