I'm doing my brakes today...any final tips?

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Hey guys,



I am attempting my rotor and pad install today. Any tips that might help? I've seen a few websites and I think I'm ready.



Any thoughts or stories would be appreciated.



Thanks!

[m3f_FLi GLi]

Hey guys,



I am attempting my rotor and pad install today. Any tips that might help? I've seen a few websites and I think I'm ready.



Any thoughts or stories would be appreciated.



Thanks!



Astan,



I have not done brakes on my M yet, so my advice might not apply.



That being said...on my VWs they use a little philips head retaining screw to hold the front rotors in place so it is easier to line up the wheels/lug nuts. Those can be a royal PITA!! The last brake job I did on my Passat I had to spend 45 min. a side drilling out those stupid screws :ratatat: .



I don't know if BMW uses said screw, but if they do, there is a good chance it will be in there good, you will strip it, and you will have to drill it out. So it might be good to have a 1/2" drill bit and a corded drill around (you can use a cordless, but it sucks the juice out of your battery quick).



HTH,



FLi



PS - I would also use anti-sieze on any bolts so you can get things apart next time you need to do brakes.

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Thanks for the tips man!



I'll watch for any ridiculous screws and keep you posted.

[m3f_97BLKM3COU_0f375e15e2]

I do believe that there are some allen retaining screws in there. As stated above, use some anti size on the back of the rotors too so you can get them off next time.



From what I hear, you have to whack them pretty hard to get them off of the car as they tend to rust to the wheel hub.

[m3f_FLi GLi]

Any thoughts or stories would be appreciated.



Astan,



Something else I thought of. This might be stating the obvious, but I'll say it anyway. Make sure you support the caliper in some manner (extra jack stand, use wire to suspend it, etc.). You don't want the caliper to hang free on the brake line because it causes undue stress on the brake lines. They are not meant to support the weight of a caliper.



With those couple nuggest of, I guess you could call them wisdom, you should be A-OK!!! :beer:





FLi



PS - I recommend you enjoy the frosty beverage aftercompleting the brake work

[m3f_M3fun43]

PUMP your brakes when you are done before driving, simple but many forget and crash.

[m3f_sameguy]

Never having done a break job before I was a little freaked, but was sure I wasn't going to pay $1250 for $300 worth of parts. I printed out the pages from this site

http://hock.net/m-brake-pads-intro.php

Pretty basic info, and well put together. You may want to have a breaker bar and some good penitrating oil. I have been told that if penitrating oil doesn't seem to be doing it, you can heat the area with a hair dryer to help the oil penitrate. Be aware that most penitrating oil is very flammable. didn't have to do it on my brakes, but there were some tight ones for sure. the link I send also has info on torque when putting things back together. Good luck, be ready to get real dirty.

[m3f_97BLKM3COU_0f375e15e2]

That is a great site and I will use the same when doing mine.



Astan, are you doing the brake job because your pads are worn out? My car seems to have the original rotors still at 70,000 miles and aside from having a small lip, they seem fine. They will be replaced when the pads wear down.



Did you get OEM rotors or something else?

[m3f_Max M3]

My tip du jour: Remember to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before you start to relieve pressure on the pads.





Okay Tip #2: There is a 7mm hex screw holding the rotor on... This will be well-rusted and if you don't want to waste time drilling it out, I suggest you get yourself a Sears Impact Driver and a 7mm hex bit. It is unlikely to come out any other way.



Tip #3: Use anti-seize on EVERY bolt you put back in!!! ALWAYS!

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

I have 64k miles and I just said hell with it. One of the BMW techs looked at my pads and said I'd be good til summer or so but just keep watching them. I figure that I won't own this car for another 70k miles, so I just bought the shebang now. OEM rotors (I'm not that hardcore that I need euros) and hawk hps pads. I figure that the pads will be nice for auto-x.



Again...thanks for the super n00b tips like pump brakes and remove master cylinder cap. I have a pretty experienced friend helping, but I didn't know any of this! In case he forgets or doesn't know, I'll point this stuff out.

[m3f_FLi GLi]

My tip du jour: Remember to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before you start to relieve pressure on the pads.





I don't know if this is the same with BWMs or not, but on VWs you have to push the piston back in so the caliper will fit over the new, thicker brake pads.



I've found the appropriate sized C clamp works VERY WELL for pushing the piston back in.



FLi

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

That site is excellent by the way! I printed out all the pages. I figure the money I'm saving on this can pay for more ink cartridges.

[m3f_salty_80d4b8491b]

I'd also wash everything down with brake cleaner before you start so you don't end up breathing all that dust with What??? in it.



I use brake slider lube rather than anti seize on the caliper sliding surfaces.

When you push the pedal on new brakes it will be very satisfying. Also remember to clean the new rotors thoroughly before re -assembly

[m3f_Sirius_880bd69485]

Take a scratch pad to the rotor surface before you use them (clean them). I forgot and when I got back from bedding the brakes, there was alot of smoke billownig of of the rotors

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

oh jeez...scratch pad? Like how rough...something metallic? Like Steel wool stuff?