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Best TOOLS for are M3's 95-99

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    #16
    What are the special tools needed to do a proper brake job. I want to replace, the rotors, calipers, hoses, pads, and fluid.



    I currently have a Motive Products one-man bleed setup for the Rx7. This apparatus works out nicely. http://www.motiveproducts.com/



    I'll need to buy another one special for the M3, I guess?



    Also what jack and jack stands do you recommend for properly lifting the car, and supporting it without damage to the underbody?



    Thanks for your replies!

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      #17
      Elmers glue, Scotch tape, bubble gum, and shoe laces is all you really need. :chair: :takecover :chair:

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        #18
        Don't forget about the duct tape.

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          #19
          Anyone ever look into those inlatable bags for lifting the car high enough to get the floor jack under the front? I've seen them used on RV's, a friend of mine said them make smaller ones we could probably use.

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            #20
            7 mm. Wouldn't you know I have almost every tool known to mankind but found I have no 7 mm allen wrench or 7 mm socket or 7 mm combination wrench. Just did my M3 brakes - new floating rotors, Axxis Ultimate pads, braided lines, G2 caliper paint, ATE Blue fluid - the works. And ... M3 brakes need 7 mm everything! Had to go to the local Ace Hardware covered in grease and brake fluid to get 'em. Get a brake line wrench - forget the size. M3 uses two sizes - had to use an adjustable and came close to rounding a nut off.



            Amazing how easy everything went, though. Soak caliper mounting bolts and brake line connections with penetrating oil the night before. The hardest part was jacking the car up high enough for stands. Took almost an hour! Brakes bled perfect the first time just by pumping the pedal. Great to see the fluid change from old to new blue. ATE highly recommended. Brakes work great. Also, need anti-seize, brake caliper grease, brake cleaner and zip ties. Go for it!



            Glenn

            Phoenix, AZ

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              #21
              7 mm. Wouldn't you know I have almost every tool known to mankind but found I have no 7 mm allen wrench or 7 mm socket or 7 mm combination wrench. Just did my M3 brakes - new floating rotors, Axxis Ultimate pads, braided lines, G2 caliper paint, ATE Blue fluid - the works. And ... M3 brakes need 7 mm everything! Had to go to the local Ace Hardware covered in grease and brake fluid to get 'em. Get a brake line wrench - forget the size. M3 uses two sizes - had to use an adjustable and came close to rounding a nut off.



              Amazing how easy everything went, though. Soak caliper mounting bolts and brake line connections with penetrating oil the night before. The hardest part was jacking the car up high enough for stands. Took almost an hour! Brakes bled perfect the first time just by pumping the pedal. Great to see the fluid change from old to new blue. ATE highly recommended. Brakes work great. Also, need anti-seize, brake caliper grease, brake cleaner and zip ties. Go for it!



              Glenn

              Phoenix, AZGlenn, thanks for the reply. I'll check on my 7-mm wrench set. Did you mean bleeder screw wrench? Perhaps that's a 7-mm also? Yes, I've made my share of parts store runs while underneath the Rx7. Luckily there's an AutoZone and ACE, just minutes from me. Glad to have a parts running car, Saturn SL2 LOL.



              It's interesting that the E36 only has single piston calipers all the way around. My Rx7 has huge '99 Japan-spec four piston front calipers and beefy rotors (on par with E36 Brembo upgrade); calipers are quick-pad-change type--no need to remove caliper to change pads (simple as making toast) LOL. The Rx7's rears have the single-piston calipers, similar to E36; and caliper must be removed to change pads. I have a piston collapsing tool for the Rx7's rear calipers.



              Is there a similar piston collapsing tool for the E36?. I guess one could use a C-clamp, but that's probably not the best way to collapse the E36 brake piston?



              Do you have any recommendations on proper floor jacks and jack stands? My floor jacks and stands don't have flat plates on them? I was checking out the Pelican Parts tech articles. They recommend using a jacking plate adapter for you floor jack cup (Pelican Parts sells them). You'd use the jacking holes on the sides of your E36, and once you got the car up to desired height, you'd place the jackstands underneath jacking points (remove lift pad covers first, presumably) at the underbody, where the jacking holes are?



