Does Pirelli P-Zero tire need to be broken in??

[m3f_turbo///M3]

Hey guy, need help on this.

I just bought new Pirelli P-Zero asimmetrico tires 235/35/18 & 245/35/18 and i got no traction at all in the snow. This is one week before it snow. The rubber is hard, i just sit there and spin. I do 5mph and i spin 180 several time. but I have these tire before same size and I had no problem. They people at Tire Rack told me the tire need to be broken in before it work or what ever.



Is this true?? does tire need to be broken in??



Also does anyone have P-Zero on there car?



how may mile do you get out of them? The last set I got 12k on them before needing to be replaced. I don't drive my car hard or fast. I got 25k on the stock Dunlop tire. This is ****, these Pirelli cost about $200 ea. :help:

[m3f_AMPowerJ_e8f979e5cd]

All tires new tires do have to be 'broken in'. This basically just means driving some what cautiously until all the natural oils in the rubber and from the manufacturing process work there way out. This usually takes around 500 miles I believe. For traction in the snow, the snow must adhere to the tire, and with a brand new tire, this probably doesn't happen very well.



On the other hand, I wouldn't think you wouldn't get much traction in the snow with a P Zero or any high performance tire, for that matter, no matter what the condition of the tire.



Luckily in SC I don't have to worry about that too much

[m3f_ESP_5b942e8837]

like stated, all tires need somewhat of a breakin period. There is no way you should expect to get any type of traction from a Ultra High Performance tire in snow...



As for mileage I have friends that run P-Zeros, mileages, most all of em under 10K miles some as little as 4K or 5K miles.





I would look into Bridgestone SO-3s next, and a set if winter wheels and tires if you are going to try and run that beast in the snow...

[m3f_Black328iS_4f40b49a23]

my father has pirelli p-zeros on his '00 540i and i can tell you from experience that even after theyre broken in, theyre no good in the snow and ice. i have a set of P-Zeros sittin my garage for my 328iS, but im savin them for the spring

[m3f_BlkBimM3R_4c5ffa766f]

most high performance / max perf / summer tires, etc.. do not do well in the snow as they are not meaning to be all seasons or winter tires... I have dunlop SP Sport 9000's and I love them (I live in Southern CA where we only get rain and dry weather) however I was told by my friend that lives in east coast that they are downright scary in the snow because the silica compound freezes and gets hard in snow and that the compound and tread was not made to be driven in snow..



he has a set of summer tires and a set of rims w/ winter tires... that way you get the best traction depending on season.. w/ all seasons your likely going to sacrifice performance in either dry, wet or snow for a medium for it to work in all.. its better to get a set of winter tires and a set of summer... for me I live in So Cal (no snow) so I just use the SP9000's all year long...

[m3f_turbo///M3]

Thank you all for the good advice. I did notice the tire tread is very hard when it below 32 degree. That why I lost control and damage on of my wheel.



I did bought a set of 16" wheel and tire for the weather,but it doesn't fit. The mislead me, 5x120 40mm. I mount the tire,now I'm stuck with it.



Word of advice, dont buy wheel from Highline Wheels.



later,

[m3f_Rob @ UUC_baa567992b]

Originally posted by AMPowerJ

All tires new tires do have to be 'broken in'. This basically just means driving some what cautiously until all the natural oils in the rubber and from the manufacturing process work there way out.



To add just a little more detail to this, part of the manufacturing process involves coating the inside of the mold with a "release agent" so the newly-born tire is not stuck within the mold. The release agent is basically a waxy coating, and of course sticks to the tire. The initial period of time to get rid of this is not really a break-in period, but rather a wearing-off period.



For snow use, get snow tires. What is finally becoming public knowledge is that "all season" tires are inaccurately labeled; there is no such thing. At best, they are "three season" tires. Every tire that is not a dedicated snow tire becomes harder as the temperature drops - performance tires tend to be worse than "three season" tires, but the point remains.



True "snow tires" may not be great dry performers (generally mushy and unresponsiver) but are made of rubber compounds that remain pliable in sub-freezing temps. Additionally, hard-core snow tires (Blizzaks, Hakkapalitas, Alpins) have micro-cellular construction that is designed to pick up snow... after all, nothing sticks to snow better than more snow. The tire's running surface will hold snow so there is better traction.



When you drive in the snow, remember one thing: slow and steady is the key to keeping your car shiny and straight.

[m3f_turbo///M3]

wow! that good info. thank Rob.



but how long until this stuff rub off? I put about 100 mile on the P-zero than it started to snow. I was doing 5mph and my car can't keep straight. It spend 180 degree and jump a curb. Really mess up my rear rim and lower control arm.



One more thing Rob, is it true that once you replace one control arm you need to replace the other? One side is higher than the other and BMW said I need to replace the other side also. Is this BS.

thank!!:help:

[m3f_Rob @ UUC_baa567992b]

Originally posted by turbo///M3

wow! that good info. thank Rob.



but how long until this stuff rub off? I put about 100 mile on the P-zero than it started to snow. I was doing 5mph and my car can't keep straight. It spend 180 degree and jump a curb. Really mess up my rear rim and lower control arm.



There is also the factor of road surface... if it was wet, rainy, snowy the entire time, then there was not much opportunity for the release agent to wear off at all. If it were totally dry, then 500 miles should have been enough.





Originally posted by turbo///M3

One more thing Rob, is it true that once you replace one control arm you need to replace the other? One side is higher than the other and BMW said I need to replace the other side also. Is this BS.

thank!!



You really should simply for the reason that the bushings wear predictably, and having one older control arm and one fresh unit causes a situation where the two sides of the suspension do not work the same as each other. This is usually something you can feel. So the dealership is correct, you should replace both at the same time.

[m3f_PurpleM3Pursuit]

well then i guess i have to replace both control arms because i bent one all outta wack.. makes sense though..