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UUC evo3 ssk installed

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    UUC evo3 ssk installed

    Just finished installing my UUC evo3 ssk and took the car for a test drive (also first test drive at night with the HIDs in). Only one word came to mind..."WHY?!?!?!?!??!"



    As in...WHY didn't I do this sooner?? It's no wonder this is one of the first mods most people choose to do on their car. I remember one thing I loved about my integra was the shifter feel, and was sad when I got my M3 (well I wasn't really sad, but I did miss the shifting). The ssk brings back those memories, only it feels better! The HIDs also are night and day difference in the darkness...today is a happy day. Only thing left in the garage are the UUC swaybars to install...do that this weekend, then have to wait for more parts to arrive in the mail.

    #2
    Doesnt it feel so much tighter and precise? I just got mine installed too, drove it for 3 days. At first I was a little worried, it really took work to find first and 2nd, but as Ive driven it, its loosened up alot and Im liking it. It requires more work, like when Im shifting I feel like im a bit more dedicated to the shift because it requires more effort to get it in gear. Does this sound like yours too? Either way I feel alot more "as one" with the car than with the stock shifter.

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      #3
      Norlin, that is quite a list of mods coming...when did you get the M? Also, how long did the SSK take for install? Any problems?

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        #4
        I also bought a Evo3 and would like a summary of the install if you wouldnt mind, mine comes on monday!

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          #5
          Purchased the M February 2003 when my lease on my integra expired. Yah, I love modifying stuff in general, I had this cell phone and just soldered new lights onto it and all kinds of other stuff, current thing I happen to be modifying is my car and I'm loving it The ssk install took me about 2 and half hours on my own...a lot of that time was spent on the bitch clip, turned out I actually had it unclipped and just needed to rotate it off...but I thought I hadn't gotten it unclipped so never bothered trying to rotate it yet. So that took up a lot of time, then I kept going inside the house to wash off my hands. Also earlier today I sliced my finger with an exacto while installing my HIDs, so that slowed me down quite a bit. It's definately an install you could do on your own and it's not complicated as long as you take your time.

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            #6
            Hrm, summary of the install...lesse

            Popped off the shifter, pulled out all the foam and rubber stuff.

            Popped the car up on jack stands (doubled up for extra safety and wheel chocks)

            Crawled underneath, unclipped the shifter from the selector rod and seperated the two from each other (is connected with a rod which has the clip over the end of it)

            Got back in the car, took a pair of screwdrivers and rotated the cup at the bottom of the shifter clockwise, pulled up on the shifter and it came right out.

            Got back under the car, studied the drawing of the bitch clip carefully then felt around for like 15 minutes trying to get a good idea of the orientation and how I was going to attack the situation.

            Was kinda tough, so I unscrewed the four bolts of the tranny crossmember, not all the way, just about a 1/4" out so it was still holding up the tranny but the tranny came down some so I could fit my hands over better.

            There's some foam up there that makes it a tight fit, but if you push on the foam, it gives way some to give more room for your hands to get to that clip.

            Took a flathead screwdriver, lifted the bitch clip and rotated it upward.

            Then I could push the pin out that connected the carrier, scooted the carrier forward so it'd come out of the rubber condom thing at the back, and then took the carrier out.

            Attached the metal cup thing into the carrier using 6 hex screws and blue locktite.

            Put the carrier back into the condom and reapplied the pin with the bitch clip under the car.

            Plopped the bup ring thing down into the metal cup, greased up the ball on the new shifter then dropped it down.

            Didn't have a C-clip wrench, so I just stuck one side of the c-clip into the groove, then worked my way around pushing on the c-clip with a screwdriver (carefully not scratching the metal cup, dunno if it woulda mattered). Used a phillips head screwdriver into the little hole of the c-clip to pull it down into the groove.

            Hopped underneath, reattached the selector rod to the shifter with the pin and clip (removed both yellow washers, the clip wouldn't fit with either of them on)

            Reapplied the rubber and foam pieces to the shifter and drove off



            Oh, I left out putting in the delrin carrier bushings and the bushings that go on the bottom of the shifter, but they're explained in the instructions and are kinda obvious where they go, for the delrin carrier bushings, you pop out the existing rubber bushing with a screwdriver then put the two new plastic ones in.

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              #7
              thanks for the details - thinking of getting the same ssk kit for my '99. had a question about the HID upgrade tho' - any fault codes thrown by the OBD? thinking of upgrading - the HIDs on my Audi have got me spolied... TIA.

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                #8
                Some of the cars throw out a 'check headlamp' fault, some don't. You can get a 'resistor pack' online to put inbetween to fool your OBC though.

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                  #9
                  By far the best and most enjoyable mod I've done is the UUC Comp EVO3. I can honestly that driving stick has never been more fun.

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                    #10
                    Some of the cars throw out a 'check headlamp' fault, some don't. You can get a 'resistor pack' online to put inbetween to fool your OBC though.





                    Where can you get this pack and how hard is it to install? I recenetly installed some OEM clear tails and I keep getting the "tail light failure" message. Nomatter what I do I can't get rid of it!

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                      #11
                      With the HIDs install I got no OBC codes...I even ran w/o headlights plugged in to work and didn't get a code *shrug*

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                        #12
                        No OBC codes? Really? I have yet to hear of any with no OBC codes. Are you sure both are on? I didn't get the code when I had only one running.



                        That's interesting.



                        As far as the code, it's "LOW BEAM FAILURE" not "TAILLIGHT FAILURE" or "HEADLIGHT FAILURE". Have yet to see a resistor pack that works but if it does, PLEASE link it.



                        I'm DYING for this fix.

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                          #13
                          someone please link to this OBC blocker. Thanks!

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                            #14
                            The resistor pack made by hella won't work on an e36. trust me as I tried it without success. The reason why the obc throws that message is because hid lights provide less resistance than the stock halogen light. As a result the check control module reads less resistance in the circuit and thinks the low beam halogen bulb is out. I fixed this by modifying the wire for the low beam that goes to the ccm. This creates infinite resistance in the low beam circuit and fools the ccm.

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                              #15
                              The resistor pack made by hella won't work on an e36. trust me as I tried it without success. The reason why the obc throws that message is because hid lights provide less resistance than the stock halogen light. As a result the check control module reads less resistance in the circuit and thinks the low beam halogen bulb is out. I fixed this by modifying the wire for the low beam that goes to the ccm. This creates infinite resistance in the low beam circuit and fools the ccm.

                              Yes, that's correct. The HIDs each dray 35 watts, I believe, vs. the 50 watts each for the halogens. So you're drawing about 30 watts less. But since the code didn't go off when I had only ONE HID in, I assume, it only detects an error if the difference is greater than 15 watts. Maybe a resistor pack for that. I have a write up for how much ohms is needed but couldn't find a resistor for that.



                              How did you solve the problem, exactly? Wanna share the information? I have a file that also helps explain how to solve it but it requires removing the fuse box and rewiring wires to each headlight. Is that the same as your method?

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