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    #1

    S52 rebuild

    What's up guys my name's Mike I own an e36 M3 and recently I've been having some misfiring issues. I've been chasing it for a couple of weeks now. I hooked it up to a computer and it said misfire on basically all cylinders. Also did a compression test. 5 cylinders read about 175 but the 4th is reading 120. The random misfire happens while on the road low Rpm even high the engine sounds like a Subaru. I changed coils and spark plugs I'm getting to the point where I just want to stop chasing this issue and just rebuild the motor. My question is what do I have to get to rebuild the motor?


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    #2
    Originally posted by CosmobmwM3
    What's up guys my name's Mike I own an e36 M3 and recently I've been having some misfiring issues. I've been chasing it for a couple of weeks now. I hooked it up to a computer and it said misfire on basically all cylinders. Also did a compression test. 5 cylinders read about 175 but the 4th is reading 120. The random misfire happens while on the road low Rpm even high the engine sounds like a Subaru. I changed coils and spark plugs I'm getting to the point where I just want to stop chasing this issue and just rebuild the motor. My question is what do I have to get to rebuild the motor?





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    You are out of your league if you came here asking this question.



    Please familiarize yourself with that thing called GOOGLE for searching, RealOEM for every part on the car, http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/ for instructions, and PelicanParts, FCPEuro, AutohausAZ for parts purchases.

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      #3
      Rebuilding the motor correctly is a big task requiring much money and time. The machine shop charges alone are going to be a couple grand (at least). Doing it yourself (correctly) is out of reach for most people due to tools, skill, time, workspace, & knowledge. You can do a half ass job for a lot less but certainly not recommended. Likely you'd be money and time ahead by taking the car to a good BMW shop and see if they can sort out the issues, or at least properly assess the issues. Could be small issues or could be you need the head done. Doing a full rebuild is a big hammer approach.

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        #4
        Originally posted by CosmobmwM3
        My question is what do I have to get to rebuild the motor?
        While my S52 w/268K miles runs fine, I'm collecting parts for a rebuild.


        I have found what I need is a high-paying IT job to support this habit.


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          #5
          Cosmo - while this motor is more complicated and requires special tools VS a sm block Chevy or Ford.... it is not rocket science.


          If you are not experienced with engine work, and/or do not have the facilities to do this.... then you might try to find another enthusiast who is local who will help you.


          OR if you have the $ then do some research on your best local option Having read a few threads here of late on rebuilds with varying levels of drama/success..... I suggest you do you homework on your selected bmw specialist.


          I'm at 177K miles..... and have a healthy oil use (while I beat on it relentlessly @ high RPM all the time)..... I'm gather my data on my options for when/if this motor decides to go south.


          One option is to pick up a used long block from a part out...... and rebuild the spare motor in my shop..... and farm out the machine work..... while my existing engine is still in the car.

          Then build up all the parts and do the deed.


          Other options I'm contemplating:

          1) E46 M3 motor swap... (very common)

          2) rebuild E36 US motor..... head only, complete motor...

          3) LS swap.... blasphemy to some..... I won't consider this until my car reaches vintage status in TX...... in a few years.... then only a safety check...


          GL.

          Comment

            #6
            If your 1 cylinder is down to 120psi you either have a blown head gasket or a stuck valve. Did you over rev the motor by chance?

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              #7
              I'm thinking an overrev event took place. Get an android snake camera and see if you have a couple of fresh crescent-shaped marks on the piston tops.

              Comment

                #8
                Sometimes you don't know until you are in there. It is likely the low compression cylinder is just a very slightly bent valve from a mechanical over rev due to a mis shift. But it is possible something broke off the valve and chewed up the head chamber or even went down the cylinder and scratched up the wall. An inspection camera might let you see, but since the head needs to come off anyway, you might as well just pull it and take a look.


                Some people have just refreshed these motors -- new bearings, hone, new rings, and had the head checked by a machine shop and whatever needed to be replaced done (maybe some guides, maybe some valves, plus a valve job and resurfacing). You can also buy a refurbished head from shops like Vac and Autohead for about $800 exchange with a good core. To fully rebuild the block you would need new pistons in an overbore size. JE, Mahle and others make them for about $750 a set with rings. You can also buy aftermarket rods from K1 or Eagle for about $500 a set. Plus bearings, freeze plugs, seals, chains etc. Oil pump rebuild also recommended. VAC and Achilles Motorsports and Bimmerworld and others sell them for about $300. Vanos rebuild is about $300 exchange or $75 DIY. Head gasket and bolts are about $100. Rather than buy seals and gaskets piecemeal, you can also look into bottom end and top end gasket kits. Some brands are better than others -- I forget which but common names are Rein and Victor Reinz and people prefer one of them. I'd let the machine shop balance the rotating assembly.


                Have fun and good luck. A full rebuild is on my list of things to do one day. I have done rod bearings and oil pumps and installed heads and cams but I have not yet done every step.


                Sometimes you can find a used built motor for a fair price.

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                  #9
                  Even the guys running boost rarely touch the bottom end. Most pull the head, clean up the pistons and block then leave it be. Refresh the head, thicker head gasket, ARP studs then boost to 500 odd hp. Point is, the bottom ends on the s52 is very stout and lasts a very long time, especially under stock power

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by pbonsalb
                    Some brands are better than others -- I forget which but common names are Rein and Victor Reinz and people prefer one of them. I'd let the machine shop balance the rotating assembly.



                    Have fun and good luck. A full rebuild is on my list of things to do one day. I have done rod bearings and oil pumps and installed heads and cams but I have not yet done every step.



                    Sometimes you can find a used built motor for a fair price.
                    I know of a well built motor having a head gasket failure shortly after the rebuild using the Victor Reinz head gasket. Strongly urge spending just that little bit more for the BMW part for this application. The engine was not shut down fast enough causing massive bottom end damage.... time for a new engine. Sucky for the owner...

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                      #11
                      How about Cometic?


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                        #12
                        Elring for every part that that is an option for, or OE BMW. Victor Reinz for non-critical areas. Went through two VR head gaskets... f**k that garbage.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by bluptgm3
                          How about Cometic?





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                          I have used cometic in forced induction applications before the cutring was available for S52 motors. The cometic does not seem to seal as well long term. Could be the forced induction pressure. I know cometic is the same design as used on many domestics so it theoretically should work. But to avoid any issues, I would use OEM or OEM equivalent for a naturally aspirated M/S50/52. You can often find out who makes the BMW gasket and buy the identical part in the aftermarket. Sometimes Bimmerworld or Pelican Parts lists the OEM.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by pbonsalb
                            I have used cometic in forced induction applications before the cutring was available for S52 motors. The cometic does not seem to seal as well long term. Could be the forced induction pressure. I know cometic is the same design as used on many domestics so it theoretically should work. But to avoid any issues, I would use OEM or OEM equivalent for a naturally aspirated M/S50/52. You can often find out who makes the BMW gasket and buy the identical part in the aftermarket. Sometimes Bimmerworld or Pelican Parts lists the OEM.
                            Cometic are about 30% more expensive than OEM, and OEM are more than double the cost of Victor Reinz, if cost is any indication of quality.

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                              #15
                              I know. I have installed 4 cometics in S52s. I would find out who makes OEM and buy that one in the aftermarket. Maybe it is elring?


                              http://www.bimmerworld.com/Engine/Ga...S52-US-M3.html

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