Stock camshaft timing alignment question

[m3f_andylv]

I moneyshifted my 1995 M3 a couple of weeks ago and I'm trying to get educated on how much of the repair I want to do myself.



I plan on pulling the head myself, then have a shop with the right tools recondition the head (if not damaged too bad), and then reinstall the head myself to get the car running.

Once the head has been reconditioned how do I get the stock intake and exhaust cams back in time in relation to each other? Does BMW 11 3 240 Camshaft locking tool align the cam timing in relation to each other when it is installed? I have a Bentley manual and I didn’t see anything about this in the book so far.

[m3f_understeer.com]

There is a whole set of BMW special tools required to properly set the timing. Most important is the cam locking tool which is a machined block of aluminum (split in to two parts that bolt together) which locks the cams to time in place to time them relative to one another. The next tool is the flywheel locking pin that locks the crank at TDC. Then you have a dummy tensioner to set proper timing chain tension and a pinned handle that you use to adjust the cam sprockets when installing the VANOS unit. The final tool, one that is OFTEN overlooked, is an air line adapter used to supply pressure to test the operation and alignment of the VANOS unit before finishing the install.



All in all, it's a trick and time comsuming install with a fair amount of risk involved. If you set the cam timing incorrectly you risk bending every single valve again the first time you turn the key. Get a good manual, be careful and best of luck.

[m3f_andylv]

Understeer thanks for the feedback.



I've had my favorite BMW dealer quote the following:

11-3-240 Cam lock $310 (ouch)

11-2-300 Crank lock pin $16

11-4-230 Dummy tensioner $21.89

11-2-250 thin wall Torx E12 $27

For grand total with tax of $398 just for tools, so I'll probably rent the tools from Koalamotorsports if I decide to tackle this myself. I don't think I need the a pinned handle to moved the cam sprockets because my car was built before (8/94?). I went out and bought the Bentley manual, worth every penny.



Your comment on the air tool to check the VANOS alignment I hadn't picked up on so I'll have the part of the Bentley manual over again.



I not sure I want to do this myself, but I'm going to start working on removing the head to see what is wrong and try to get a feel for what I'm in for. I really would like to put in a used 3.2L, but I have to sell my 74 Porsche 914 before I can afford to do anything money wise right now.



I figure once I get the engine apart if I get cold feet and go the 3.2L route. I can at least show someone what is wrong internally with my screwed up 3.0L if they want it.



again thanks for your help.