Best PSS9 settings for daily driving

[m3f_PRF3CT]

I have a 1998 Estoril Blue sedan and the car came with PSS9 coil-overs. Right now it is really stiff. What are some settings you guys use for daily driving?

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

Setting are easy.


Find a speed hump. Start from the softest setting. Keep making it stiffer until the car stops bouncing as you go over the speed hump. Basically, the springs should not compress more than 1 or 1.5 times as you go over the speed hump.


This is the way I setup coils.

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

In addition, never use the softest or stiffest setting.


The valves don't work well at that.

[m3f_M_Parallel]

I have the one click down from the stiffest setting, which feels like zero suspension travel at all.

[m3f_Magic M3]

These cars suffer from not a lot of suspension travel to begin with. Pss9s are valved pretty stiffly to begin with. Even on the lighter setting I feel that they are too stiff for most folks. I switched to TC Klines and the Carr is not nearly as stiff and does not "jar" you when you go over bumps.

[m3f_PRF3CT]

I tried one click above from soft and it feels so dang bouncy. Going to see if I can find someone to trade with for a good spring and shock combo or just sell them outright.

[m3f_daytonaviolet]

I usually have the rears at least two clicks softer then the fronts. This results in less bumpy ride.

[m3f_Speed Monkey]

Try this setting:


Front: 4

Rear: 6


On the PSS9, the lower the number, the stiffer the damper, and of course, the higher setting means a softer damper setting. Seems a bit counter intuitive, but that's the way it is. On the rear damper setting, it is surprising how a much a single "click" setting plays a crucial role in overall ride comfort. About the 2 click separation between F & R, I follow this rule of thumb also. I'm fairly tolerant of a stiff ride, but I found my limit at F:3 and R:5, a setting I used for autocross. After a week of this setting commuting to work after the autocross, I couldn't take it any more. Returning to F:4 & R:6 returned my sled to civility.


Also, the rear damper's rotary adjuster is totally exposed to the elements, unlike the front that is protected by a removable boot at the damper bottom. If the rotary adjuster does not turn with just a bit of effort, don't force it. The rotary dial has clear detents that it clicks to, when it's in working form. It the rotary knob is stuck, hit with some WD 40 or some other penetrating oil and let it work to soften up any muck and corrosion. On the rear, there is really no hash mark or indicator to alert you on what number the rotary adjustor is set to. They leave it up to common sense. So if you turn the rotary adjuster to full hard (1), this is at the 12:00 o'clock position. This being the case, I use the high noon point as the set point on the rotary adjuster and this seems correct.

[m3f_UrsusCali]

In addition, never use the softest or stiffest setting.



The valves don't work well at that.

I live in Los Angeles and had mine sitting somewhere in the middle when I first put them on. The ride was WAY too bumpy. I then switched both front and rear to the softest setting to feel out and go from there and I haven't messed with it since. That's the best setting for me IMO.

[m3f_englishtom1596q]

i had my pss9's as soft as they went and they were horrendous. they are long gone and good riddance

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

I tried one click above from soft and it feels so dang bouncy. Going to see if I can find someone to trade with for a good spring and shock combo or just sell them outright.

You need to stiffen them up a bit. That will kill the bounce.