Well...the brake job wasn't completely successful.

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Ok, so here goes:



The goal today was all 4 brakes, we actually only got 1 on successfully.



These bolts were really really in there and we had to find a 1 meter bar to get enough torque to undo them.



I think we have the procedure down no prob, but there is this funny ticking noise now. Like, once I go over 20, there is a definant tick tick tick sound that gets faster the faster I go.



I starting bedding the brakes, but since I only had one side in, I didn't want to go through with the whole thing yet. I just did some moderate stops from 40. The sound does go away when I even apply the lightest pressure to the brakes. Any thoughts?



Will that sound go away as the pad gets worn in?

[m3f_Fishey]

Did you Tq the wheel to proper spec after doing brakes (sounds dumb but it happens) that would make a Tick Tick Tick... and does stop when brakes are applied

[m3f_96BmwCosmo_c44c0f570d]

hey does your car tick no matter what like if your coasting and its in neutral, with or with out the brakes? becasue my car does the same thing the slower i go the louder the ticking feeling is the faster i go it goes away but my brakes feel fine when braking same thing or different?

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

hmm, i just swapped my race pads in and have no sounds. Don't bed them in till you have everything in. Which bolts did you have a problem with? The carrier bolts? I think those are tq'd to 80 ft lbs.

[m3f_Sirius_880bd69485]

Eh, sorry to hear that aston, when I was doing my brakes I had to hang on my ratchet to get thoes damn bolts undone lol.

[m3f_findley]

You probably know all of this but, it sounds like something is barely dragging on the rotor and something isn't 100% true/round. To diagnose, remove your wheel and spin the rotor as fast as you can with your hands. You should be able to figure out what is dragging. If not, have a buddy listen while you spin and vice versa.



If its a non-spinning part that rubs, you can make sure by putting a screw driver to the part making the rub (pointed end) and the handle end to your ear to act as a stethoscope.



Legal Disclaimer: Don't put your body between the rotor and wheel well or under the rotor unless properly supported and with a backup.



Good luck.

F

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Thanks guys...we're going to tackle it again tomorrow.



I thought the carrier bolt was supposed to be torqued to 50 ft-lb. That's what the directions I had said.



They were crazy hard to get off! We tried standing on the rachet and it wasn't enough.



This just gets louder and faster as I continue accelerating. IT doesn't seem to matter coasting or not. As soon as I touch the brakes, it goes away.



I might have done something stupid like not secured the brake sensor well enough or didn't reinstall the "anti rattle" clip right. who knows.



Any thoughts on the torque spec of the Carrier Bolts though?







I'll keep people posted.

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/brakes/index.htm



Oh CRAP! I just found what my problem is. The 50 ft-lb is for the rear!!!!!! The front is 81!



Thanks guys! I love these forums.

[m3f_Sirius_880bd69485]

Hehehe. I forgot to install the antirattle clip before I bedded the brakes and came back and found it cleaning up the shop... uhhh whoops?



And now that I think of it, I think it would be best to invest in a torque ratchet in the near future....

[m3f_mgambini]

The caliper bolts can best be removed by first soaking with penetrating oil(tap gently with a hammer to get it to wick thru the joint), then putting the socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar, and hitting the end with a hammer. The shock is what breaks them free. An air impact wrench works well but can only get to the lower one because of clearances. BMW brakes are the easiest brakes to work on of all the cars I've worked on. Probably can do a whole set including rotors in about 2 hrs now. A torque clicking ratchet wrench is a real good investment. Also, make sure you put the anti-squeal goo on the back of the pads.

MikeG

[m3f_97BLKM3COU_0f375e15e2]

Well, any luck with the other 3 rotors?

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Sorry for the no update guys, but pretty much we finished off the other front rotor and pad, but didn't have time for the rears. Then we went straight to buffalo for auto-x (after proper bedding of course).



I think we might have the stealer do the rears because I don't know how we're going to fit any kind of tool in to remove the rear carrier bolts-penetrating oil or not.



The front brakes would have been sooooo easy if we knew what we know now. Aside from that, our tools apparently are not good enough for BMW's. My lug nuts bent a tire iron and snapped two rachets. It was amazing.



Somehow we also broke a C clamp. I highly recommend owning expensive tools so you don't have to stop 4 times during your brake job to get new, better ones.



The novice school was amazing and I thought I did pretty well considering I was a total N00b. I'll post about it soon.

[m3f_genner21_b0df9c1cac]

how did u get rid of the sound?? I'm doing brakes pretty soon. They are actually getting shipped. So can u go over with me one last time what is it that u need.

[m3f_Sirius_880bd69485]

The rear carrier bolts should be easier to get off than the front....



I went ahead and bought alan wrench accessories for my ratchets, which helped alot. But I still resulted to using normal alan wrenches one of the front carrier bolts.



Having access to a lift is a major plus too...

[m3f_astan100_7ef66fbe89]

Yeah, I think it would be hard to get a braker bar in there without a lift. I don't mind paying a mech. to do the rears. I heard I might have to undo the rear shocks to access some of the bolts anyway.