S52 rebuild

[m3f_tripitz]

Cometic are about 30% more expensive than OEM, and OEM are more than double the cost of Victor Reinz, if cost is any indication of quality.

This is an area as others more experienced have said where it makes sense to spend and buy the right part. The engine I am referencing was a brand new build; he couldn't get the OEM part fast enough for an event and opted to complete the build with the VR gasket. The gasket failed pretty quickly... Unlikely the mechanic messed up as he builds S5X motors fairly regularly...

[m3f_MaynardZed]

I'm in the midst of this decision process also gentlemen. I blew up my race car's S52 last weekend. Broke off an exhaust valve and punched a hole through the number 2 piston. Top end rebuild won't save this one this time.



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Weighing my options, but will likely just put another salvage yard S52 in it. Getting an accurate weight on my race car today which will help me make a decision. Aiming for 11.67 / 1 weight to power so I don't need much more than 230-240 rwhp.



Several other options to consider for me. All of which are more $.



1) Shop owner has a good S52 there with cams in it. Put down 260 rwhp in previous car before crash. Owner dragging his feet on selling it to me since he wants to put it in his own race car (to race against me, mind you). He's asking $3K for it, probably so I'll stop bugging him about it. He made the mistake of mentioning it to me.



2) A built S52. Could easily be upwards of $10K and more. Time crunch to have it ready by Labor day weekend could be an issue to. I like the idea of doing a solid lifter conversion but we'd be really stretching the budget and motor design.



3) S54 swap with detune. I think these can be turned down to 250 rwhp and would be a nice safe motor to run for a long time. If money was no object this would be the way to go. $8-10K for the swap all in, plus really should do a Motec would add another $4K.

[m3f_zhp43867]

Elring for every part that that is an option for, or OE BMW. Victor Reinz for non-critical areas. Went through two VR head gaskets... f**k that garbage.

+1 Don't use Victor Reinz for anything. Even their oil filter housing and valve cover gaskets leak instantly. There is nothing non-critical enough to deserve that.

[m3f_pbonsalb]

I'm in the midst of this decision process also gentlemen. I blew up my race car's S52 last weekend. Broke off an exhaust valve and punched a hole through the number 2 piston. Top end rebuild won't save this one this time.



2) A built S52. Could easily be upwards of $10K and more. Time crunch to have it ready by Labor day weekend could be an issue to. I like the idea of doing a solid lifter conversion but we'd be really stretching the budget and motor design.

I don't think you need solid lifters unless you are using 7600 rpm and you would need bottom end work to do that and a fancy crank damper. Maybe just Supertech or Ferrea one piece valves and new springs -- probably add about $1000 in parts.



You might also do an upgraded oil pump. At least the Achilles shaft.



If your shortblock is fine other than a bad piston, you could buy a salvage piston if you can find one for the same bore (there were apparently several S52 bores).



Certainly a built engine is nice and gives peace of mind, but you are right about the $10k if you are paying a shop. If you have the money and this is your hobby, it is probably worth it. At $10k, though I might take a look at an S54 swap instead, though if you must detune it to 240 rwhp, you can make that with an S52.

[m3f_betrezra]

Maynard - "Weighing my options, but will likely just put another salvage yard S52 in it."


I'm leaning towards the junkyard long block S52...... what kind of luck have you had with these motors? Any tips on what to buy, and what to watch out for? Or just pay and pray ?)

[m3f_bluptgm3]

I'm guessing you also need a head by the looks of that piston


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[m3f_MaynardZed]

Maynard - "Weighing my options, but will likely just put another salvage yard S52 in it."



I'm leaning towards the junkyard long block S52...... what kind of luck have you had with these motors? Any tips on what to buy, and what to watch out for? Or just pay and pray ?)

Kind of a crap shoot, but a couple of things to look for especially if you're buying something sight unseen. Two biggest things that kills these motors is 1) overheating 2) over revving (my specialty). If you can find a motor out of an automatic that's a plus and question the seller hard on the coolant system.



Letting my race shop guy find one for me. I think he found one in CA. Will probably let him do the transplant at his shop. About 10 hours labor he said. I'll take the old long block home and pull it apart here. See if anything can be saved or rebuilt as a back up.

