Need suspension input (yes another one)

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

-1.3 on the fronts and -1.7 in the rears. I try to shoot for 36-37 psi, hot, I think.

Thanks. Didn't know it is possible to get -1.3 at the front without camber plates.

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

-1.3 on the fronts and -1.7 in the rears. I try to shoot for 36-37 psi, hot, I think.

Thanks. Didn't know it is possible to get -1.3 at the front without camber plates.

[m3f_ClutchKickChris]

I have H&R OE sport springs and koni yellow sports shocks/struts. Mostly street driven, maybe autoX 2-4 times/year. Super sport comfy but very compliant.

I run -2.5, 0 toe front, -1.8, and a small amount of toe-in rear.


You DON'T want stiff springs on a street car as streets have dips and transitions the suspension needs to comply to or you can actually lose control/traction easier.


Also IMO you need a caged car to really work stiff track coilovers correctly, if not you'll just be using the entire chassis as a big spring and possibly weakening it and getting worse performance down the line.

[m3f_SARacingE36]

Thanks. Didn't know it is possible to get -1.3 at the front without camber plates.

Flip the top mounts left side to right side, & right side to left side, and you will have -2.5 camber without camber plates on 96+ M3's. I shimmed the strut for another degree of negative camber up front, and had -3.5, which was great for street tires, without camber plates.



I vote strut & spring, Bilstein or Koni, & any progressive, performance purposed lowering spring from Eibach or H&R. As stated before, you can advance to the highest DE group, and a strut & spring setup will never hold you back. Spend the money saved on seat time, which will make the biggest difference overall. Not to mention, the additional challenge of learning to control a vehicle with massive weight transfers (dive, squat, roll) from the progressive spring setups will better prepare you for getting the most out of a proper damper setup down the line, in my experience....



Coilovers are going to require a much greater initial setup cost, (align & corner balance), and can complicate the driving experience with the "unnecessary-adjustment crutch."

[m3f_jbse39]

Flip the top mounts left side to right side, & right side to left side, and you will have -2.5 camber without camber plates on 96+ M3's. I shimmed the strut for another degree of negative camber up front, and had -3.5, which was great for street tires, without camber plates.


I vote strut & spring, Bilstein or Koni, & any progressive, performance purposed lowering spring from Eibach or H&R. As stated before, you can advance to the highest DE group, and a strut & spring setup will never hold you back. Spend the money saved on seat time, which will make the biggest difference overall. Not to mention, the additional challenge of learning to control a vehicle with massive weight transfers (dive, squat, roll) from the progressive spring setups will better prepare you for getting the most out of a proper damper setup down the line, in my experience....


Coilovers are going to require a much greater initial setup cost, (align & corner balance), and can complicate the driving experience with the "unnecessary-adjustment crutch."

This is pretty much what my mechanic, who used to be chapter's chief instructor told me. In addition, he told me to build the suspension around the tire, not the other way around. So going to coilover after you are ready for r-compound tires may be the path to take?


It is also important to understand what impact each mod has so doing many things all at once may not be the best thing to do unless your skill level is such that you can take advantage of it or exploit it fully.


With that said, proper seat makes a world of difference. I have Recaro Speed S and it is so much enjoyable and less distracting now that I am not sliding around in the seat. I do not miss vaders at all.

[m3f_DasBlitzAuto]

+1 For TC. I've ran mine a full track season last year. I'm at 450/550# springs on the double adjustable shocks. Running the settings recommended by them. Love em.

[m3f_frbz]

Presently I have Dinan supplied Konis and Dinan springs with Vorshlag camber plates in my 94 M3. 0 toe and -2.5 degree camber (which I never change) and poly offset FCA bushings (powerflex) Great turn in but still issues with tire roll over with the tire size I am using. As the car is rarely on the track now I am getting tired of the harshness on the street. What do the gurus suggest to achieve the -2.5 camber without the race style camber plates?

[m3f_bluptgm3]

Presently I have Dinan supplied Konis and Dinan springs with Vorshlag camber plates in my 94 M3. 0 toe and -2.5 degree camber (which I never change) and poly offset FCA bushings (powerflex) Great turn in but still issues with tire roll over with the tire size I am using. As the car is rarely on the track now I am getting tired of the harshness on the street. What do the gurus suggest to achieve the -2.5 camber without the race style camber plates?

1996+M3 Bearing Plates/Strut Mounts swapped left/right.


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[m3f_SARacingE36]

1996+M3 Bearing Plates/Strut Mounts swapped left/right.

That will only yield -2.5 camber, you will need to shim the strut for another degree, and -3.5 is a really good spot for street tires (200 tw). I ran this exact setup for nearly 2 years on/off track. Turner & Bimmerworld both sell kit for this if you are not comfortable sourcing your own Grade 10+ hardware.

[m3f_warez]

If budget isn’t an issue, please try Ohlins! This has been the best coilover I have tried so far!

[m3f_Hasan Shaikh]

Flip the top mounts left side to right side, & right side to left side, and you will have -2.5 camber without camber plates on 96+ M3's. I shimmed the strut for another degree of negative camber up front, and had -3.5, which was great for street tires, without camber plates.

Great. Thanks for sharing.

[m3f_matt0807]

Man, you guys are really amazing.


Ok, I think you have me convinced to save my money and just go with H&R sport w/ Bilstein, new 96+ top mounts flipped and then possibly shimmed to equal the front camber I’m running now. Anything I’m missing when reverting from aftermarket coilovers?

[m3f_SARacingE36]

You may need a slightly larger spacer up front to clear the spring perch & spring, due to the camber shims, which will move the tire closer to the strut housing.


Obviously this will be dependent on wheel offset and tire specs, but something to consider.


Also, make sure you pick up front reinforcement plates to put on top of the M3 top mounts, if you don't already have some.

[m3f_westopher]

Isn't it likely he will be able to run without spacers at all because the OE style strut housings have the spring perch sit above the tire, where coilovers have the spring/spring perch sit lower?

Shims change the equation but the tire shouldn't hit anything but the strut housing if the offset is too high/shims are too aggressive.

[m3f_Nate047]

Which Honda was that?



Also, do you mean that the clubsports are too stiff?

98 Civic track car, and what I mean is the Clubsport spring rate is a bit rough for my liking around town. It's not "comfortable" pretty much by any definition of the word. But it's good on track and on canyon roads etc...