Thanks and Yikes! $6,000 would never make sense. I can't say it will never be done but the likelihood is low at that price point. I met guy the other day who got his AW coupe (track-rat) painted for $600 from Maaco. It looked surprisingly good. That's probably a single-stage (base and clear in 1) paint job and no one would brag about it, except for the price.
Maybe I should have said "proper respray" lol
Macco uses cheap paint and commonly paints over trim. Nope.
Yes. The guy had the body stripped but they still would paint right over the trim. It's very hard to get excited about a crappy job so paint is on the distant back-burner for now.
RMeuropeon just delivered parts I ordered 30 hours ago. Bravo!
Even doing much (all) of the trim and prep work you're looking at $6-8k for a respray.
I've talked to the guys that work on (repair) Turner Motorsports cars and their quote for a full proper respray was $12K to $15K! So $6-8K sounds pretty good depending on how much prep work you're doing?
Thanks and Yikes! $6,000 would never make sense. I can't say it will never be done but the likelihood is low at that price point. I met guy the other day who got his AW coupe (track-rat) painted for $600 from Maaco. It looked surprisingly good. That's probably a single-stage (base and clear in 1) paint job and no one would brag about it, except for the price.
Originally posted by propchef
Maybe I should have said "proper respray" lol
Macco uses cheap paint and commonly paints over trim. Nope.
Originally posted by egebhardt
Yes. The guy had the body stripped but they still would paint right over the trim. It's very hard to get excited about a crappy job so paint is on the distant back-burner for now.
Couple points about Maaco.
They are a franchise and not all shops are equal.
I've seen Maacos with wonderful equipment and spray booths. I've also seen them spraying outside.
If you have a good Maaco they are receptive to what ever you want to do.
Bring the car in stripped and scuffed with your own paint. They will take care of some minor bodywork and spray your product for well under $1k.
Will the outcome be as good as a $6k-$10k paint job? Probably not, but not every car needs that either.
If the paint is cooked on a low dollar car spending $1500-$2k (using your paint quote) isn't a bad way to go.
I've talked to the guys that work on (repair) Turner Motorsports cars and their quote for a full proper respray was $12K to $15K! So $6-8K sounds pretty good depending on how much prep work you're doing?
$6k was at a local shop that did the repair work on my X5. They build hot rods and restore old Porsches for a private client. That price was for me delivering the car disassembled and windshield out and then putting back together myself. I had two other quotes that started around $8k depending on what they found under the filler. I did find someone who will shoot the original Glasurit paint.
Painting properly is a very expensive task. For my current car, I'm looking at replacing the fenders and most shops want about $300-400 per fender. I also have to do the bumper and redo the nose panel. This is me bringing in pristine brand new parts...
Does Maaco do a better job than a rattle can job by a careful DIYer? I just called my local one just to see and they want ~$200 per piece. Ouch.
When I lived in NY there was a Byznz in Long Beach. As much as I didn't/dont care for Guards/India Red, every time I saw that car I was glad my Porsche was red.
But I'm the guy who liked the yellow of my M3. Byzanz and Dakar really are love it or hate it colors. Even if it isn't a color I would want to buy, I think it is a cool AKA great color just because it is rare and different. Beats the boring silver on my 128i.
My wife is a WaterColor artist (on the side) and she explained how Byzanz Metalic 355 is a fugitive color. Fugitive means it typically fades and fails faster than other colors. Light-Fast (opposite of fugitive) colors hold up better in UV light over time. Byzanz is not a light-fast color. A lot of art colors are derived from R&D of the automotive industry which allows artists to have much better colors than they would otherwise. No matter how much money I spend on Byzanz paint, if I do at all, it is a fugitive color and needs to be kept out of the sun. Helrot experiences a similar failure. Since this car would have to sit outside, I would have to cover it religiously which is hard on the paint too. Moving on...
I did a lot of work on Friday night into Saturday:
Vanos rebuild with Beisans
Intake Spring Washer
Valve Cover Gasket (3 plugs were soaked)
Spark Plugs
AC belt (engine belt was good)
All 3 pulley wheels (bearings felt dry)
OFHG oil filter housing gasket
Then I drained the transmission pan and removed it. I bought a filter but it didn't come with a pan seal. I double-checked the RMeuropean order and it should have been in there. I could blame them but I still don't get my seal until Tuesday. Oh well. One difference between a professional shop and a DIYer is that the DIYer can take more time. Also, that 20yo gasket isn't something I'm going to risk since Pentosin ATF1 is $100 for this tranny and I don't want to drop the pan again anytime soon. I have plenty else to do while it's up in the air. I even stopped by PepBoys since they sometimes carry Monroe shocks and struts for these cars. No luck.
I'm tempted to ask if you ever sleep, but I'm afraid to know. Great progress! Are you going to do motor & trans mounts on this one or have they been done?
I'm not sleeping much lately so I may as well put that time into the car. I'll be back to normal in a week or so. As for mounts, I've got tranny mounts ready because they are cheap. The $84 for motor mounts from RMeuropean is not justifiable yet. Edit: I installed new OEM Corteco motor mounts anyway. The engine is the real value here.
I'm pulling out a lot of the interior today but I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to remove the back of the back seat. Anyone know how? It's the non-fold version and all I see is bare metal in the trunk. No fasteners from back there.
EDIT: figured it out.
I got a flat bar down in there and yanked it hard. It takes quite a yank but you won't break it. The bottom has some vertical tabs so you have to lift it a bit to get the bottom free.
The seats are out and the carpet has been shampoo'd. I'll give it 2 days to dry and then vacuum it again and put down some of the old drapes the woman gave me. I'll make a mess putting in the new black shifter console, steering wheel, headliner, etc.
$12.93
That's how much change I found once I removed the interior. My average is about $1 whenever I buy an E36 M3 so this is clearly a windfall! I'm open to suggestions as to how I should spend it.
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