Clutch hydraulics, difficult to put into gear, keep bleeding or replace?

[m3f_bobomb]

Hello,



Working through a clutch issue. No slippage of the actual clutch and no bearing noises what-so-ever. However, the car is difficult to put into gear.



I bled the slave cylinder (per Bentley) last night, and after it worked flawlessly. On my drive into work today it was working fine as well. I took it out on my lunch break and I noticed some minor resistance putting into gear at a stop, but chalked it up to me being overly observant. I just took it out again and now the symptoms are back:



- At a rest: with the engine running, and the car in neutral, it is very difficult to put into gear.

- While driving: I can freely shift into and out of any gears. Once I come to a rest, when I let the clutch out and try to put it into gear again it becomes difficult.

- With the engine off, I can freely slip it into and out of gears. (not linkage related)



A mechanic "looked" at it yesterday (he didn't even put it on a lift or take it for a drive) and said my clutch is bad and would do the job for $2600. I said no thank you and went home to bleed the system.



There is no sign of leaking fluid. The fluid level was full before I began the bleeding process and there are no leaks from the slave cylinder.



Is it possible I just need to bleed it some more? Or is it time to replace the clutch hydraulics?

[m3f_Braymond141]

If the clutch pedal pressure isn't changing, it is likely the mechanical side of the clutch system. The clutch wear isn't really an issue, but the guide tube, throwout bearing, clutch fork and pivot pin all control the distance the clutch moves. These are wear items and should ALWAYS be changed with every clutch job.

[m3f_bobomb]

If the clutch pedal pressure isn't changing, it is likely the mechanical side of the clutch system. The clutch wear isn't really an issue, but the guide tube, throwout bearing, clutch fork and pivot pin all control the distance the clutch moves. These are wear items and should ALWAYS be changed with every clutch job.

Thanks for the reply.



I did notice a slight difference in pedal pressue before and after bleeding... and now today it's closer to the "before" feel... It's subtle though. But it was noticeably stiffer last night after bleeding and now it is softer.



It was temporarily fixed after bleeding yesterday. It honestly felt better than ever. You still say it's mechanical though?

[m3f_Braymond141]

I would replace the clutch master and clutch slave first if you are sure there is a hydraulic pressure difference. You must replace both.

[m3f_bobomb]

I would replace the clutch master and clutch slave first if you are sure there is a hydraulic pressure difference. You must replace both.

Yeah I'm pretty positive there is a difference. Since the parts are not in stock locally I will attempt to bleed it thoroughly again tonight and then order parts.



Thanks for your help.

[m3f_Braymond141]

The system self bleeds the more you use it. You're just wasting your time with continual bleeds.


I forgot; if you have anything other than a factory clutch stop, remove that garbage. They are not good for the clutch system (for anyone else reading).

[m3f_jayjaya29]

I forgot; if you have anything other than a factory clutch stop, remove that garbage. They are not good for the hydraulic system (for anyone else reading).

Care to expand upon this?

[m3f_bobomb]

The system self bleeds the more you use it. You're just wasting your time with continual bleeds.



I forgot; if you have anything other than a factory clutch stop, remove that garbage. They are not good for the clutch system (for anyone else reading).

I'll skip the bleeding. Thanks.



Factory clutch stop is still in place.

[m3f_M3AN]

Are you using a braided clutch line?


Second place to look for engagement problems after bleeding.


https://www.turnermotorsport.com/BMW...l-clutch-lines


Don't pay $65

[m3f_NolliM3]

If he had a stiff clutch pedal and then soft, shouldn't that indicates a leak? If that's the case, fluid should be coming out the transmission weep hole or out where the master connects to the hard line...if it's the latter, it could be difficult to see...some fluid should be on the ground though!