Brembo Rotors

[m3f_romh_9db5ad5d95]

Hi. I just purchased and installed a set of brembo rotors for ($56 / piece) with bosch pads from bimmerparts.com. I immediately noticed that my car does not stop nearly as well as my stock rotors. I need to press the pedal much harder than before, and even with that, it still takes longer to brake. My guess is the following:



1) The rotors are not as good as stock ones

2) The bosch pads are terrible

3) I've only put 20 miles on it, and the rotors need a brake in period before reaching maximun efficiency.





Which one of the above is true?

Thankyou very much.

[m3f_M3AN_5f4dc0ba80]

Hi. I just purchased and installed a set of brembo rotors for ($56 / piece) with bosch pads from bimmerparts.com. I immediately noticed that my car does not stop nearly as well as my stock rotors. I need to press the pedal much harder than before, and even with that, it still takes longer to brake. My guess is the following:



1) The rotors are not as good as stock ones

2) The bosch pads are terrible

3) I've only put 20 miles on it, and the rotors need a brake in period before reaching maximun efficiency.





Which one of the above is true?

Thankyou very much.



I would think #2 and/or #3... did you bleed the fluid?

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

None of those are correct assumptions.



1)You need to bed the new pads and rotors.

2)Did you bleed the brakes? Cause when you pushed the piston back into the caliper you probably pushed a bunch of nasty fluid back into the lines. I'd flush or atleast give the brakes a good bleed.

[m3f_romh_9db5ad5d95]

I've never bled brakes before. I'll look that up and find instructions on how to do it



Thanks alot

What are the basic steps?

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

Do this:

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RE&Category_Cod e=HBP



Don't worry about sealing up the ducts.





http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/howtobleedbrakesright.htm

[m3f_romh_9db5ad5d95]

Thanks m3an and sgm3. I'll try bleeding the brakes. Hopefully that will help. There are a couple of other things to consider.

* As the days go by, I think I might notice the car braking better, but in reality I think I will just be getting used to the way it brakes.

* I am going to wait for the weekend to bleed the brakes, considering that I still have to replace the rear rotors and pads.



I just hope you're right. The reason I bought these rotors was to save some money. And they said they were stock rotors. At the dealership, they're $150 / piece. The interesting part, is that the mechanic at BMW (Fort Lauderdale) says the brakes they use, are ATE. Not Brembo. Supposedly, the pads and rotors say ATE on the packaging when they come in.



From the bleeding instructions that you provided, it seems like a straight forward task. The only problem for me is lifting all 4 wheels at once. I need to get some smaller jack stands or something. The ones I have are too tall. They never worked.

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

you don't have to get all 4 wheels up. The order goes RR,LR,RF,LF. So just jack up the rears first, bleed, then jack up the fronts, bleed.



I cannot stress how important it is to bed pads in.

[m3f_romh_9db5ad5d95]

You're right about bedding. I haven't done that yet. Is it too late to bed them properly after 100 miles of using them?



I;'m still going to try it after work.



I haven;t used the brakes much at all yet

What I don;t understand, is that the bmw mechanic friend of mine told me not to use the brakes hard for a good 200 miles. He told me not to let them heat up too much, cause I might prematurely warp the rotors.

The bedding / breaking in instructions, instruct you to do a series of repetitive brakes which seems to me places a lot of stress on new rotors. Anyway, I;m not arguing or debating, just want to get some more logic / instructions on new brakes / rotors.

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

no, you can still bed them in. I don't know why he would tell you to do that. I put new rotors and pads on and bedded them in within 10 min of being installed. No problems since then.

[m3f_romh_9db5ad5d95]

did you put the brembo's like I did? He also added, that the front's are by far more important than the rear's. He even once took off the rear brakes of a car and it braked almost the same.

Thanks again. Can;t wait to bed them in.

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

i think mine were balo's.

[m3f_Hellrotm3_5ee6359855]

what exactly is "bedding"? i know bleeding, but not bedding. I did cross drilled/slotted brembos with pads and also noticed a slight lack of braking power, although i did only drive it 2 times after then put it in storage. thanks

[m3f_M3AN_5f4dc0ba80]

what exactly is "bedding"? i know bleeding, but not bedding. I did cross drilled/slotted brembos with pads and also noticed a slight lack of braking power, although i did only drive it 2 times after then put it in storage. thanks



From AP Racing:





DISC BEDDING



All cast iron brake discs need to be bedded-in to ensure heat stabilisation and improve resistance to cracking. Cracks or even disc failure can occur during the first few heavy stops it careful bedding is not carried out.

AP Racing recommend the tollowing procedure :



If ducts are fitted they should be 75% blanked off.

Use previously bedded pads.

For a minimum of 15 Km use brakes gently at first from initially low speeds -Progressively raise speed to normal racing speed but still using gentle applications.

For the final 2 or 3 applications brakes can be used quite heavily.

If AP Racing thermal paints are used then only the Green paint (430°C) should have fully turned to white and maybe also just the Orange paint (560°C) on the outside edges of the discs during the bedding procedure.





Also see: http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/brakekit/bedding.htm

[m3f_Hellrotm3_5ee6359855]

thanks! i musta missed that!

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RE&Category_Cod e=HBP