Suspension Setups

[m3f_CosmoM]

I'm thinking of running some H&R sport springs, but not sure of which shocks to pair them with. I've heard Koni or Bilstein. Which would you recommend? Would I need camber plates with this setup to ensure even tire wear?



Also, I don't want the rear to drop much lower than it is, maybe .75 inch, but the front could use a good inch and a half. Any way to prevent the rear from drooping so low?



Thanks.



The only reason to get camber plates is if you WANT uneven tire wear.



In other words the benfit of camber plates is that they let you dial in even more (up to -3.5 degrees) negative camber. In stock form I believe you can get up to -2 degrees of camber.



With the mild drop you are looking for you won't need plates.



Can't help you on the struts as I'm trying figure that out as well.

[m3f_iNcUbUs_21_0bcd67a730]

Oh ok...I was under the impression the camber plates helped the tires wear evenly under the load of the lower stance. Ya learn something new every day.



It's not that I'm looking for a "mild" drop, I'm just looking for an even drop. I've seen pictures of E36's where the rear fender sits way down over the top of the rear tire and the front fender matches perfectly with the top of the front tire. It looks terrible. I'm just trying to find a low, aggressive stance and at the same time keeping the front and rear relatively even.

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

I've read somewhere that the ltw bar only fits on cars w/out ACS+T. Do you know if that's the case?



Do you have the ltw crossbars for the underside of your M?



questions, questions,....



That is true, the oem ltw bar only fits non ASC cars. But you can take your ASC out, I did.



I do have an x-brace. Its a really good piece.

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

I'm thinking of running some H&R sport springs, but not sure of which shocks to pair them with. I've heard Koni or Bilstein. Which would you recommend? Would I need camber plates with this setup to ensure even tire wear?



Also, I don't want the rear to drop much lower than it is, maybe .75 inch, but the front could use a good inch and a half. Any way to prevent the rear from drooping so low?



Thanks.



CosmoM is correct, you only add camber plates to increase negative camber. Even with hr sports, i only had -1.5 degrees.



I would use koni's. I'm a big fan of koni's, all my setups have had them.



You can use thicker spring pads in the rear to raise the car back up if its dropped too much for you. They come in 5mm, 7.5, and 10mm.

[m3f_iNcUbUs_21_0bcd67a730]

Where can I pick up some spring pads? How do they install, and can I do it myself?

[m3f_SG_M3_d1201712b5]

The dealer has them. They just go on either side of your rear springs. When you take your rear springs out, you will see them. You can stack 2 of them on each side if you need more height. Yes its a very easy DIY.

[m3f_iNcUbUs_21_0bcd67a730]

Cool, thanks.

[m3f_Realhotguy_80d06ef0ad]

I have the Dinan stage 3 suspension kit----Performance Spring Set; Koni Adjustable Struts and Shocks; 22mm Adjustable Front Anti-roll Bar; 22mm Adjustable Front and Rear Anti-roll Bars; Front Camber Plates.I like this set up a lot. I think it's the best M on turns.

[m3f_Realhotguy_80d06ef0ad]

oh i forgot i also have an x-brace

[m3f_CosmoM]

I have the Dinan stage 3 suspension kit----Performance Spring Set; Koni Adjustable Struts and Shocks; 22mm Adjustable Front Anti-roll Bar; 22mm Adjustable Front and Rear Anti-roll Bars; Front Camber Plates.I like this set up a lot. I think it's the best M on turns.





Are both Dinan bars only 22mm?



The Racing Dynamics bars that TCKline sells are 27mm front and 22mm rear.

[m3f_euro4life_96803de2d5]

It's not that I'm looking for a "mild" drop, I'm just looking for an even drop. I've seen pictures of E36's where the rear fender sits way down over the top of the rear tire and the front fender matches perfectly with the top of the front tire. It looks terrible. I'm just trying to find a low, aggressive stance and at the same time keeping the front and rear relatively even.

FYI,



The reason the rear sits lower is because the rear fender is cut lower than the front. When you have equal amounts of tire to fender clearance in the front and back, the car has rake. (Meaning the front is lower than the rear) Rake causes increased understeer characteristics due to it putting more weight in the front of the car.

[m3f_AlanColes]

I'm running:

- GC front strut housings with Koni Sport Adj. inserts and Eiback Pro-Kit springs



- GC Camber Plates



- Koni Sport Adj. rear shocks with Eibach Pro-Kit springs and GC Rear Shock Mounts



- RTRS bushings throughout



- Racing Dynamics adjustable 27mm front and 22 mm rear bars.



- Turner Motorsports Rear Sway Bar Reinforcement Kit (good idea with the stock bar let alone aftermarket)



Jay Mooris (founder/owner - GC) actually put this setup together for the car as a "Gentleman Racer's setup". I added the RD bars and TMS reinforcement when testing determined that there was more front bar required to reduce understeer.



The car is extremely neutral and has very high cornering limits, even in the rain. It's good on the street/highway and only slightly harsh in town but my kidneys aren't in any danger as they were in previous cars. I drove it 2,400+ miles in 3 days four months ago and no complaints.



In the hands of a National level Solo II driver (trophied at Topeka) it has virtually tied the new Lotus Elise on a tight Autocross course (which should favour the Elise) and that was before the sway bars! Both cars ran 38:xxx laps with the same driver while the new Vette Z06 ran a 40:xxx best lap. The Vette is at a real disadvantage on a tight course and the Vette was running stock rubber vs the AO32's on my M3 and AO48's on the Elise.



I've just started Solo II (my background is club racing motorcycles, Racing Schools, Track Days, and BMW Advanced Driving Schools) so it will take me some time to become proficient in the finer skills required for Solo II, but my car did beat an FDT of 72:7xx seconds with a 66.xxx run by my friend who had set FTD and that was only his first time behind the wheel of my car and his second run. His first run beat his FDT with a 72:6xx. So the setup works.



I'm trying to make it to the track this weekend for a Drivng School/Lapping Day that's just been announced at the last minute, and run it agains an original 427 Shelby Cobra and 1966 Ford GT 40 !!!



Regards, Alan