[m3f_betrezra]

I'm finding entire auto E36 M3's with 80-150K miles for $3000-4500.


Does the math work out to by one of these.... you can drive it...... and part out/trash the bits you don't want?


Or just buy a motor? What does a sub 120K miles engine run these days?


I'm no stranger to running used stuff.... in my domestic days.... we ran junk yard 5.0 efi motors and beat them very very hard with good results. But I realize the complexity/fragile nature of the head/valve train makes this more risky >


thx for the input.

[m3f_MaynardZed]

I'm finding entire auto E36 M3's with 80-150K miles for $3000-4500.



Does the math work out to by one of these.... you can drive it...... and part out/trash the bits you don't want?



Or just buy a motor? What does a sub 120K miles engine run these days?



I'm no stranger to running used stuff.... in my domestic days.... we ran junk yard 5.0 efi motors and beat them very very hard with good results. But I realize the complexity/fragile nature of the head/valve train makes this more risky >



thx for the input.

It does make some sense if you have the room and you can find them that cheap. Seems they're a bit more now for autos maybe $4-$6K?



I'm building a '78 Trans Am that I got with no engine. I bought a '74 Grand Prix literally off of some guys front yard for $800, it had the right Pontiac engine in it. I did the top end engine rebuild myself, put better heads, cam, etc. on it. Now it's running good and sounds awesome. Much simpler engine, but I kind of learned you can't be afraid to just jump in there and do some of this stuff yourself. You'll make some mistakes and its always much more difficult than it looks like on TV, but rewarding.



775 Trans Am idle - YouTube

[m3f_roarE36M3]

I recently did the top end on my motor. 95 E36M with around 110k. I had a coolant leak on cylinder 6 that was burning off on the exhaust. No oil/coolant mixing, but decided to just pull the head and redo everything short of new valves and lifters. I had the head machined and the valves checked out. They said it was warped pretty bad. PO must have overheated the thing bc I never let it.



Anyway, if you do everything right and replace it all "while you're in there" you are looking at a good $2-3k overhaul. Probably more toward the $3k range if you are talking valves, etc. And that is without touching the bottom end.



I have good car sense, but certainly not a mechanic. If you get the help of a local enthusiast and you are up for the task it is not impossible by any means. It is just a lot of parts to account for. Put everything in zip lock bags and/or photograph your progress as you go. I did most of the work myself, but anything big that was "out of my league" I called someone in that knew what they were doing. I did it with the motor in the car, but if I had to do it again I'd yank it out. Chances are any used motor you get will need some sort of work so imo you are better off dealing with what you already have depending on miles, etc.

[m3f_Braymond141]

I recently did the top end on my motor. 95 E36M with around 110k. I had a coolant leak on cylinder 6 that was burning off on the exhaust. No oil/coolant mixing, but decided to just pull the head and redo everything short of new valves and lifters. I had the head machined and the valves checked out. They said it was warped pretty bad. PO must have overheated the thing bc I never let it.



Anyway, if you do everything right and replace it all "while you're in there" you are looking at a good $2-3k overhaul. Probably more toward the $3k range if you are talking valves, etc. And that is without touching the bottom end.



I have good car sense, but certainly not a mechanic. If you get the help of a local enthusiast and you are up for the task it is not impossible by any means. It is just a lot of parts to account for. Put everything in zip lock bags and/or photograph your progress as you go. I did most of the work myself, but anything big that was "out of my league" I called someone in that knew what they were doing. I did it with the motor in the car, but if I had to do it again I'd yank it out. Chances are any used motor you get will need some sort of work so imo you are better off dealing with what you already have depending on miles, etc.

2-3k for a head/gasket job?!?! DIY it's like $400-700 with machine shop work.

[m3f_betrezra]

I'm actually thinking about picking up a complete motor from an automatic with sub 100K miles...... then in my shop pull it all apart..... and do the works.. inspect bearings, crank, pistons, rings, head-rebuild, light p/p job, upgraded cams... flowed fuel inj...... just take my time, and go through 1 top to bottom.... w/o my car being down...... then when I'm ready or oil consumption is beyond my limit.... do the swap......