              Pelican Parts tech article suggests using the rear diff as a solid jacking point for raising the rear of the car. Could you use the E36's front subframe for jacking the front of the car? Much easier. You get the car up on stands in half an hour vs a full hour LOL.

              Comment


                #22
                Yes - even the bleeder screw is 7mm. The allen bolt sliders are 7mm.



                I used my inexpensive 20 year old jack stands on the lowest setting with a 1x4 wood pad on top to spread the load. Located all jack stands at the proper support points. Used a smallish, 2 ton floor jack with wood pad to lift the vehicle - rear, on the differential - had to elevate waaaaaay up, the rear tires kept drooping and drooping - the floor jack was almost maxxed out and creaking - just a tad apprehensive. On the front, once again used a long 1x4 wood pad and lifted just adjacent to the front support points to fit the jack stands spot on. Car is very stiff - jacking a front side actually lifts the rear off its jack stand. One hour by the time I was confident the car was very secure. Now, have to do it all over soon for new shocks and struts. Maybe do the front first next time.



                If I ever build my 3rd car bay, it will have a higher ceiling and a lift.



                The e36 floating calipers are pretty darn ugly things. After a thorough scrubbing, we used blue G2 caliper paint and even painted the large anti-rattle springs that are clearly visable on the caliper face. Have a buddy help paint, 2 calipers, 2 floaters and 2 anti-rattle springs each, turn the house A/C down to 70 degrees and work fast before the paint coagulates and becomes unusable - my paint lasted only two hours before becoming goo - but that was in the final touch-up stage. If I worked alone, I never would have made it. They do look excellent painted, however, the tight spoking of M3 wheels does not show them off very well. (thank goodness). If you intend to have your brakes this far apart and are a quasi-perfectionist, then the extra painting effort is worth it - add one day to schedule. G2 available on eBay. Piston collapsing tool - a huge screwdriver on the vehicle and a hammer handle off vehicle. They move easy.

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                  #23
                  Glen,



                  Yes, I have similar situations with floor jacks. I have two 2.5-ton, and one 1.5-ton floor jacks. They're small. I use them for my 2500-lb Saturn SL2 and 2750-lb Rx7 R1. The bimmer M3 is the heaviest car in the fleet LOL. I was thinking of buying a heavy duty large floor jack. These have larger cups that will accept the VPD/Pelican Parts jack plate adapters? I'm planning to go with Pelican Parts Basic Rebuild Kit for E36 M3 for $320. It includes pads, rotors, sensors. Sounds like a good deal. I assume these are OEM parts? Also how did you compress the caliper pistons? Is there a special caliper piston compressor tool?

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                    #24
                    ALWAYS jack your car up at the 4 jack points only and make sure your mechanic if not BMW knows this is a must.

                    Tools, 7mm allen, 10 mm , 12 mm

                    and everyone needs a 36mm 12 point socket for those who need to remove the axle nuts and a 33 mm for the fan nut, :eek2: . Oh yea and try to find a 14mm allen socket for the rear diff and trans drain and fill plugs.

                    Lar

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                      #25
                      Craftsman is the way to go. No hassel warranty, just take it in and swap it for a new one, that simple. Unlike Snap-On or Matco, you won't have to wait around for them to come by.



                      Focus on Metric tools: Wrenches 8mm to 22mm, Sockets same size, Socket Accessories like extensions, u-joint adapter, crows feet, Allen Head sockets, Torx, and a few 3 socket wrenches a stubby, an extended handel, and a normal size. A torque wrench would also be a good idea. A good set of Philips and sloted screw drivers.



                      The cheapest way to get most of the things you'll need to start out is to purchased one of the Craftman tool kits (100 piece, 200 piece, etc.) What ever you can afford.

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                        #26
                        The Pelican Parts Brake Wizard makes things easy.



                        http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/wizards/parts_wizard.cgi?wizard_root=BMW_E36_Brake_Wizard



                        The code scan reset tool is also a must! http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/BMWM/POR_BMWM_TOOLS1_pg1.htm



                        Bavarian Autosport wishlist: Bentley Service manual and factory M Double Spoke II 8.5 wide wheels. http://www.bavarianautosport.com/

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