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LED is quickly becoming the new norm and finally there are OEM grade projector swaps that fit lights like the Euro Bosch. After hours of research, the Morimoto M LED seemed like the perfect fit for these lights. The goals for this project were;
-Must be completely self contained inside the headlight and wired internally off the Euro connector. NO ballasts mounted to frame rails, NO caps off or any compromises to the headlight for fitment.
-Projector must fit behind the inner lens. NO holes to drill in glass! (Yes I know this degrades the output and weakens the cutoff line)
-Must be a quality LED retrofit. NO garbage eBay H1 LED drop in bulbs with 1 million lumens (they do not work, period).
-Easy to do.
Parts Needed
-Bosch H1 Projector Euro Headlights
https://old.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e...ct=63121387041
https://old.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e...ct=63121387042
-Morimoto M LED
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/pr...rojectors.html
Start by preparing the Morimoto control unit for tear down. It is very well sealed in water-proofing foam so it takes time to scrape it all out. Use a small flat head screwdriver and just be cautious as you scrape around the PCB board and wires.
The PCB has a light strength silicone holding it to the metal box. Once you have enough of the foam out of the way you can gently pop the board free of the bond.
Keep cleaning the foam off the rest of the board.
Cut the Low and High connectors off as shown and desolder the projector wiring off the PCB. Keep the full length of the wiring.
Remove the harness from the projector and cut the end off so you can remove the wires from the sheathing. Keep the full length of the wiring.
Soldered back up and ready for install.
Projector Mods. There are two mods here that you should be doing. "Chip flip" mod and covering the projected M. Flipping the chip reduces the center hot spot in favor of more even light output throughout the whole light spread. You also want to make sure the wires are flat as some of the lights ship with the wires casting a shadow.
Remove the LED board and flip it 180 degrees. Note that when flipped the holes no longer match up.
Dremel the holes so you can properly mount the LED chip flat in the new orientation.
Remounting. Use new thermal paste (Artic Silver here)
Silhouetted Morimoto logo covered
Preparing the Bosch
Pop the covers and the front lens
Remove the inner frame
YouTube (Short URL)
Remove the projector and the plastic frame that holds it.
Modify the projector plastic frame
Dremel all this flat. I use a metal cut off wheel.
Same on the other side, dremel them off flat.
Cut these as shown.
Also notch the frame as shown below in these two photos to clearance for the high beam shutter solenoid.
Mock up the projector and mark your holes for drilling. Only two holes are required but you can do the upper holes if you want. The projector bracket should be parallel with the plastic frame bottom.
Drill size 9/64
I used a PC case fan screw to mount the projector to the frame (holds super solid if you don't oversize the drilled holes). You will also need to remove the two top screws that hold the projector lens frame on.
Remount the projector and frame to the chrome housing. The projector should look centered within the chrome frame now.
Wiring
Use high strength double sided tape to mount the module in the Bosch housing.
Low beam positive to yellow wire.
High beam shutter positive to white wire. You're just tapping off the high beam wire to activate the shutter. Keep power going to the Halogen H1 high beam bulb too.
Wire both grounds to brown.
Remount everything back into the headlight case and make sure you install the projector harness in before remounting!
All remounted and fitting just right!
Quick comparison of stock Bosch with a Halogen Osram Nightbreaker versus the M-LED conversion
YouTube (Short URL)
More details to come all installed, and aligned.
LED is quickly becoming the new norm and finally there are OEM grade projector swaps that fit lights like the Euro Bosch. After hours of research, the Morimoto M LED seemed like the perfect fit for these lights. The goals for this project were;
-Must be completely self contained inside the headlight and wired internally off the Euro connector. NO ballasts mounted to frame rails, NO caps off or any compromises to the headlight for fitment.
-Projector must fit behind the inner lens. NO holes to drill in glass! (Yes I know this degrades the output and weakens the cutoff line)
-Must be a quality LED retrofit. NO garbage eBay H1 LED drop in bulbs with 1 million lumens (they do not work, period).
-Easy to do.
Parts Needed
-Bosch H1 Projector Euro Headlights
https://old.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e...ct=63121387041
https://old.schmiedmann.com/en/bmw-e...ct=63121387042
-Morimoto M LED
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/pr...rojectors.html
Start by preparing the Morimoto control unit for tear down. It is very well sealed in water-proofing foam so it takes time to scrape it all out. Use a small flat head screwdriver and just be cautious as you scrape around the PCB board and wires.
The PCB has a light strength silicone holding it to the metal box. Once you have enough of the foam out of the way you can gently pop the board free of the bond.
Keep cleaning the foam off the rest of the board.
Cut the Low and High connectors off as shown and desolder the projector wiring off the PCB. Keep the full length of the wiring.
Remove the harness from the projector and cut the end off so you can remove the wires from the sheathing. Keep the full length of the wiring.
Soldered back up and ready for install.
Projector Mods. There are two mods here that you should be doing. "Chip flip" mod and covering the projected M. Flipping the chip reduces the center hot spot in favor of more even light output throughout the whole light spread. You also want to make sure the wires are flat as some of the lights ship with the wires casting a shadow.
Remove the LED board and flip it 180 degrees. Note that when flipped the holes no longer match up.
Dremel the holes so you can properly mount the LED chip flat in the new orientation.
Remounting. Use new thermal paste (Artic Silver here)
Silhouetted Morimoto logo covered
Preparing the Bosch
Pop the covers and the front lens
Remove the inner frame
YouTube (Short URL)
Remove the projector and the plastic frame that holds it.
Modify the projector plastic frame
Dremel all this flat. I use a metal cut off wheel.
Same on the other side, dremel them off flat.
Cut these as shown.
Also notch the frame as shown below in these two photos to clearance for the high beam shutter solenoid.
Mock up the projector and mark your holes for drilling. Only two holes are required but you can do the upper holes if you want. The projector bracket should be parallel with the plastic frame bottom.
Drill size 9/64
I used a PC case fan screw to mount the projector to the frame (holds super solid if you don't oversize the drilled holes). You will also need to remove the two top screws that hold the projector lens frame on.
Remount the projector and frame to the chrome housing. The projector should look centered within the chrome frame now.
Wiring
Use high strength double sided tape to mount the module in the Bosch housing.
Low beam positive to yellow wire.
High beam shutter positive to white wire. You're just tapping off the high beam wire to activate the shutter. Keep power going to the Halogen H1 high beam bulb too.
Wire both grounds to brown.
Remount everything back into the headlight case and make sure you install the projector harness in before remounting!
All remounted and fitting just right!
Quick comparison of stock Bosch with a Halogen Osram Nightbreaker versus the M-LED conversion
YouTube (Short URL)
More details to come all installed, and aligned.
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