Head Rebuild From Shop Question

[m3f_westopher]

I'd say more just a group of people that are used to doing work for people who don't know shit, so they aren't often held accountable. I deal with it constantly with contractors at work.

Thanks to Braymond for going out of his way to help. That's awesome to have people so willing to jump in and help those of us that aren't well versed in this stuff.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

I helped him get the wiring sorted. Vanos Solenoid and the o2 injection valve were indeed crossed up. Good way to get another $600 out of someone.

Great! Now he can enjoy the car. And stay away from that shop.



Hopefully none of the leaks indicate a bad HG job. If coolant leaks, check the hose clamp on the fitting at the drivers rear corner of the head that goes to the heater valve and the under intake manifold connections for throttle body and for expansion tank.



If there are oil leaks check the firewall end of the valve cover at the two semi circles in the middle. Also check the passenger front side of the head to block connection above the chain tensioner.

[m3f_JitteryJoe]

Got the wiring crossed up. Did not know this was possible. Learn something new every day. This forum can be a great place as evidenced on this thread.

[m3f_betrezra]

Jittery.... yup.... to be honest.. I'm just hear to 'steal' your knowledge and apply shame-less-ly to my poor tired old M car

[m3f_thirtysixnick]

That shop is scary. Hopefully these remaining issues are simple ones you can fix yourself because I have no confidence in the shop.

I helped him get the wiring sorted. Vanos Solenoid and the o2 injection valve were indeed crossed up. Good way to get another $600 out of someone.

I appreciate it! The car definitely feels better. I cleared the code at one of my friends house with his cheap code reader and it did the trick for one drive.... The second start up, as soon as I revved it passed idle it came back on. I read the code with a different, and might I say more expensive scanner, at another friends house. The code it threw was "212" which is "Vanos Mechanical Failure"

I cleared it once more, just to see if the more expensive scanner would've cleared it somehow better, and it stayed off for one drive and did the same freaking thing the next drive after.

Props Bray! Sorry if they did this on purpose..... predators.

Doubt they did it on purpose. Just another example of a shop with people who don't actually care about doing a job properly.

We're going to end up running it back to the shop sometime this week, but my dad insists on having us not pay anymore for them to fix what they already did wrong, so we'll see how it works out.

It very much does show they do not care as they left my beauty cover for the valve cover/fuel rail pretty dirty, and ALSO threw on a non-M oil cap that looks so much more ugly than the M one. Guess they misplaced my M one and cheap'd out?


ALSO: for the coolant leak, it has turned into a much slower drip only when the engine is up to full temp, but not running? There is now only one spot that I see every time I park it after driving so I'm guessing the majority of puddles from everything I originally saw was from a minor overfill earlier that day?? IDK. Either way I will be telling the shop it didn't leak and it shouldn't have a CEL. So wish me luck!

[m3f_thirtysixnick]

I'd say more just a group of people that are used to doing work for people who don't know shit, so they aren't often held accountable. I deal with it constantly with contractors at work.

Thanks to Braymond for going out of his way to help. That's awesome to have people so willing to jump in and help those of us that aren't well versed in this stuff.

My dad has said the same thing about his work, and honestly it makes so sad that things like this happen. If you don't enjoy/know or want to know what you're doing at your job, then STOP doing it.



Very glad to be a part of this forum though, especially in my noobiest times like now haha.

Great! Now he can enjoy the car. And stay away from that shop.



Hopefully none of the leaks indicate a bad HG job. If coolant leaks, check the hose clamp on the fitting at the drivers rear corner of the head that goes to the heater valve and the under intake manifold connections for throttle body and for expansion tank.



If there are oil leaks check the firewall end of the valve cover at the two semi circles in the middle. Also check the passenger front side of the head to block connection above the chain tensioner.

When I get the chance I'll hop outside and get the car up to check.

I'm going to almost try see if there's any other reason besides my car being out of time for it to throw the Vanos Mechanical failure code...

Got the wiring crossed up. Did not know this was possible. Learn something new every day. This forum can be a great place as evidenced on this thread.

Wasn't expecting it to be crossed up, but it definitely was..

