Purchase Advice: 1994 - 1997 M3

[m3f_Hal]

Hi all,



I am looking at purchasing a 1994-97 M3 in Canada - am currently finishing up grad school and feel like rewarding myself once I get that darn thesis out of the way!



Anyways, I am completely new to BMW. I have searched several of the M3-related forums and read the excellent FAQ from Eurospeed, and have noted the potential problems mentioned - water pump, radiator, RTABS, etc., as well as the differences between 1995 and later motels (OBD I vs OBD II). I am still having some difficulty in synthesizing all of this information into a buying decision though!



So, I would appreciate specific recommendations on the following. The cars I have seen advertised that would fit my budget are:



- 1994 Euro-spec w/ 50,000 miles

- 1995 w/ 50,000 miles

- 1997 w/ 25,000 miles



The '97 would be a stretch, but maybe worthwhile w/ lower mileage ? I gather the '95 would be easier to mod, but I am not really interested in mods - stock would be just fine with me.



I am a novice home mechanic (mechanically inclined, mech. eng. degree, not a lot of experience though), would be using the car frequently (daily driver in summer) but not intensely (no track time). From what I have read, the car is pretty solid as long as preventive maintenance is taken care of. The only thing that really scares me is the potential for a massive bill at some point for a catastrophic failure e.g. $10K, as my income would be hard-pressed to handle that for the next 2-3 years until I get established. I am thus looking for suggestions on which of the above might be most appropriate for me.



Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and thanks to all moderators and members for posting such excellent information!



Cheers,

Hal

[m3f_KUpolo]

Have you checked out our FAQ section yet? There is a wealth of threads on this specific topic.



http://216.118.109.8/m3forum/showthread.php?t=17582

[m3f_Bimmer98M3]

I would go with the 97 because it has the bigger engine which will mean more power without moding. 50,000 miles is not a lot in a BMW, what matters is who has owned it before you and how well they treated it. Take it for a test drive with them, ask if they autocrossed, and how clean it is. The cleaner, the more they cared about it, and the better care they took of it.

[m3f_KUpolo]

I would go with the 97 because it has the bigger engine which will mean more power without moding. 50,000 miles is not a lot in a BMW, what matters is who has owned it before you and how well they treated it. Take it for a test drive with them, ask if they autocrossed, and how clean it is. The cleaner, the more they cared about it, and the better care they took of it.



Actually, if he gets a '94 euro spec it will have 286 hp versus 240 hp obd I in the '95 and 240 hp obd II in the 97.



The displacement in the 97 is offset by the engine management system versus the 95. Power is equal.



If power is what he is looking for, then getting the '94 is the way to go without question. However, it may not be as easily serviced in Canada as one of the the other options.

[m3f_salty_80d4b8491b]

The Euro spec is an extremely rare car in Canada. I believe there are only 65 in the Country and none in the US. (This was a Swedish spec car BTW). As for servicing it, not a lot available engine wise on this side of the pond. In real world terms the car is not faster than a US spec car 0-60 because the torque is lower down on the US spec car. The Euro will wind out higher though, and probably make nicer sounds doing it. Upside is that it is a rare collectible, especially if it is ever legal to import to the US. Overall, I would expect the simple, less stressed US car cheaper to run, and just a hunch, maybe longer lasting.

I bought my M3 in the US, as the choice was much better and the price seemed lower from my research. They are easy to import, as all you will need to make it legal is Daytime running lights and an infant restraint kit. You will pay 6% duty, GST/PSt and some other charges. I got a bit of a break on the duty, as the bok value was charged in Cdn. The dealer can hook up the DRL's in one hour. Whatever you buy, get it checked out at a dealer or competent service provider. This wil be the best money you spend.

[m3f_KUpolo]

The Euro spec is an extremely rare car in Canada. I believe there are only 65 in the Country and none in the US.



People have brought euro specs to the US. They are just few and far between.

[m3f_salty_80d4b8491b]

People have brought euro specs to the US. They are just few and far between.



I was not aware you could import a Euro. I just assumed that people imported a Euro engine and got it by the State tail pipe sniffers by confusing them with all those intake butterflies.



BTW, is that you skiing? If so , very nice. Will be going skiing for three days this weekend in the rockies...can't wait.

[m3f_KUpolo]

I was not aware you could import a Euro. I just assumed that people imported a Euro engine and got it by the State tail pipe sniffers by confusing them with all those intake butterflies.



BTW, is that you skiing? If so , very nice. Will be going skiing for three days this weekend in the rockies...can't wait.



Sure, you can import anything you want. It's just a matter of how much $ you have



Emmissions laws vary from state to state. Some states do not require a test at all.



I wish I could take credit for the skiing picture, but I can't. That's world champ bumps skier, Jeremy Bloom.

[m3f_salty_80d4b8491b]

Posts: 1,185









<<Sure, you can import anything you want. It's just a matter of how much $ you have>>



I wish that were the case in Canada. Our Government will only let us import cars from a specific list. 2001 Audi RS6 Nein... or is that Nyet. Same for a e36 M3 Convertible as well as a Mitsu Evo. Government says no way, no how ....just not eligible. Very sad.

[m3f_'96 E36 M3]

If your budget can afford it, I'd recommend going with the '97. Lower miles, even on a BMW, are very important. I agree with Bimmer98M3 in that how the owner put on those miles is a more important question.



Having recently bought a '96 M3 I can say that 4 of the 5 cars I tested would exhibit varying degrees of vibration through the steering wheel at highway speeds. These vibrations were not evident during normal street driving so it is key you are able to get these vehicles up to speed. Problems could have ranged from old tires, poor alignment, suspension problems, or even wheel problems. With the exceptoin of the alignment which will run you < $200 at the dealership, the other problems are more expensive to remedy.



Good luck, and post some picks when you do pick it up!

[m3f_M3AN_5f4dc0ba80]

There's no question in my mind. The Euro '94 is the best car in that line up.



<Don't read further if you're not going to like my obvious explanation>



The 94 is a purpose built car from the ground up. More stressed? Yes, but far, far higher tolerances make it as reliable if not more so that the later cars on your list. It's hand built and has millions of successful competition miles on many, many tracks.



You start with (a conservative) 286hp as opposed to (a very conservative it would appear) 240hp, no competition IMHO. You just saved lots of $$$ on mods.



You also get a stiffer chassis, slightly better suspension, high revving engine that sounds great and the prestige of owning an even less accessible car. The origin of the car will be a talking point in itself.



Seriously man, they're quite different cars aside from how they look and I think you'll be missing a very good opportunity if you go any other way.



You would need to get most of your parts from Europe though which would be a consideration.



How much they're asking for each would help us...