E36 M3 - What to Buy?

[m3f_m2plus1]

Hi,

I am currently looking to buy an E36 M3. I'm in the market for 1995-1997 (possibly 98/99). Are there any significant changes that I should be aware of? What's the best year for the E36 M3?

Thanks in advance!

R

[m3f_scorp965]

Best year is 1995, check here:

http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf

[m3f_PurpleM3Pursuit]

check the FAQ's it should be in there..

[m3f_norris14]

Can someone break down the difference between a 1995 with chip/intake and a 1997 with software/intake. I'm assuming the '97 would be faster. Those would be the only mods I would make to start.



Is the '95 the best year because it's more affordable and can become as fast as the '97? Or can it actually become faster than a '97 with the right mods?



Thanks,



Brian



Best year is 1995, check here:

http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf

[m3f_scorp965]

The 1995 M3 has OBD1 emmissions, it develops the same power (240hp) as the 1997 M3 (which has a OBD2 3.2L motor), although the 3.2L has some additional low-end torque. Having test-driven both of these cars and coming off of a 325iS I preferred the feel of the 3.0L motor, but this is personal preferance.



If you intend to modify your car you will see greater gains with the same mods on a 1995 than you would on a 1997. Actual numbers would of course depend considerably on brand of chip/intake, as well as the car itself. You can take a 1997 and convert it to OBD1, but this process is illegal on street cars.

[m3f_norris14]

I just realized '95's only came as 2-doors. So much for going with the '95. I have to get a 4-door...you know, for the baby seat and everything. I guess I'll have to put up with the OBDII.

[m3f_DSK M3/4_7bd32f4682]

here are a couple of good places for basic information:

http://www.eurospeed.org/e36m3faq.pdf



http://www.bmwmregistry.com/faq.php



the '95 was the first year for the E36 M3 in the US, and it came with the 3.0L OBD I engine. the '96-'99 M3 came with the 3.2L OBD II engine. both make 240hp, but the 3.2L makes a little more torque. however, the OBD II electronics are more difficult to deal with when modifying the car. that is why the OBD I cars, even with the smaller engines, are preferred for people who do extensive mods. forced induction is when it really is nice to have an OBD I car.



two doors were available in all years, four doors were only available in '97 and '98, and the convertible was available beginning with a production date of 3/98.



any car you are thinking about buying should be checked by a good independent mechanic before purchase. it is well worth a couple hundred bucks. any seller who refuses to let a mechanic check the car over before the purchase is wasting your time. don't be afraid to walk away if something doesn't feel right.



things to watch for on the E36 M3:

-plastic water pump ('95 - '97 only?)

-worn rear shock mounts

-worn rear trailing arm bushings

-5th gear issue (stick should rest in the middle position when in neutral; if you engage 5th and then put it back in neutral, see if the stick now rests over to the right)

-worn exhaust hangers

-dash bulging above center vent ('95 only?)

-weak valve spring retainers (early '95 only)

-VANOS rattle

-bad pixels on the on-board computer

[m3f_m2plus1]

That's good info. Thanks. I'm not going to modify the engine as it is beyond my current skills. My main concern will be condition and reliability. The car will have enough power stock. I may consider a chip and exhaust down the road, but nothing major.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks for all the quick replies so far. :thumbsup:

[m3f_yasir_c06bedb897]

That's good info. Thanks. I'm not going to modify the engine as it is beyond my current skills. My main concern will be condition and reliability. The car will have enough power stock. I may consider a chip and exhaust down the road, but nothing major.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks for all the quick replies so far. :thumbsup:



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