Glad my thread can be used as evidence of how genuinely helpful people are here though.

[m3f_Braymond141]

VANOS mechanical failure means they timed it wrong. It needs to be fixed, you're still down on power as a result.

[m3f_thirtysixnick]

VANOS mechanical failure means they timed it wrong. It needs to be fixed, you're still down on power as a result.

How labor intensive is this???



I'm curious if they'd even do it for free due to their error, or even if they'd be able to do it at all lol.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

About 2 hours to remove valve cover, rstime and replace valve cover.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

VANOS mechanical failure means they timed it wrong. It needs to be fixed, you're still down on power as a result.

Would just a bad solenoid give this code? Or is it definitely improper timing?

[m3f_Braymond141]

Would just a bad solenoid give this code? Or is it definitely improper timing?

The code is VANOS mechanically jammed, so unfortunately it is timing.


Nick, the valve cover needs to come back off. Motor needs to be set at TDC, cam blocks installed and the exhaust sprocket loosened. Air pressure can be applied to the VANOS oil line port (remove oil line) and 12v power applied to the solenoid. 12v power on will fully extend the VANOS piston, 12v off retracts it. If the proper amount of chain travel is observed, the exhaust sprocket can be locked back down with air pressure on and 12v power off (before locking; air pressure on, solenoid cycle power on-off-on-then off and lock exhaust sprocket bolts). Work would be done at this point.



YouTube (Short URL)













If proper chain travel (min 8mm) is not observed the vanos needs to come completely off and then properly reattached.


Someone experienced can knock this out in a few hours. Not using the air tool to check VANOS operation is a sign whoever is doing it may not do it right (yes it can be done without but it's a gamble not being able to confirm before assembly).

[m3f_thirtysixnick]

The code is VANOS mechanically jammed, so unfortunately it is timing.


Nick, the valve cover needs to come back off. Motor needs to be set at TDC, cam blocks installed and the exhaust sprocket loosened. Air pressure can be applied to the VANOS oil line port (remove oil line) and 12v power applied to the solenoid. 12v power on will fully extend the VANOS piston, 12v off retracts it. If the proper amount of chain travel is observed, the exhaust sprocket can be locked back down with air pressure on and 12v power off (before locking; air pressure on, solenoid cycle power on-off-on-then off and lock exhaust sprocket bolts). Work would be done at this point.


https://youtu.be/4_LaDBaF1iQ


If proper chain travel (min 8mm) is not observed the vanos needs to come completely off and then properly reattached.


Someone experienced can knock this out in a few hours. Not using the air tool to check VANOS operation is a sign whoever is doing it may not do it right (yes it can be done without but it's a gamble not being able to confirm before assembly).

Well she's back at the shop today, with the same code it ran for last time.


Let's see how they handle all of this. If anything, I'll literally email them a link to this direct reply on this thread and maybe they'll understand how to do it.

Once again, thanks for the all tips and help.

[m3f_Braymond141]

The code you have now and the code it had when it first left the shop are not the same. One was essentially VANOS not working/detected (because it wasn't plugged in right!) and now the code is VANOS mechanical jam (because it isn't timed right). Your friends code reader description is not accurate; 212 is VANOS Mechanical Jam aka not timed correctly.


Please clarify. The codes are specific and weed out a lot of ambiguity. I wouldn't have any help to offer if they meant too much else.

[m3f_thirtysixnick]

The code you have now and the code it had when it first left the shop are not the same. One was essentially VANOS not working/detected (because it wasn't plugged in right!) and now the code is VANOS mechanical jam (because it isn't timed right). Your friends code reader description is not accurate; 212 is VANOS Mechanical Jam aka not timed correctly.



Please clarify. The codes are specific and weed out a lot of ambiguity. I wouldn't have any help to offer if they meant too much else.

It's most definitely 212, so it's the timing.

The shop contacted my dad today and said they were going to have to fix the timing and such. So I'm guessing they're now realizing they didn't need to rebuild the VANOS, but I'll take it I guess.



Supposedly getting it back tomorrow, we'll see how long it stays working right if I do get it back.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

The shop will need luck and this is their 3rd attempt at timing so hopefully you will be back on the road.